TWO IF BY SEA

[norbhat]

We now own what is, by consensus (I don't know how to import one of those faces), the loveliest ship at sea! Her name is TWO IF BY SEA. (See Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, "Paul Revere's Ride," line 10. There are also a couple hidden meanings relevant to us.)

We plan to attend the Inside Passage Seminar in Bellingham the end of March and launch TWO IF BY SEA sometime in April, do a shake-down in May, and do the Inside Passage (to Glacier Bay) June through August.

Our experience is confined to doing the Great Loop. We live in Colorado. We will appreciate any advice.

First question: Does BoatUS towing extend north beyond Nanaimo? If not, what is available?

Oh, she's a new RangerTug 25'.

Norb and Ruth Hattendorf
Boulder (Lafayette really), CO

 

[CaptMac]

Congrats - you are in for quite an adventure. The trip up the Inside Passage is great - especially in a Ranger 25!

It's tough to know where to start. There are significant navigational challenges, running the tidal rapids and crossing two open water passages (Cape Caution and Dixon Entrance). We found access to fresh potable water to be our biggest surprise. Figuring a way to re-fuel a R-25 with the high volume diesel pumps was another (we switched to a large funnel) Once you are north of Queen Charlotte Strait - you are pretty much on your own, and need to be self-sufficient.

There are lots of guide books - some better than others. Even some books with advice on how to run Seymour Narrows & Johnstone Straits. And you'll probably need to spend a few $$ paper charts - and make sure you have chart chips for the area you're going. I hope you have radar (although you can go without if you are willing to wait - sometimes for days..)

You may not know that you need reservations to get into Glacier Bay - and in previous years, it filled up months in advance. There are some great spots to visit - that do not need reservations....

We picked up Island Ranger new in April 2007, and only got in 50 engine hours (breakin) before we left for our cruise up the Passage in June - less than two months later. I don't know the maintenance schedule for the Cummins engine, but I would think you'd like to have the first service complete before you depart. For us, it was a heck of a busy time - rigging and outfitting all the extra stuff we wanted for the cruise - from dinghy to stern tie lines, spare anchors & rodes, spare water and fuel, backup navigation equipment, etc.

Oh, and I don't think there is any towing coverage from Boat US - or anyone once you get much above the Strait of Georgia. Not that it matters much 'cause no one is within VHF range anyway, and there is no cell phone coverage through most of British Columbia 🙂 . I suspect someone else would know more about this than me - but you are correct that you should do some pre-planning for emergencies (don't forget - this is cold water!)

The other surprise for us was how much it rained. Especially around Ketchikan. Incredible.

We had a wonderful trip (we took two months up and back in our 10 kt Yanmar 110 HP Ranger) - and are planning a repeat soon (though not in 2009 - it is tough to leave this area in the summer 'cause it is just so beautiful here as well)

Best of luck,
Mac

 

[norbhat]

Thanks, Mac.

I hear you on Glacier Bay. How do you make a date and still be flexible enough to allow weather to dictate your schedule? Is it possible to do a one day tour on a commercial bout out of Juneau?

. . . and potable water. Does it rain enough in BC to engage some kind of rain catchment to replenish water?

Gosh, and this sleeping doesn't sound like dream-maker stuff.

Norb

 

[CaptMac]

Not sure what you can do about flexibility with Glacier Bay visits. I'd log onto their website and read the latest rules. I forget the web site address, but can find it if you have difficulty.

The water issue - we used it for daily showers, cooking and drinking (yep - daily martinis - what a treat to be able to have ice every day). 30 gallons doesn't last long. You'll have to figure your own water budget and manage it just like your fuel budget. By the way, the shower on Island Ranger uses 1 gallon per minute.

Not all fuel stops will give you water (in BC). Many places, especially any of the stops that aren't on the mainland, will not give you water. and most (all?) have have "cedar water". It's pretty red colored, and they advise not to drink it without treatment though I'll bet everyone does. We were out, so we filled up in Bella Bella and it took forever to flush it out again. There are tons of waterfalls - but you should treat it that before drinking too since it i surface water. Some people talk about buying a water maker - we didn't 'cause we just don't cruise that much. I now carry two spare 5 gallon jerry cans of good water when cruising. The catchment idea would work in Ketchikan - but you wouldn't need it, there is plenty of water available there.

I just love thinking about cruising again...

Mac

 

[norbhat]

Since you "love thinking about cruising," Mac, how many feet of stern line and how do you store it? And is garbage disposal any problem? And how do you import one of these "smilies" . . . I expected to be able to just drag them in.

Thanks,

Norb

 

[CaptMac]

Hi Norb

I can't remember how much stern line - it's either 300 or 400 ft of yellow poly, and I think it is 3/8 inch (or 7/16?) - I'll have to go check. I obtained a plastic line reel - the spool that some lines come on, installed a handle on one side and made a mounting bracket for the cockpit that is nothing but a wooden dowl that slides under the stern cleat with some supports on either side of the gunwale to keep it straight. I store the reel & bracket down below until needed, then slide it on the wooden dowl with large washers to pin it in place. I can't believe I never took a picture and posted it. The line feeds right out the opened stern door, and it is easy to put a bucket under the reel to catch the ton of water that drops off as you wind it in. I didn't mount it on the swim platform because the dinghy is mounted there - on the weaver davits.

I like having the long line so you can wrap the line through an eye (tree or whatever) on shore and bring it back to the boat. I spliced an eye in the end to make it easy to attach - and yet it will not catch when you let go and pull the line in.

Garbage disposal is a REAL problem. Almost no one will take your trash in BC, and those that do will charge a couple of bucks for a small bag. We carried a car top carrier mounted on the sports rack on our first trip, and stored it there. On our last trip (no car top carrier 'cause the solar panels are now mounted there), we diligently sorted garbage (just like home) - cans get crushed, paper gets burned on shore, compostables buried on land (or over the side when underway). Glass, like empty vodka bottles, get carried in a basket on the swim step with the crushed cans. Don't leave garbage out on the swim step - you'll be inviting unwanted company....

Smilies? Don't know, I just typed 🙂

mac

 

[rustednail]

To insert smilies, just place the cursor where you want it and then click one of the smilie icons on the side :lol:

You will notice it inserts the actual text that is converted to the graphics by the forums posting engine. :geek:

Enjoy

 

[norbhat]

Mac, if I brought the tools aboard that I think necessary, I think it would sink the ship. What array of tools do you cruise with :?:

Norb

 

[CaptMac]

Ahh.. sounds like you may need a slightly larger boat to hold all the stuff you'd like to bring. Will we see you at the Ranger 29 launch? 😀

I just bring the basic tools to conduct emergency repairs. I didn't have tools to replace the starter motor for instance, but did carry tools to handle replacing spare fuel filters, impellers, oil filters, hose clamps - those sorts of things. The joy of a diesel - they are pretty robust. Clean fuel and air, with a little oil and they keep trucking. Good thing, 'cause we are cruising around on only one engine! I carried stuff to repair electronics and plumbing, and what I couldn't repair I would carry a spare if it was essential - otherwise we'd do without.

As I read my earlier posts, I realize I've answered based on my style of cruising. That is to "putter" along, stopping frequently searching for isolated anchorages. We originally started doing 80-100 miles in a day but quickly realized we prefered doing 20-30 miles - if any, each day. On our last trip, we went for 9 days before stopping at a marina/fuel stop (and only took 68 liters of diesel!). That's when electricity becomes an issue (batteries do not get recharged when cruising a few hours at 6 knots and running the fridge all day) which we solved with solar panels. Your preparations would really depend on the type of cruising you want to do.

Aside from the engine & steering (and keeping the boat afloat), you can probably manage to do without everything else for the time it takes to get somewhere to get it fixed. Our water pump failed while cruising in the Broughtons, so we had to detour to Port Hardy (about 30 miles if I remember right) to buy a replacement pump. Did you know it is almost impossible to get the water out of the fresh water holding tank without that pump? We started getting pretty thirsty!

So, just think about the systems on board (engine, water, heat, cooking, navigation, etc) and bring tools that you know how to use. Part of it depends on how long you are willing to wait to get things repaired, verses doing it yourself. There are repair facilities in the major cities along the way - it's just that the cities are pretty far apart in BC and we didn't want to interrupt our cruise waiting for repairs...

Oh, and I sure hope you purchased the Y-valve macerator option for the head! 😉

Mac

not aground), you can

 

[norbhat]

That 29' is an awe-ful lot of bucks for an extra 48" 😱 , Mac.

We plan to semi-putter. A couple maybe three day max at anchor.

When you stern tie--we NEVER did in 6,000 miles on the Loop--it sounds like that becomes the primary hold with anchor secondary. Is that true? Someone told me he carries 600' of that stuff.

Do you carry an EPIRB for Inside Passage passage?

We do have the Y-valve macerator. And a generator.

I'm not much of a tool guy. I'll just take a hammer and saw :roll: I like to keep the economy going by paying for simple repairs. Not really! Further, we found on the Loop that there are a lot of macho guys who take pleasure in fixing things for you :mrgreen:

Thanks for your input.

Norb

 

[CaptMac]

Stern tie comes into play for several occassions, though I have never used it as the primary holding for the boat. It is pretty lightweight. Most typically, it is used in anchorages (like Pirates Cove, Snugglers Cove, etc) where there isn't room to swing. The anchorage is well protected and there are eye bolts mounted in the rocks on shore to run the stern line through. It is very common in British Columbia - including the Gulf islands, Desolation Sound, etc.

We've also used it in small bays - to keep from swinging into other boats - or the shore.

And to keep the boat pointing into the waves for comfort - even when the wind or current wants to point you somewhere else.

One other time - when anchoring in a steeply sloped bottom - and you want to be sure the boat doesn't swing and pull the anchor out.

600 feet does not sound ridiculous - that means you can run it to a spot 300 ft from boat to shore tie. But for me, that would be so seldom it isn't worth the cost or space to carry it. And in those cases, I'd just use a single line to shore with what I have. Once I did have to tie together a couple of spare anchor rodes to reach something to tie to - but that was an exception...

Yes, we carry an EPIRB. I happened to get one "free" because we use Island Ranger as a Coast Guard Facility, and they issue one as part of the required equipment. You can rent them through Boat-US if you don't want to buy one of your own.

It does get pretty isolated on portions of the trip up the inside passage. We sometimes went the entire day without seeing another boat - much less a marina. You do need to be somewhat self sufficient. But the anchorages are incredibly beautiful...

Mac

 

[Larry H]

Greetings, Larry H here.

I don't have a Ranger Tug but do have a 37ft trawler and have done the Inside Passage many times.

Some notes on the Inside Passage.

In B C, Canada, the Canada Coast Guard radio covers the main areas. Their signal is loud and clear and they can help with most emergencies or problems. If you stay on the main track, there will be comercial and yacht traffic. Cruise ships, large ferrys,tugs with tows, fishing boats, and fishing transport boats will be seen every day. Canada requires all vessels over 65ft to report to marine traffic control all the way up the Inside Passage. You can listen to Traffic on the VHF to know when and where the big guys are.

Port Hardy is the most northerly town on Vancouver Island and has most supplies you might need and is connected by highway on Vancouver Island to points south. I would refill fuel and water tanks and the food larder there.

The area north of Port Hardy is the most isolated. The towns with services are Bella Bella/Shearwater, Klemtu, Hartley Bay, and Prince Rupert. Shearwater has marine supplies, groceries, and a haul out. Klemtu and Hartley Bay are smaller native (First Nations) villages that have fuel and limited groceries. The longest stretch without fuel is from Klemtu to Hartley Bay, and then from Hartley Bay to Prince Rupert. Prince Rupert is a large city with all supplies available and is the Port of Entry when returning to Canada from Alaska. Prince Rupert is on the main road system and is about 1,000 miles from Vancouver (city).

Cell phone coverage is available near Port Hardy, Bella Bell/Shearwater, and Klemtu. Prince Rupert has cell coverage, but in 07 you had to subscrive to the service in Prince Rupert as US phones would not roam there. After crossing the US/Canada border in the Dixon Entrance, cell coverage on a US system is available. Most towns in SE Ak have cell coverage. Many remote areas in SE Ak do not have any cell coverage

When you cross the US/Canada border north of Prince Rupert, you have to report to Ketchikan to clear US customs. You can also resupply in Ketchikan, where all supplies are available. Southbound, you will have to report in to Canada Customs at Prince Rupert.

You might want to consider taking any spare parts that would be hard to obtain locally. I carry a spare propeller on my 37 ft trawler as is is an unusual size. Float planes can deliver parts to your boat almost anywhere on the Inside Passage but the price is high.

Anchor gear shoud be robust, with 300 ft of line, chain and anchor. A second anchor and rode which can be used as a stern hook or a replacement for the main anchor should be carried. I would consider buying a main anchor one size larger than normal. I like to sleep soundly without worring about the anchor holding. Many anchorages are 50-60 ft deep in SE Alaska.

The docks in BC and SE are usually high wood docks with a 'bull rail' to tie to. These wooden rails can be hard on dock lines. and fenders. I would have fenders and dock lines that are robust, and larger than normal. You may have to raft up with other boats in crowed harbors. Have enough fenders for both sides of the boat.

I hope to see you 'on the coast' this summer as we are planning a SE trip in the Jacari Maru.

 

[norbhat]

Thanks. We'll be looking for you.

Norb

 

[norbhat]

Someone asked for pictures of TWO IF BY SEA. I've attached a couple. They come courtesy of Jeff Messmer. He assures me the boat floats. I don't see photos of boats on trailers, so perhaps TWO IF BY SEA is unique.

Norb