Trailer Position for RT 25 Classic

M

McTuggy

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2020
Messages
6
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
fmlt2553c909
Vessel Name
McTuggy
Hi All - Newbie here....

I have had issues getting my RT25 all the way on my trailer (not touching the front upright bumper). I have a theory that perhaps I am backing too far into the water which would raise the stern and give be the appearance of being tight to the winch bumper while in the water only to find out when I pull it out that it has settled back away from the bumper.

Am I on the right track? With other boats I have had, it was as far in the water as you dare with your tow vehicle. (tires touching the water always worked for me)

Thanks for your help from a happy new owner of a Ranger 25!

Chris
 
Search this forum for "Ranger Bump." This is a well-documented phenomenon. I solved it with my R25sc by purchasing and installing slippery vinyl Astroslip bunk covers (amazon). They are kinda spendy, but worth it in my opinion. They allow winching all the way so that a "bump" is not needed (usually). Understand that when the boat first contacts the front trailer bumper, you are not done. You need to continue winching, actually lifting the bow of the boat, until the winch strap is straight. This is kinda tough to do, but with the low gear on the winch, it is indeed possible...I have done it countless times. If a "bump" is still needed, it is a lot less energetic with the slippery bunk covers. Of course, you gotta be real careful to keep the boat secured to the trailer when backing in to avoid a dry-land launching.

I put these bunk covers on my R21 Classic trailer as well as my R25sc trailer and have had then on for two years. They are a bit of a challenge to install as they come in a coil which need to be straightened out, but I did it, so you can. Use 2" washer-equipped, epoxy-coated deck screws.

CHEERS
 
Welcome to Tugnuts!
What you are experiencing is common with these boats. One theory over the years that seems to make sense is the angle of the ramp. The tug slide was invented. After you pull it out and before it is tightened down move ahead on flat ground and hit the brakes. Hasn’t always worked for me even with lubricating the bunks.
Enjoy your new boat!
 
One more thing you can do..... before you retrieve the boat onto the trailer loosen the bolts to the trailer stanchion, move it forward and retighten the bolts. Also mark the spot where the stanchion is currently located. When you trailer your boat it will move further up on the trailer. After your off the boat ramp and on level ground loosen the stanchion bolts and move it back to the marked spot on the trailer. This is much more work then the bump but also easier on the trailer, boat and truck. Just another idea.

Jim
 
Thanks for the quick information.

I just ordered the glides from Amazon. With your recommendation along with great reviews, I feel like I am on the right track. I look forward to getting them installed!

Chris
 
" Something else I have to buy now... "

It just means you are winning the 'he who dies with .. .. ..' :mrgreen:
 
I'm gonna weigh in on this topic... my R27-OB lives on the trailer, so trailering, launching and retrieving is integral with my boating life.

I've owned (4) boats, (2) aluminum jets and (2) fiberglass, (1) i/o and current outboard. (2) trailers had rollers, (2) with bunks. I prefer bunks hands down over rollers. Last aluminum jet's bunks were full length slicks, and was the easiest to load without question, but we're talking RT's and carpeted bunks, and they work well once you understand ramp, trailer and boat (with anchor) relationships.

Regarding carpeted bunks I've come to realize the hull slides better over wet bunks, so I always back in far enough so any portion of the bunks that come in contact with the hull gets saturated. I do this putting in and taking out. I have also found that bunk lubricants (I like Mary Kate Liquid Rollers) help, especially with the Ranger bump. Lubricants do present some issues at the ramp... the boat wants to slide downhill. Imagine that! A temporary rope holding boat firm during launch while unclipping strap and emergency chain works well... do this only when boat is over water. Powering on during retrieval is more problematic.

Ramp angles change with locations, which change the relationship of the boat bow and the bow roller. Throw in an anchor that extends out with an anchor roller frame, you have additional considerations. If I back in too far where my hull doesn't make contact with the bunks soon enough, I create conflict between the anchor, which sits too low, and the bow roller. I learned this the hard way!

To this day, when so many aspects of boating and fishing have become somewhat relaxed and routine, boat launches still stir some measure of anxiety within me... that's probably a good thing!

Bob
The Doghouse 2
 
I think we all deal with this problem with the RT. The best solutionI for me, after trying slippery sprays, stripping out a winch handle, and the infamous (and really unpleasant) Ranger bump, is moving the stanchion forward,, (mark the location!) and then snugging it back to original position. (as per Kismet) You can't be in a hurry.. it's a time consuming process ( a good ratchet helps), but tolerable if you don't trailer often. I see you are in Olympia-- I don't much like the ramp in Olympia, and do think that higher tides make loading easier with a boat this size and weight. The Astro slip bunk covers look interesting... but I don't know if they would help with a #7000 boat. Let us know how they work with the RT 25.
 
I have the Astroslip on my 2015 25sc trailer. They made all the difference. I can now winch to the final position almost every time. They are a PITA to install (especially if it is kinda cool outside...heat helps). I look forward to hearing about other's experience.

TK
 
The thing I would wonder about after making the bunks "slippery" is when you have to emergency stop is the king post able to control the forward inertia of the hull. I would add a strap from a bow cleat to a point near the rear of the trailer frame, on each side.
Now yes, the friction of the dry bunks will do little to nothing to stop the boat going forward in a crash - not much will. But straps will help.
 
On an emergency stop, the transom straps are going to take some of the load. I run mine from the aft cleats to the eye on the trailer and they lean forward a bit, constraining forward movement. I use heavy-duty 2" ratchet straps and run with them pretty tight. I also run a ratchet strap from the bow eye down to the trailer which would also assist in an emergency stop. That being said, in a crash, all bets are off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top