Trailer Specifications for R25

[mainer]

I am going to buy a used R25 Classic but it does not have a trailer. Does anyone have any recommendations for what to buy in a trailer? Are there posted specifications somewhere?

 

[Kimberly Dawn]

I would call RT factory to see what trailer they matched with a new R25. Also, if purchasing a used or after market trailer, understand for that boat with maximum load carrying capacity, what style brakes will Canada accept crossing the border (ie. surge vs elec/hydr).

Good luck!

 

[scross]

We had our aluminum trailer for Our Journey custom built in Washington. The hull shape at the stern requires a unique trailer solution to support the keel. Our trailer has a keel support that runs the full length of the trailer. We were told by RT staff that the hull shape and center of gravity for the R-25SC was different than for the R-25 Classic with a different trailer configuration. RT was using EZ Loader trailers back when the 25 Classics were in production so you might want to contact them. If you could borrow a empty R-25 Classic trailer to be measured by a trailer builder that could be a good start.
Good luck!

PS: I’d recommend aluminum frame construction with electric over hydraulic disc brakes. Tandem axle trailer should be rated for 8,500 pounds load at a minimum.

 

[cmwahl]

Ez loader trailer has diagrams of the trailer they made for all the Ranger tugs. We purchased a 27’ classic Ranger tug with a trailer made for the new 27’ OB. Different weight distribution so we called EZ loader and they sent us the diagrams and specs for the Classic 27’ trailer. We then reconfigured the trailer from those specs and purchased a few parts from EZ loader. They probably can make you a trailer from all their inventory.

 

[Favunclerich]

Several of us R-25 owners have had Loadmaster of Port Clinton, Ohio build trailers. That might be a little closer for you in Maine. I've generally been happy with mine. It was set up to carry the boat on the first try without adjustment. It is structurally sound and the frame and bunks extend far enough back to allow you to use the rear tie-downs on the boat. Other manufacturers require the rear tie-down to be a long strap over the cockpit. Loadmaster should have the plans on file.

Suggested options include; galvanized steel frame, stainless steel hardware, electric-over-hydraulic brakes, LED lighting, a wiring pigtail to connect to the wiring harness in the anchor locker, stronger aluminum wheels and 15-inch load range E tires, two spare tires/wheels, stainless steel disc brakes and something other than the standard plastic license plate bracket. Some people carry a spare tire mounted on a spare bearing/hub.

You'll get varying opinions on the need for rear guide bars to align the boat onto the trailer. I wasn't sure whether I needed them, so I had mounting brackets welded on so that they could be installed later if necessary. After eight years, I have done fine without them. Some of this may be due to the Loadmaster forward bunk design that centers the hull easily when loading. After contacting the forward bunks, I use the rudder to center the bow as I drive the boat up to the bow roller. Using this technique, the stern always comes out within an inch or two of center. Driving around the launch ramp with a firm stop will center the stern completely and drive the boat forward the last few inches to the bow roller. The disadvantage to the Loadmaster forward bunk design is that it will swipe of a little of the bottom paint each time the boat is loaded or unloaded. You should also be aware that if you drive with guide bars installed, you'll exceed the 8 foot 6 inch width of the boat.

Other manufacturers have done fine with aluminum frames, although trailers manufactured by Float On have a serious problem with fender cracking.

It's important to use a realistic weight when specifying a trailer. My boat weighs 7000 lbs empty even though the brochure stated 5740 pounds originally. I have neither a generator nor air conditioning, so some boats are much heavier. I have weighed the boat on the trailer at about 9500 pounds including a quarter tank of fuel and some cruising gear. I suggest that you specify at least 10 percent higher than that and shoot for around 800-900 pounds of tongue weight. The original trailers sold by the factory were inadequate for the realistic weights, although that has since improved.

Now if only I could get a sales commission?

Rich

 

[mainer]

Thank you all for the great advice! This is very helpful!

 

[scross]

When calculating your total wet boat weight remember that these trailers typically weigh in empty at 1700 to 1950 pounds depending on options. While I thought the aluminum trailers would be lighter, our trailer builder said they were almost identical in weight. Our tandem axle aluminum trailer weights in at about 1850 pounds.
Went with aluminum for longevity since we launch/retrieve mostly in salt water. Last aluminum trailer we had for prior boat looked like new after a decade of use.

 

[mainer]

Thank you again for all the help - I did end up ordering a trailer from Loadmaster of Port Clinton, Ohio . I spent a lot of time looking and did not find anyone else with the expertise or trailer quality of this company. I am sure they are out there but two hours of looking online did not show it. There trailers appear to be really beefy and well built. The stock trailers from the national brands look cheap in comparison. Additionally they have already built trailers for my boat and when you look at the design there is a lot to it. We should have it in about six weeks.

 

[mainer]

I ordered one with 16" tires, stainless bolts, side guards, spare tire, and 6,000 pound dual axles.

 

[mainer]

I did order the trailer from Loadmaster and i just received it. We pulled the Ranger R25 out of the water yesterday. Having had a machine shop for 30 years I know a little about how things are made. This is far and away the best trailer i have ever had or seen for that matter. I could go on and on but you get the idea. They only custom make trailers one at a time for your boat (and truck pulling it). It doesn't make sense to spend a hundred grand or more on a boat and then get a cheap trailer that may leave you by the side of the road. Thank you to those above on this thread that recommended this company.

 

[PanaSeaAh]

Great choice:
I had a Loadmaster under my last boat, which replaced a dealer-supplied trailer that was a constant and expensive headache. They do the best loading, strength, finish, and support. Never needed loading guides due to excellent design. They will certify for Canadian use if needed. In twelve years, only maintenance was to replace seals every three or four years, and one set of brakes. I wish I could have put it under the R 25, but conversion cost was close to the cost of a new trailer.
I am a believer in steel wheels, and put new wheels and Goodyear Endeavor E-range tires on the trailer I bought with my R 25. Will only run Maxxis or Goodyear. Anything else is a bet I don't want to lose.
They will do base-coat clear-coat in any color, or match your boat if you are doing fresh water. Trailer looked like new when I sold it. Family owned and great to deal with. If the current upgraded trailer does not hold up, or if I get fed up welding the cracks in the fenders, it will be another Loadmaster.

 

[Levitation]

For those reading who have not seen a tug on a Loadmaster, my photo album has a couple of pics.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=25880
Compare that degree of support to any of the other brands out there.