Trailer sway

Jfrano

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
464
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 CB
Vessel Name
June Sea
Am now trailering our Rt29CB from Florida to New Jersey. Sitting in McD!

Am noticing a moderate amount of sway above 58mph, forcing me to back down to 56.

One question... should the bow be pulled completely into the trailer upper roller, it’s 3-4 back
Thanks
 
J,

Your experience is not so different than mine...
I had almost no sway with bow as far forward as she’d go.
I noticed sway when she wasn’t nosed all the way up. I think it is a balance issue...
The only way I could get her forward was to splash her again.

Let me know how you make out.
 
Without being able to look at your rig, here are a couple of thoughts/questions:

Typically there should be about 10% of the weight of the loaded trailer bearing down on the hitch. So it's possible that moving the boat forward will rectify the problem, if that's what's causing it.

The other thing to check is tire pressures... ALL the tires on your tow vehicle and the trailer. You've probably already done that, so I'm just throwing it out there in case.

Let us know how your make out, and good luck!
 
If you have a factory trailer it should be built to be balanced correctly with the bow against the trailer bow roller. If you can’t resplash or do the “Ranger Bump”, try moving heavy gear forward into the v-berth. The trailer should be level to the ground while towing to keep the loads on all the axles even. The 10% tongue weight rule is for single axle trailers and most trailer builders recommend 6-9% of tongue weight for multiple axle trailers. Good luck!
 
I agree with Al in the above post. Did you try the "Ranger Bump"?
My 25SC would bounce all over the place If the bow was not "bumped' up tight to the roller. I never had any sway. but looking in that mirror and seeing the boat going up and down worried me.
 
What is the "Ranger bump"?
 
Katmat":2m7bzm21 said:
What is the "Ranger bump"?

Step 1: Find an empty parking lot or side road
Step 2: Accelerate in a straight line to about 5-10mph
Step 3: Slam on brakes as hard as you can

This should cause the boat to slide the extra bit until it is stopped by the bow roller

The "Ranger Bump" works for me and makes a dramatic difference towing the boat
 
That’s great! I’ll be trying that as we get going in the morning. Stopped in Georgia for the night.
Will loosen straps first.
 
For the Ranger Bump I’ve been told you want the trailer brakes disconnected. Don’t forget to reconnect everything before getting on the road.
For future reference spraying the bunks with MaryKate Liquid Rollers (Amazon and others carry it) spray before getting the boat in the trailer helps get the bow tight against the trailers bow roller when doing the Ranger Bump.
 
scross":1ce43jcs said:
For the Ranger Bump I’ve been told you want the trailer brakes disconnected.
Why would you want to disconnect the trailer brakes? I would expect one would want as much braking power as possible. I have never disconnected the brakes when I have done it. But I am willing to learn if that is indeed the recommended way. The few times I have tried the "Ranger Bump" it has worked best when the boat is fresh out of the water and the bunks are wet. The one time I tried it after the bunks had dried, it didn't work very well. Good luck.
 
All good advice stated. I also found that having a near empty fuel and water tank (R-27) made for a bouncy ride. I keep about 40 gallons of fuel and 10 gal of water and get a better ride. I will also put items in the v-berth to get more weight towards the tongue. Getting the bow tight to the stop is key.
 
One trick to the bump is doing it on any kind of downhill you can find, this lessens the amount of braking needed and hopefully reduces the thump when the vessel contacts the roller. Perhaps the downhill angle causes the boat to lift a bit which could be especially helpful when doing the bump dry.
 
Lots of good advice in this thread. With our R29S my routine is to loosen the bolts to the U bolts holding down the trailer wench stand, move it towards the hitch 3 to 4 inches and retighten. I then load the boat and pull out of the water. Once out I relooked the bolts and move the stand back so the roller is snug against the bow, tighten bolts and finish prepping for trailering. I know this is more work but less stressful on the truck n trailer brakes and I get the boat where I want. Also if you have a strap at the bow that connects the boat directly down to the trailer frame it helps eliminate any or most up n down movement of the boat on the trailer therefore possibly helping your sway issue.

Jim F
 
trailertrawlerkismet":3euy98ay said:
Lots of good advice in this thread. With our R29S my routine is to loosen the bolts to the U bolts holding down the trailer wench stand, move it towards the hitch 3 to 4 inches and retighten. I then load the boat and pull out of the water. Once out I relooked the bolts and move the stand back so the roller is snug against the bow, tighten bolts and finish prepping for trailering. I know this is more work but less stressful on the truck n trailer brakes and I get the boat where I want. Also if you have a strap at the bow that connects the boat directly down to the trailer frame it helps eliminate any or most up n down movement of the boat on the trailer therefore possibly helping your sway issue.

Jim F
Never thought of that!

That is a really good idea, and as you said a lot easier on the truck, trailer, and boat!
 
I’d like to think I came up with the idea but I did not, came from a fellow Tugnutter.

Jim F
 
Did this morning and it worked great! Was able to go 60+ with only occasion sway. We’re stopped in Richmond, Va for the evening, finishing trip tomorrow .
 
One thing I forgot to mention that we have to make sure to do when trailering our R29S is to have the trim tabs in the complete upward position.

Jim
 
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