Unknown circuit - 2010 R25 SC

[Gunner065]

Hey folks, as I'm upgrading the manual toilet to a Dometic MasterFlush 7160, I was investigating the best way to wire the new toilet. At this point, my intent is to wire from the Power Distribution Panel (fuse block) located in the cockpit port lazarette.

Over the weekend, I realized that the fuse block already has 2 X 20 amps fuses (Wash Down system and Shower Sump Pump) and 1 X 40 amps fuse. After further investigation, I cannot for the life of me, find the circuit that the 40 amps fuse is protecting (10AWG brown wire). Of note, I do not have any down riggers. Additionally, the previous owners took the 12 volt microwave out. Would the 40 amps fuse been used for the microwave? I took out the fuse, turned on the House switch and powered up every system that I could think off, everything powered up without any issues.

I do have a Ranger Tug wiring diagram for the R25 SC, however, from talking with other owners, they made me recognize to never trust these diagram 100%. On the diagram, no such thing as a 40 amps fuse...

In accordance with Blue Sea Systems, the 6 circuits ST Blade Fuse Block is maxed at 100 amps total, with a max of 30 amps per circuit. Any ideas what it could be protecting/suggestions?

I do have a few pictures in my gallery if it helps.

 

[j&lgray]

Just some ideas to consider:

1. The Wallas stove/cabin heater may take a 40 amp fuse.
2. Downriggers might. The prior owner may have taken all the evidence of them.
3. The prior owner switched out a smaller fuse for a 40 amp - very worrisome.

When you create the opportunity in that fuse block for your new head, that is good source to get power. I replaced the P.O.S. Jabsco head with a Dometic, may be same model as you are contemplating. Good choice. It does use more water which means more pump-outs.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

My 2012 had two 40 amp fuses in the PDP for downriggers that were never installed. I removed the fuses because, unbelievably, the wiring for the downriggers was installed at the factory, but not capped or protected in any way. Just live wiring coiled up.

 

[BB marine]

My 2012 had two 40 amp fuses in the PDP for downriggers that were never installed. I removed the fuses because, unbelievably, the wiring for the downriggers was installed at the factory, but not capped or protected in any way. Just live wiring coiled up.

Bill, I found this early on. There were several electrical options that my boat did not have but were available on my C26. Fluid Motion like any other manufacture makes up a standard wire harness and installs it in the boat. If the equipment is not installed the wires (in my boat) were cut with an open wire exposed. Some did have butt connectors on the ends. All fuses for these circuits were installed but no electrical equipment. When I noticed this I went through the fuse panels and pulled all fuses for non used circuits. My thought was someday I would be chasing a DC voltage leakage.

I did use the downrigger wiring for 12V water proof accessory plugs in the cockpit ( changed the 40amp Fues to 10 amp fuses)

When I moved my batteries I found a number of unused circuits or wires a few were marked some were not. I used the wiring diagram in the owners manual which has color coding to identify the intended use.

 

[Gunner065]

Just some ideas to consider:

1. The Wallas stove/cabin heater may take a 40 amp fuse.
2. Downriggers might. The prior owner may have taken all the evidence of them.
3. The prior owner switched out a smaller fuse for a 40 amp - very worrisome.

When you create the opportunity in that fuse block for your new head, that is good source to get power. I replaced the P.O.S. Jabsco head with a Dometic, may be same model as you are contemplating. Good choice. It does use more water which means more pump-outs.

j&lgray, thanks for the suggestion. I did pull the 40 amps fuse and turned on all equipment that I could think of, including the stove and fan.

I will definitely pull that fuse out and connect our new toilet to that Power Distribution Panel.

Thanks folks

 

[FlyMeAway]

Are you plumbing the toilet for fresh or saltwater flush? If fresh, is it a model with its own integrated intake pump (goes directly to your freshwater tank; this is rare) or teed off the freshwater system somewhere?

If you are using freshwater flush, and it does not have an integral intake pump (rare), it will affect the ideal wiring... Best way IMHO is to wire it to the same circuit breaker as your freshwater system. Doing otherwise can create problems.

 

[j&lgray]

The Masterflush 7160 connects to seawater. Therefore, it is a combination of water pump in, macerator, and pump out.

I have this unit in my Ranger 27. The seawater intake uses the same water intake at the strainer as the engine. I did find that the Yanmar 180 pulls so much water that there was none for the Masterflush. This is only an issue when the engine is running. In that event, we just use the fresh water system and use the shower head to put water in the bowl.

The install is straight forward. There will be some hose parts needed to make the connection to the floor fitting and these were found at West Marine. The unit has a simple electrical switch. I did find that the hose to the holding tank had a substantial sag in it under the sink that was corrected with cable ties and improved the performance of the system.

 

[Diver]

Gunner,
Do you actually have a Owner's Manual for 2010 R-25 SC with a schematic in it? I have not been able to find any manual for the R-25 SC model. None on the Ranger Tugs web site. There is a R-25 manual which I got somewhere but does not have a schematic in it. I do have R-23 and R-27 manuals with schematics. If anyone does have an actual owners manual or schematic for a 2010 R-25 SC I would be grateful if you could provide a copy!
Thanks!

 

[Gunner065]

The Masterflush 7160 connects to seawater. Therefore, it is a combination of water pump in, macerator, and pump out.

I have this unit in my Ranger 27. The seawater intake uses the same water intake at the strainer as the engine. I did find that the Yanmar 180 pulls so much water that there was none for the Masterflush. This is only an issue when the engine is running. In that event, we just use the fresh water system and use the shower head to put water in the bowl.

The install is straight forward. There will be some hose parts needed to make the connection to the floor fitting and these were found at West Marine. The unit has a simple electrical switch. I did find that the hose to the holding tank had a substantial sag in it under the sink that was corrected with cable ties and improved the performance of the system.

Thanks for the info. I already ran the new wiring and will tackle the positioning of the toilet and plan/clean up the plumbing this weekend.