Trailer recommendation

[pwesthead]

I am looking at a R27 that does not have a trailer, what would be the recommendations for an aluminum trailer that would suit this boat for trailering?

 

[Kevin Lamont]

I am looking at a R27 that does not have a trailer, what would be the recommendations for an aluminum trailer that would suit this boat for trailering?

Hello,

We work with EZ-Loader trailers so when ordered they would come ready to go, minor adjustments. Also comes with proper sling cut outs already in the bunks. Easiest way would be a local EZ-Loader dealer who could order one in for you or maybe a close by Ranger dealer has one for sale. Also there might just be someone on here selling one. Hope this helps.

Thanks,

 

[kjoverbeck]

I just went through this. Very frustrating experience. I called EZ Loader and they said they just sell through dealers. I asked for a dealer list and was told to call back when their sales manager(?) forget his name was in I did, left a message and EZ Loader would not return my calls. I tried 3 other builders with basically the same story for 2 months. I was finally advised to call "Float- On" Trailers. Apparently, they are the originators of the aluminum trailer and the use of torsion axles.
Tamra Poppell
Float-On Trailers
1925 98th Ave
Vero Beach, FL 32966
772-569-4440
Tamra was very knowledgeable, acted as though she wanted my business and had a trailer specifically built for my boat, R-27. They are very busy. My trailer should be ready this month. Price was a little over $8,000 for tri axel with electric over hydraulic brakes.
Good Luck, Kent

 

[knotflying]

Float-on in Vero Beach. It will cost more, but order with stainless steel rotors and calipers. Good company and good service.

 

[ALICE J]

I echo Mike's words about Float-On. I have about 30,000 miles on my trailer, I have made some custom fenders and bow stop with steps (easy way to get on the boat when docks are not handy. I only have a tandem trailer and a little overweight, consequently, the trailer flexes causing the fenders to crack. I replaced them with 3/16 thick aluminum, but they too cracked after 15,000 miles, then again after another 15,000 miles. Check the fenders after every trip for cracks, repair them immediately or the fender may chew up your trailer tires on a dark and lonely byway, miles from help.
I had a jerky Truck and Trailer shop in Palm Beach County replace my brake calipers and they really screw it up, causing loss of brake fluid and a burned-out hydraulic brake motor. Mike's suggestion of stainless steel rotors is a great suggestion. Float On was able to correct the issue which was an incorrect adapter plate that held the brake piston to the wheel. May I suggest placing a camera on the aft railing and running a wire to the cab of your truck so you can see behind you. The wireless camera gets too much interference from stray electrical currents, like a big semi passing close by. Also, check the placement of the bunks relative to the placement of the thru-hulls. My thru-hulls were located in the cut out for lifting straps, and when the trailer was not deep enough to unload the boat, the thru-hulls would hang upon the bunks, so the boat would not float off the trailer. Fortunately, I did not force it off, recognizing what had happened; thus averting a major problem.
Have lots of fun with your R27, they are made to travel, 😉 and may the trailer always be behind you 😱

 

[kjoverbeck]

After reading Knotflying's post regarding Stainless brakes I called to see what Was going to be on my trailer. Found out SS brakes were over a $2,800 upgrade. YIKES!! Too much for me. I will be mainly in fresh water anyway. I was surprised at the cost. I have bought SS brakes for other trailers and they didn't cost anywhere near that.

 

[pwesthead]

Thanks guys! Great input, I will contact them

Cheers

 

[bshillam]

Looking for a trailer too but West Coast Oregon/Washington as Float On is only East Coast.

 

[scross]

After looking at the factory E-Z Loader trailer we ended up buying a custom trailer from Tuff Trailers in Bellingham, WA. Back in 2015 there was a 4 week lead time so we kept the boat at Friday Harbor while we waited.
Tuff Trailers aren’t perfect by any means. An additional 100 pounds of tongue weight would have been better - taking me from 7% to 8%. But their trailers are robust. For the R25 Classic, the trailer weights in at just a few pounds under 2,000. It does not flex at all ever! It is the most stable 30 foot trailer I have towed in 40 years of towing long trailers.
Yes, all stainless electric over hydraulic brakes are an expensive upgrade but worth it in my mind.
Tuff has done a bunch of Cutwater trailers and I’ve seen a R27 Classic on one of their trailers as well.
Since we typically launch out of Bellingham it’s nice to have the trailer manufacturer just down the road for periodic checks and “tune ups”.

 

[RAYDAVIS54]

Hi
I too want to be the owner of a Ranger R-21EC. I have located one that is without a trailer and I would like to have one. After reading posts on this forum it looks like I'm out of luck for finding one anytime soon. I do have ask you knowable folks a general question....does this craft require a custom trailer. I'm thinking single axel with breaks of course. I will be towing it with a Honda Ridgeline with a towing capacity of 5000 LBS. I live in the Pacific NW (Lynnwood, WA). Does anyone have any new thoughts not already covered in this forum. the trailer dealers are not too helpful these days! Thanks

 

[RAYDAVIS54]

I was able to find a trailer for my new to me 2010 R21EC. It is galvanized, tandem axel with disk brakes and 13" wheels. It was made by Road Runner Trailers in British Columbia. It would appear to be very well made and is a good west coast option as the EX Loader folks are not to EZ to work with. I bought it from the kind people at Seattle Water Sports. It was a bit of a roller coaster ride to get it but it should be aces. I am about set it up to accept the R21 and having not done this before I am hoping to find some photographs of a trailer without a boat on it or a good photo with an R21 on a trailer.
Thanks in advance for any useful information. I am really looking forward to shocking some folks in The Big Sky Country with this thing!!! Flathead Lake, Montana or Bust.
Ray Davis

 

[PanaSeaAh]

After reading this thread, I realized that I was not the only one fighting cracked aluminum fenders. Have 7 repair welds so far. Never stood on the fenders. Tried the reinforcement welded under the fender, and they cracked at the end of the reinforcement. Tried rubber discs under the mounting bolts, but those didn't help, and eventually split. After reading the other posts, I think I have an idea of what is actually happening. So..... I took the direct approach. If the fenders need to flex there, then find a way to let them do that.
I cut the fenders in half 2" behind the center brace, and then installed a 2" by 7" stainless piano hinge across the cut. The fenders now easily flex in the center. Used Stainless screws, washers and nuts to mount hinge to the fender. Re-mounted the fenders with the rubber washers on the bolts at each end where they mount on the fender mounting brackets. Opened the cut at the ends of the hinge about 15 degrees in the fender flare so the hinge can flex without interference. Have gone about three hundred miles so far, and no new cracks. Also noticed the noise that was apparently coming from the fenders being squeezed is gone. Trailer is much quieter. Have not figured out the photo thing here yet, so can't show this. The fenders would flex about 30 degrees up in the center and about the same down. The cut in the fender is the width of the saw blade after mounting on the hinge. Total cost was about $40 for parts.

 

[pleeson]

Wherever you source the trailer make sure it's rated for 12,000 lbs! A cruise ready R27 ready to launch can start crowding 10,000 lbs and the trailer has to carry its own weight also.