Two Electrical questions/ 2013 Cutwater 28

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The Adventure Continues
1) When the water tank is completely empty the pump continues to run. Is there a switch someplace to turn off the pump? Is pulling the fuse the only way to turn it off? 2) I believe that the solar panel is wired to the ACR switch that controls the battery charging from either the engine or shore power. The ACR literature says the solar panels should be wired direct to the batteries and not through the ACR, because is will cause the batteries to drain down. Something that I have experienced. Has anyone found this to be the case and is it a difficult job to re-wire the solar panels directly to the batteries?
 
I have a 2014 C30, there is a water pump switch and water level gage next the to the electrical panel below mid-birth. Yes the Solar charging wires on my boat go directly to the house and starter batteries.
 
David,

Regarding the wiring your solar panel wiring, I think if you look further you will find the solar panel charge does not actually go “through the ACR”. The connections on the ACRs where the Solar charging cables are connected go “directly” to the house bank and the engine start bank. It matters little whether the connection was made the battery terminal or at the ACR (or anywhere else where there is a sufficiently sized cable between the two). The only battery with its only solar charge source “through” an ACR is the Thruster battery, and this is the case whether the connections are made at the house and start battery terminals or at the ACRs.

I understand there are those who may argue about the term “direct” connection in this case but I think a very short large cable (00 AWG I think) counts as direct connect. In any case it is a good idea to make sure the connections stay tight with no corrosion.

Curt

P.S. the above presumes the wiring was correctly wired at the factory and has not been changed by the owner. If either of your solar charge wires are connected to the Thruster battery side of an ACR or both charge wires connected to the ACR such that they lead to the same battery then that is incorrect and should be corrected.

P.P.S On some boats (like mine) the battery 1 and battery 2 solar charge cables had the house and engine battery leads going to the incorrect battery for solar charging due to RT’s choice of labeling the House bank as battery #2. The Morningstar Controller assumes the House bank is battery #1 and allocates 90% of the charge to that bank (unless configured to 50% by the user). The Engine start battery should be battery #2 on the solar controller. You can check this by monitoring the battery #2 voltage on your solar remote display and either disconnect the house battery or significantly change its load (while the ACRs are open). If the House bank is on battery #2 at the solar controller it is backwards and should be swapped with the Engine start battery.
 
solar draining the engine battery has been a problem i have had.

good post:
http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14056&hilit

this blue seas article describes exactly my behaviour:
https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...ensitive_Relays_and_Automatic_Charging_Relays
its magnified for me at anchor because as the boat gently swings at anchor the varying shadow on the panel from the radar tower drops the panel volts when in the shade, but the ACR stays open for the timeout period. during which now the batteries are equalising - dropping the engine batt state of charge.

to be honest I think the wiring approach is slightly flawed and doesnt enable the best possible control of battery management in our boats, BUT its probably the right solution for our boat size and price point.

id really like to switch out to a charging solution for the house and thruster batteries and then DC to DC charge the engine battery off the house. This approach completely isolates the engine start battery from the rest of the system. Id also move the propane solenoid off the engine battery to get rid of its parasitic draw.

I really appreciate steve's install on his boat: https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/ - but he has a 40+ foot ocean alexander..
I just dont think this is possible in our boats with the available space. I have no idea where I would put that blue victron/charger inverter.
 
Cutwater28GG":1pmtbvh2 said:
I really appreciate steve's install on his boat: https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/ - but he has a 40+ foot ocean alexander..
I just dont think this is possible in our boats with the available space. I have no idea where I would put that blue victron/charger inverter.

It's only 42' 😀 but point taken. I had a Magnum 2800W inverter in that spot before the Victron, and both are a tight fit. I really wanted the Victron Quattro 120V AC 3000W because it has the auto switch in it for the generator/shore, but that sucker is even bigger and heavier.

Victron does have smaller versions of the MultiPlus https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-12v-24v-48v-800va-3kva, although in the 120V AC range, there's only the 2000W Multi Plus Compact version. It's definitely not as deep, but it is very thin and tall.

The biggest game changer for me wasn't necessarily the inverter/charger, but the alternator+new regulator combo in terms of charging and keeping things topped up.
 
ha! I didnt know you were on this forum Steve!
 
Regarding the water pump, we had a 2012 CW28. There was a switch for the water pump on the wall above the galley sink if I recall correctly. We alway made sure to turn this off unless we expected to need the water.
 
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