TRAILER FOR R-25

Lobo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2008
Messages
290
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2562J708
Vessel Name
Lobo
MMSI Number
316013957
I don't have a trailer for my R-25 (or a truck, for that matter, but one thing at a time). I'm in Canada, and on Vancouver Island, so getting one from the factory or a US dealer involves customs duties and lots of shipping costs (BC Ferries). I can order from local marine suppliers, but the thing I need to get is a good description of the parts that should be included on a trailer. I've reviewed the posts on this site over the past years and note that no mention is made of a trailer with rollers -- all mention carpeted beds. Comments on this would be appreciated. Brakes -- what works best. I'll be in and out of salt water mostly so salt corrosion is a concern as well as thorough washdowns. What are you doing for tie downs and other securing of boat to trailer? Has anybody a trailer other than EZLoader -- and why? What works for you? All comments welcomed!!

Is there a used one out there that is "such a deal" that going getting it and dragging it back to my island is still worthwhile?

Dave
"Lobo"
 
Dave,
Maureen and I had a King trailer under Solitude. The trailer was fine, the brakes though were another story. There was not one weekend that we did not have the brakes smoking. Each time it was going down a grade though so if you will be doing a lot of "flat land" driving, this should not be an issue. We had the surge brakes on our trailer.

The bunks were fine once we learned where to position the trailer in the water. Rollers would be nice to drive onto however I would worry about losing the boat backing down a ramp.

Charles of Blue Bayou had a trailer up for sale at a very reasonable price a while back. You might try sending him a PM to see if he in fact still has it.
 
I would go to floaton.com These guys build a great trailer and know the Ranger boats. There trailers are built for the salt water and have very good breaks. Even if you do not get a trailer from them they would have a lot of good info you would need for your search. They have contact info on there website.
I feel that is is good to have breaks that you can control from a break controller in the truck. I am also not a big fan of the oil bath bearings. If they leak and you do not know it then you will loose a bearing and be stranded. If you grease the bearings yourself then you have a better way of managing the bearings. Also if one is starting to go bad then you have time to address the problem. I carry extra parts for any road side repairs that could come up. I tow my boat through Mexico and do not want to depend on there services if I don't have to.
I also like the bunks over the rollers. The way I look at that is what would you rather lay on a bunk or a roller?

Hope this helps, Stuart Royston R-29 Coming Soon
 
I agree with the assessment of FloatOn trailers. I have one and it works well. It is made of aluminum, has disc brakes, torsion bar suspension, carpeted bunks, bearings that require greasing and really good guides for floating the boat on and off.

I have mixed feelings about rollers vs bunks. If the ramp angle is such that one can get the boat/trailer far enough into the water that detaching the bow strap at that point won't let the boat roll into shallow water, then I like the rollers. However, different ramps have different slopes and the same ramp can have different slopes at different water levels resulting in questionable points at which one can detach the bow strap.

I had a 25 foot sailboat with a five foot draft roll off the trailer into less than five feet of water; not a pretty sight. 🙁 Raised my blood pressure at least 50 points. 😱 It bent the rudder shaft, destroyed the rudder, broke a big piece off the keel and flooded the boat. In retrospect, I (or someone) would have had to be on the boat and disconnect the bow strap to have prevented that incident.

I haven't owned a trailer with rollers since.

Gene
 
The Laurie Ann has a King Trailer underneath it, one that was bought from the factory after they moved to the EZ Loader ones. I have had great experience with the King Trailer having pulled it from Seattle to Iowa, to Mobile, Alabama and back to Seattle. It has survived a slide off the freeway in Wyoming and King Trailer, as a company, bent over backwards to provide great service to us. The parts for their brakes and axles are widely available having replaced them in Alabama. I prefer grease bearings to oil-filled ones because I am old-school and trust them more.

The one downside of the King Trailer compared to the EZ Loader is that it is about 12" wider at the wheels and therefore is slightly wider than our truck. That only comes to play when we have been on very narrow lanes due to construction and we have to watch to make sure we do take out the cones.

You should get either a galvanized trailer or an aluminum one. Our boating buddy has a custom aluminum trailer made in Florida that is under his Rosborough 246 which is much heavier than the Ranger 25. He loves his trailer. Size-wise the beams are much bigger because it is aluminum-not steel. Painted trailers fail fairly quickly in the saltwater environment.

All these trailers come with surge brakes, not the electric ones like on RV's because the electric ones will do nasty things when they are submersed in salt water. Because these trailers have disc brakes and have an electrically activated release switch when going in reverse. Therefore, power must come to the brakes when backing down the ramp and into the water. The new designs make this safe and reliable. The newer trailers have all LED lights and that solves the problem of lights shorting out when submerged.

I have had a galvanized roller trailer for 10 years, Calkins brand, under a 5,000 pound Bayliner 24 and loved it because the trailer also had an electric winch and we could pull that boat onto the trailer when ramps were not steep enough or at very low tide. There have been many a mishap with roller trailers and all due to operator error.

That said, I do not believe the Ranger 25 is a good candidate for a roller trailer because of its weight, coming it at over 7,000 pounds when full of your stuff and tanks are full. We are very happy with the bunks because there is a lot of control when launching and retrieving. The carpet on the bunks do wear and we just screw on another layer when needed-it is indoor-outdoor carpet from Home Depot. We launch the Laurie Ann probably twice a month year round in Puget Sound. We float it on and float it off. We are not sticklers about submerging the King Trailer completely. Whether the trailer is submerged for 10 seconds or 10 minutes, the salt water is going to go where it goes. We rinse the trailer probably more thoroughly than the tug and replace the bearings every two years.

We use a nylon web tow strap that needs to be replaced every two years because of UV damage. We like that better than steel cable because it is easier on the hands. We use nylon, 3" wide tie down straps at the stern, from the transom hooks to the trailer hooks. Though I have read about folks who do much more strapping from their boats to the trailer, we have trailered 6,000 miles and this system has been fine for us. But we are gentle drivers, easy on the hills and turns and gradual stops; we are ones in the right lane going 10 MPH less than everyone else.

The key themes: get a saltwater trailer; get a trailer that is matched to your boat-the trailer support system should be tuned and adjusted by people who know how to do this; be gentle on the whole package; do not sacrifice on maintenance; and replace bearings every two years as just good practice.
 
Hmm, courses for horses...
Levitation is sitting on a roller trailer for 5 weeks now - and was towed from Virginia to Michigan on same... Fuel is full, other tanks empty mostly... I have been getting a light under it and then sighting along the hull to look for waves or evidence of hull distortion... So far, I see nothing - I know nothing (oops, wrong Stalag)...
I hope you are wrong because spending for a new trailer when the boat is sitting on a new trailer would take the fun out of Christmas...

denny-o
 
j&l gray,

Even the best, most cautious of drivers will be taken advantage of by morons, sooner or later. I suggest you use retaining straps running from the bow of your vessel to a point aft of the midpoint of your trailer, in addition to what you're using at the aft of your vessel. You might have to add eye bolts or pad eyes to the trailer. In an emergency stop they may keep your vessel on the trailer.

A few weeks ago, a Rossi 246 owner experienced his vessel leaving the trailer in a sudden stop. Those folks talked for days about ways to prevent such an incident. Most all felt that vertical restraints, both fore and aft, along with the retraints from the bow going aft was the way to go. Some also felt that restraints running from the aft of the vessel to a point on the forward half of the trailer was helpful, especially if one had a roller trailer. In moving sailboat with keels, we always use all four restraints on each side, two verticals and one fore and one aft. Some of us look like spider webs going down the road. 😀

Don't depend on the winch support to retain your vessel. In almost all cases they fail; they weren't designed for that load.

I've been lucky with towing. But a month ago, I was doing 45 mph in my Audi TT and someone pulled directly across into my lane and beyond, then stopped when he finally "saw" me as I swerved into the left lane and shoulder to avoid him. I couldn't go to the right because of other vehicles in the the side road and in the parking lot at that country store. Riding motorcycles for almost 60 years has taught me a few things, kept my reflexes sharper and helped me in that situation. If I had been towing, that driver would have died, no way to avoid him with a tow.

Keep safe, Gene
 
I would ask Les at EQ Marine Service as to what works and what does not. He was getting away from the C Ranger line as the 25 came out but had a lot of input to what the 21 should have under it. I followed his directions and I got a winner. He may be able to give you a quote even tho your north of the boarder. I got a ez loader from him. EQ is near Whidbey Island is Washington State. I seem to remember a used 25 trailer that was never in water a while back in California and the folks wanted the trailer to go away but I probably am wrong. Take care and cheers,
Bob Heselberg near Eatonville Wa
 
Gene, I had the same concern when we brought Levitation down off that mountain in Virginia that the boat could strike the truck cab in a collision... I was careful - and lucky - that I did not have a panick stop situation, like your example... I am looking at adding a bow snubber that would be straps running from on or near the bow up at the toe rail, diagonally down to the side rails on the trailer, and be cinched at roughly the mid point between the tandem axles...
You bring up an important topic that has not had enough exposure... On THEHULLTRUTH.COM there are photos of boats on top of the tow vehicle after a hard stop..

denny-o
 
I thank you all for your posts! You have given me some very good information and now I need to do the hard part -- figure out just what it is that I want. The websites mentioned have been good -- thanks for those, too. I've learned a lot in the past few days about trailers.

Dave
"Lobo"
 
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