Trailer brakes

[nzfisher]

Just recently returned from the Roche Harbor rendezvous. Had a great time with Fluid motion and suppliers exceeding expectations yet again- particularly pleased with Garmin extra efforts. As usual I towed the empty as I could make it R25sc back from the San Juan's to Corvallis Oregon on Highway five in the middle of the night- too scary for me to do it in the daytime. I noticed that the brakes on the steel frame dual axel easy loader trailer were lurching unevenly when applied. So on the way back I applied the brakes several times on a little used road to see if I could learn anything. After doing this I measured the hub temperature with a laser Thermometer to see if I could tell anything about the application of the brakes. Sure enough there was a big disparity in temperature of hubs. Reading from front to back on the port side, front tire was 200 rear tire was 142- starboard side was front to back 104 with rear tire being 144. Wondering if anyone else has checked this and what if any changes, repairs, maintenance they have attempted to have better functionality of brakes. Typically without brakes being applied hubs are 90-110. Was hoping to trailer to lake Powell but not with brakes like this-

 

[scross]

Have electric over hydraulic on our trailer and big disc rotors. Typically see 95-105 degrees on hubs after gently stopping from freeway speeds to gas up. Anything hotter would make me nervous too.

 

[NorthernFocus]

I've had two different trailers and two different boats over the past 15 years. Exclusively salt water service on both. Brakes have been a constant headache. When they're working right I've not seen the differences in temperatures that you describe. The most common problem and the one that tends to happen first in salt water service it the pads/calipers getting rusted/gunked up and sticking. Even on the brakes that are advertised as stainless the carriers for the disc pads may be carbon steel. They tend to be one of the first things to go. Once they get rusty things start getting sticky.

I finally got tired enough of working on brakes every spring that this year I replaced mine with Kodiak all stainless rotors, calipers, and brackets. Double the cost of the plated version. I verified that the pad/disc carriers are also ss. Even the hoses have stainless tubing ends with brass fittings. Unfortunately I won't be able to report until next spring whether it was worth it.

 

[scross]

What Dan said ++
Back in 2006, after trailering a new to me 24 ft boat from Houston to Denver, my first upgrade on the rig was to replace the surge drum brakes on the tandem aluminum trailer with Kodiak electric over hydraulic disc brakes. On that trip in April I was stuck for 12 hours in a blizzard 60 miles from home. The surge drum brakes just didn't cut it in wet, cold and slushy conditions.
Don't think I went all SS like Dan did on my conversion but I should have! The conversion cost about $800 back then.

 

[nzfisher]

I've had two different trailers and two different boats over the past 15 years. Exclusively salt water service on both. Brakes have been a constant headache. When they're working right I've not seen the differences in temperatures that you describe. The most common problem and the one that tends to happen first in salt water service it the pads/calipers getting rusted/gunked up and sticking. Even on the brakes that are advertised as stainless the carriers for the disc pads may be carbon steel. They tend to be one of the first things to go. Once they get rusty things start getting sticky.

I finally got tired enough of working on brakes every spring that this year I replaced mine with Kodiak all stainless rotors, calipers, and brackets. Double the cost of the plated version. I verified that the pad/disc carriers are also ss. Even the hoses have stainless tubing ends with brass fittings. Unfortunately I won't be able to report until next spring whether it was worth it.

Thanks for that. Will research the Kodak solution.

 

[knotflying]

Chiming in here as well. I replaced my standard disc brakes with the Kodiak Stainless as well. The best thing I did.

 

[nzfisher]

I've had two different trailers and two different boats over the past 15 years. Exclusively salt water service on both. Brakes have been a constant headache. When they're working right I've not seen the differences in temperatures that you describe. The most common problem and the one that tends to happen first in salt water service it the pads/calipers getting rusted/gunked up and sticking. Even on the brakes that are advertised as stainless the carriers for the disc pads may be carbon steel. They tend to be one of the first things to go. Once they get rusty things start getting sticky.

I finally got tired enough of working on brakes every spring that this year I replaced mine with Kodiak all stainless rotors, calipers, and brackets. Double the cost of the plated version. I verified that the pad/disc carriers are also ss. Even the hoses have stainless tubing ends with brass fittings. Unfortunately I won't be able to report until next spring whether it was worth it.

So is the set of replacement brakes you used the SS rotors,cylinders etc without the hubs or did you replace everything including the hubs with SS?

 

[NorthernFocus]

...I finally got tired enough of working on brakes every spring that this year I replaced mine with Kodiak all stainless rotors, calipers, and brackets. Double the cost of the plated version. I verified that the pad/disc carriers are also ss. Even the hoses have stainless tubing ends with brass fittings. Unfortunately I won't be able to report until next spring whether it was worth it.

So is the set of replacement brakes you used the SS rotors,cylinders etc without the hubs or did you replace everything including the hubs with SS?

I installed galvanized hubs with the SS slip on rotors. Corrosion on the hubs is pretty much a non-issue (like the rest of the galvanized trailer parts). The main problem with rotors plated with the various materials available is that the plating wears off in no time at all. Then the raw steel surfaces bloom with rust within hours after launch/retrieval. The rust bloom is very abrasive and severely shortens the life of the pads. Also all of that dust from the rusted rotor and wearing pads gunks up the calipers. I think going that route saved $100 or so per wheel vs the ss hubs w/integral rotors. But if money is no object I'd certainly go with the all ss option and not look back.

 

[nzfisher]

Dan

Thanks for that.

 

[NorthernFocus]

Dan

Thanks for that.

One cautionary note. If you have an EasyLoader trailer don't buy the Kodiak oil conversion kit. The seals don't fit. You have to get the Easy Loader seals as the axle is nonstandard. Six Roblees carries them under the EL part no. You can purchase the Kodiak oil lube hub caps separately if desired.

Second note. Unless you drill/tap or purchase hubs with drain port between the bearings you can't drain all oil/water if desired. Residual traps between bearings.