TRAILER TOWING

ALICE J

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
407
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FLM27251011
Vessel Name
ALICE J
MMSI Number
NONEHERES
Is there a check list, or has anyone compiled a check list for getting the trailer and boat ready for towing. Airline pilots have check lists, would be nice to have such a list and tick off each item that is important to safe towing. Example, I walked around my R 27 that I just put on the trailer, doors closed and locked, windows closed and locked, ladder up. But what I forgot was the antenna, it was up, hit a tree branch; broke the stainless steel up/down bracket, Had to weld it back together, and so much the wiser. Hence the check list :cry:
 
Lots of things to check:
Plugged in, safety chains installed, safety pin in and tongue locked, all lights operable, tire pressure checked, boat secured, brakes exercised and operating correctly and is breakaway functioning.

Boat: Windows closed and secured, mast down and secured, antennas down and secured, bimini frame folded and secured (I remove bimini), all interior loose items secured, all battery switches off, propane off, stove jet caps removed and stored table down.
 
Wheel chocks,
Heavy duty bottle jack,
4 x 4s or 2 x 8 wood blocks,
Tire change kit,
Roadside safety kit(flares, triangle reflectors)
Trailer towing assistance insurance
 
Does anyone travel with the bimini fabric on the frames? We completely removed and stowed it. It did come with a zippered cover, but all the fabric looks too big to fit under it and zip it up, much less the supports that attach the frame to the rear door overhang.

Also, does anyone trailer with their dingy attached to the davits? That just seems like a bad idea from the get-go.
 
A tire changing ramp is well worth the money, use it once and you will be glad you have one.
I carry an extra set of bearings and races as well as an extra axle spindle, extra lug nuts. Wheel bearing grease, grease gun and the tools to change a bearing if you need to. Two spare tires and a small compressor.
 
I routinely tow by boat with the bimini folded up with the cover attached. I wrap the tie down straps around the bimini cover to hold everything in place. I haven't had any issues so far and I've been doing this the last 2 years. Experience is the best check list. For me, the excitement and anticipation of getting out on the water exposes a flaw in my otherwise reliable good sense and opens up the possibility of making a serious mistake. I know cause I've done it and learned from my error(s). After I think I have everything ship-shape for towing I MAKE myself slowly walk around the entire boat, trailer and truck WITH MY MATE each and every time we tow. I tug on the tie down straps, make sure the trailer tongue is securely connected to the ball hitch and all safety chains, electrical line and locks are connected. I look to make sure all the windows are closed and the mast and antennae are down and locked. I check trailer tire pressures, look at the lug nuts, check all the lights, brake function and look a second time at the drain plug. When I get the ok nod from my mate I proceed.
It's much better to find and correct an issue in your driveway than to have a motorist on the highway point to something falling off, sticking up or flapping in the breeze. There's not a better teacher than EXPERIENCE.

Safe towing,

Karl
 
It was asked if anyone tows with the Bimini up and the dinghy on the davits. While I am not sure I would be comfortable doing it for long distance or freeway driving I do tow from our house to the launch in this configuration. About 17 miles at 45 mph each way and have not had a problem. I actually think the Bimini helps to protect the dinghy from significant drag.

Kenny delivered the boat with the dinghy on the davits with Bimini rolled up and secured. 80 miles with freeway driving no problem.
 
I know of several people who had a few sections of the bimini worn away from rubbing on the support pipes inside the cover. Playing it safe and I take it off while towing.
 
We added gussets to our trailers license plate and tail light brackets. We also mounted the license plate to a plastic backing plate and ditched the standard license plate holder and fashioned a new one out of some conveyor belt and bolted the license plate and backing plate to the conveyor belt.. We also made up some security retaining wires should any of the other items fail. All these were done as a result of identical things failing on other boat trailers we have towed over the years. We carry a block of wood for being able to drive one wheel up on it to change a tire or to pound in a new wheel seal. A three pound hammer will come in handy if you need to replace a seal or end cap.
We put hands on tires and fingers on bearing hubs every stop. Can't hold the hand or the fingers on something because it's too hot means something is amiss. Pictures of trailer mods and license plate holder in our photos if it's of any interest. Also check brake lines for abrasion where they come in contact to other parts of the trailer. Slitting clear hose and tie wrapping over the brake hose is a stitch in time saves nine. We power bleed brakes every two years as brake fluid collects moisture. Good idea for you tow vehicle also. Cheaper than having to replace brake calipers. Loctite all set screws and pivot screws on your Bimini top frames. Safe Travels Road Warriors.
 
Here's ours:

Hook up trailer

· Hitch up, safety cables, breakaway cable & power
· Remove wheel chocks from trailer if in place
· Rig up rear view camera
· Secure dinghy
· Install drain plug
· Close hatches and ports
· Secure fenders and dock lines
· Secure bimini frame
· Secure VHF antenna
· Check trailer brake and directional lights
· Extend side view mirrors
· Check tire pressure
· Check bow & stern tie downs
· Inflate air bags to 50 psi
· Check trailer brakes

Prep for launch

· Make sure drain plug is installed!
· Remove bow & stern tie down straps
· Loosen bow winch strap. Leave safety chain in place
· Unstrap dinghy and put in run position
· Open ports & hatches
· Unrig rear view camera
· Turn on battery switches
· Check engine oil and coolant levels
· Remove anchor bungee
· Remove front window canvas and radar dome cover
· Raise mast
· Setup bimini
· Rig dock lines & fenders
· Get boat pole out
· Retract side view mirrors
· Open rear hatch on truck
· Lock front wheel hubs and put in lo 4WD.

Retrieval/Tow

· Lock hubs and put truck in lo 4WD
· Install trailer hull guides if removed
· Set wheel chocks under truck rear tires
· Drive/winch boat on trailer.
· Attach safety chain
· --- Haul out ---
· Stow wheel chocks
· Take truck out of lo 4WD
· Unlock hubs
· Lower mast, secure w/ bungee
· Secure anchor w/ bungee
· Install front window canvas and radar dome cover
· Stow dock lines and fenders
· Remove bimini canvas and secure frame
· Remove drain plug
· Turn off battery switches
· Close hatches and ports
· Secure dinghy
· Do bump routine if necessary
· Rig up rear view camera
· Rig bow & stern tie down straps
· Check trailer lights
· Extend side view mirrors
· Inflate air bags to 50 psi
 
The hidden problem with towing is when to replace tires on your trailer. Heavy truck and trailer tires have a life regardless of wear. If your trailer tires are exposed to the sun when not in use the tires are even more suspect. The bad news- tires need to be replaced every 4-6 years for reliable service- check with your tire supplier. Other things to add- 2 bottle jacks to make sure you can get that trailer tire high enough to get if off and a breaker bar and socket that fits your trailer tire lug nuts, not the same as your truck. Shooting the lug nuts with a corrosion block occasionally is not a bad idea, including the spare.
 
Attention all trailer owners! Be careful when buying tires for your trailer. ALL tires have a date of manufacture pressed into the tire. It's a coded number that's easy to figure out. It gives month and year of manufacture. Don't let a dealer "sneak" an old tire in that looks brand new. They might try. Look or ask for the date of manufacture BEFORE they put it on the rim. All trailer tires should be changed at 5 years. REGARDLESS of mileage.

Karl
 
I would like to thank each of the respondents for their inputs. Question, how do you keep the bugs of the front windows on the Tug? Where do you find an adaptor for the shore power cord that plugs into the RV outlets at campgrounds.
 
We have snap-on Sunbrella covers for the windshields. They protect from bugs and also stones.

For campground electrical, we connect the 30A power cord to a pigtail the other end of which is a household 110V plug, and then connect that to the typical RV adapter from 15A 110V to 20A RV plug. Got ours at a campground, but probably available at RV supply places.
 
We bought a Marinco short cord adapter that goes from your standard marine thirty amp plug to a standard twenty AMP 120 Volt wall outlet plug that uses a threaded coupler to seal it better from rain and moisture. They cost around 50 dollars. We use it to be able to get shore power by way of our Honda 2000 generator if we are on land but away from another power source. We use that same short adapter cord when we have the boat in the driveway at home to keep the battery charger and a heater plugged in to keep air circulating and dry to prevent moisture build up to eliminate mold from forming. We have an adapter from a RV joint that will take the standard 120 volt wall outlet type plug to he RV style plug. Some RV parks offer 20 amp service that a normal 120 Volt plug will plug right into. Happy Boater Camping.
 
ALICE J":zwdj6ani said:
I would like to thank each of the respondents for their inputs. Question, how do you keep the bugs of the front windows on the Tug? Where do you find an adaptor for the shore power cord that plugs into the RV outlets at campgrounds.

Alice J,

You can buy the adapter for the shore power cord that plugs into the 30 Amp RV outlets at campgrounds from Amazon. This is the one that I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14355-Pig ... B001XW7UWA

Also, you can buy another adapter that will let you plug into a household 15/20 Amp outlet, as noted in the above link, under "Frequently Bought Together".
 
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