Trim Tab Switch Frustration

[fishheadbarandgrill]

2011 R29. Easy operation, replace trim tab switch. Somehow, the factory managed to install the switch with zero slack in the wiring. Anyone else run into this? I’ve managed to get an inch or so. I might be able to install 4 butt connectors and extension the wiring on those, but the hot wire is so tight that I’ll probably need to bolt two ring connectors together in order to get enough slack. This is nuts!

 

[Kevin Lamont]

2011 R29. Easy operation, replace trim tab switch. Somehow, the factory managed to install the switch with zero slack in the wiring. Anyone else run into this? I’ve managed to get an inch or so. I might be able to install 4 butt connectors and extension the wiring on those, but the hot wire is so tight that I’ll probably need to bolt two ring connectors together in order to get enough slack. This is nuts!

Hello Bob,

I can possibly help you out without having to extend wires. Have you also removed both the helm shift and thruster controls? This can aid with getting enough room in order to get slack or cut a ziptie that is holding the service loop we put in at the harness. Worst case you could remove the fridge and access the underside that way but believe after getting some extra space at the helm shifter you should be good. Hope this helps!!

Thanks,

 

[Sharron]

We experienced a similar lack of slack in the wires of our overhead lamp when we had to replace the dimmer switch. Frustrating, especially when working overhead with a dangling fixture. Had to build a "Jenga" tower to help. Advice to factory is to leave a little extra wire and tuck it in.

 

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Here are a few pictures showing the extent of the problem. There was not enough slack in the wiring to even turn the switch so that I could unscrew the ring connectors from the terminals. So I cut the 4 signal wires and then was able (with a small angled screw driver) get access to unscrew the power lead. I then extended the wiring with but connecters (using the wiring provided with the switch). In order to save from re-terminating the power wire, I simply added a ring connector on one end and used a nut and bolt to fasten the two wires together. Switch is now installed and working properly. This seemed a much simpler method than removing the fridge... Access through the throttle housing would not have worked...

 

[scross]

Bob,
I share your frustration about the short length wiring!
I don’t think the factory ever heard about leaving a “service loop” when wiring. I put them everywhere when I was wiring up my airplane. Made making changes so much easier!
I’ve yet to see one yet on my boat. I guess the factory expects that all electrical components & fixtures have an infinite life.
PS: Haven’t seen any drip loops either but that’s a different issue/problem.