Truck recommendations for towing 28C

Add me to the definitely 3/4 ton diesel group with exhaust brake period. We have about 20K miles towing our CW with our 2007 and our prior boat of equal weight with our 2007 Duramax and will likely have another 5K before this year is out. Prior comments are spot on with the 12K weight with boat fuel, trailer etc. We tow fully loaded with fuel and water as 1) it handles better and 2) fueling out of state is at least .75 to 1.00 gallon cheeper and we are there anyway. We have a short bed crew cab mainly for the turning radius. If that is not important the longer bed will give a little more towing capacity
 
You are all fabulous! Love hearing about the options you chose! Thank you, thank you!


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This is a very important topic. Although I can't say that I am well-experienced in towing a large boat, I have started. Prior to this, I did a lot of homework. Some of you might remember about a year and a half ago, and prior to purchasing my 2017 R31 CB, I was posting about "the right tow vehicle".

I kept pushing back with, "but why can't my Ram 1500 Ecodiesel be used to tow this boat?" The fact is it could. But not in any safe capacity. Even with added airbags, added electronic brakes, etc., it could not be made to be the correct, or even somewhat safe, tow vehicle for an 11,500 pound boat plus trailer. I eventually went to a dealer and put my 1500 side by side with a 3500. What clinched it for me was crawling underneath. EVERTHING is thicker, stronger, and build more solidly. Even the brake calipers and rotors. Everything!

The ratings on towing between these two vehicles can't even compare, 7,500 lbs vs. 30,000 lbs capacity. I ended up trading in the 1500 for a 3500 with cummins diesel. It came standard with exhaust brake and I added the electronic trailer brakes.

We recently got back from Pensacola. It was a 2300 mile round trip. The 3500 pulled the boat without any problem. Up the hills and down the hills. No problem! I have no doubt that I made the right choice. And when not towing, I surprisingly get 16mpg around town and 19 highway. If I baby her, I can get 22 on highway.

So THANK YOU to everyone who told me know “NO” to the half ton truck. And I see no reason to go to a 2500 and be just “within” capacity when you can feel very safe in a 3500. Just my 2 cents.

Bobby
 
Thanks Bobby!

Yes, took us a bit to get there too but we’re going to go for 3500/350, depending on brand though we’ve had a Cummins diesel before so probably Ram.

You all are right, I’d rather not worry about it and get more than needed. I tried to find another string on this, guess I didn’t search correctly so thank you for mentioning it.

This forum is so fantastic, thanks to all!

Michele
 
Another question on this: We have finally put a deposit on a Ram 3500 Cummins. My husband wants to put on larger tires and an up to a 4 inch lift kit on it—frankly, I’m fine with the way it is. I do know it can affect 5th wheel towing. Anyone know how this affects towing a 28C, triple axel easy loader trailered, or if it’s even a concern? Thanks so much.


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We chose a 2008 Ford F-450 diesel 4x4 to tow our 2012 R29 on a 30k (former military) Boatmaster trailer with 3 12k axles. It might be overkill, but it's hard to get too much of a good thing.
 
Regarding the 4" leveling kit and bigger tires. My wife and I had that same discussion. I think your husband totally deserves the lift kid, bigger tires and nice rims (I added rims to your list - you're welcome!). You will need a ladder to get in, but that's ok.

Here is my opinion. I wouldn't change anything about your chassis until you driven and towed for at least a year. If there is some concern anywhere in the drivetrain, I am sure it will be blamed on those additions unless they are dealer installed. Tires and rims no worries.

I'm not sure what model you are purchasing, but if you will certainly need nerf bars (those are the "steps" mounted to the side to help get in) and a bug shield. Also a Tonneau cover for the bed. You're going to be carrying lots of stuff and will want it covered and safe.

I got my truck with the locking Ramboxes. I had them on my last truck and think they are awesome. And diesel is absolutely the way to go.

I'm not sure what affect a lift kid would have on towing, in general, so I won't weigh in on that.

BTW, my wife would not let me get new, wheels rims, etc. She said I already have spend enough on the truck! I do however have a four inch lift kit in my basement that I will be installing next summer. Maybe by then I can peel her fingers off my wallet and get the tires and rims 😀
 
Good advice posted by everyone. Here is my take.
1) Any of the domestics (Ford, GM, Ram) make good trucks. Their diesels all do a superb job of towing. They each, as others have noted, have their highs and lows.
2) The Tundra has a good repair record but otherwise is a dated design. The domestics far surpass them in design and performance.
3) Make sure you buy "enough" truck. If you move to a bigger boat, you may end up having to buy a truck with higher towing capabilities.
4) I owned a SUV that was rated to tow 8,000 pounds. My previous boat and trailer weighed 9000 pounds. My insurance agent commented to me that if I ever was in an accident they would not cover me. You will likely be cited by the police as well.
5) Same goes for towing an oversized load (in most states any boat with a beam wider than 8'6"). The c28 has a beam of 8'6" so you don't need oversize permits.
6) Check to make sure the combined weight of your boat, trailer, truck weight, people and gear do not exceed the maximum combined weight for your truck. I highly recommend going to a certified truck scale to have your boat and trailer weighed with everything in it that you will likely be taking with you. That includes fuel, water and anything else on the boat.
7) Gas models of each truck have good towing levels. The Ford trucks with the Ecoboost enginges (direct injection, turbocharged) have surprisingly high tow limits. The gas powered trucks typically get single digit fuel mileage. If you tow in hilly areas like we did (I 5 up through the Siskiyous and Sierra mountains you may only get 7-9 mpg. Diesels typically get better. I averaged 13 mpg towing 9000 pounds with my Ford F250 diesel.

Have fun with your new Cutwater!

Tom
 
One other advantage to diesel is the ability to use the truck lanes at participating truck stops using the RV Fuel program through TSD Logistics Inc. Basically you go to their website and get set up with a direct deposit account and they issue you an EFS fuel card along with access to their app with a PIN number.

Look for participating truck stops/stations on their app and go through the truck lanes. Savings vary and as an example we fueled in Washington and Oregon for $1.80-$1.60 gallon and in California for $2.55 on our way home from the PNW this week. You need the adapter to fill the boat due to the larger nozzle. In Nevada and Utah we found Maverick stations to be cheaper so it does vary. In any event, every little bit helps. This summer alone we saved about $275 in fuel costs.
 
Thanks everyone for all your help! Put a deposit down on a 2020 Ram 3500 Diesel Cummins with an Aisin transmission. Just waiting for final details to go through!

I really appreciate all the info on this string!

Bobby, thanks for the fabulous commentary—loved it! Getting an adjustable hitch so husband can get the tires he wants and the lift—two inches. Good luck sneaking it onto your truck. 😉
 
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