Use of Collinite Metal Wax 850 ?

[baz]

Subject: Use of Collinite Metal Wax 850 ?

I'm getting awfully tired of having to spend time to clean up the weeping brown/redish looking rust that collects at the base of the SS stanchions on my boat. Not only does it look like the boat is bleeding, but looks horrid to the eye.

I've tried several spays and gels, and none really do a good job and consume a fair amount of time; apply with brush or spay on, wait for 10 to 20 minutes, and then scrub, rub at length to remove the seeping rust residue. Sometimes it works but for me, there's always some rust residue remaining.

A friend has recommended Collinate Metal Wax 850... what do others recommend ?

Yea... I know keeping the boat's metals clean is a task requiring periodic attention and some TLC.

What I'd like to use is a product that stops the weeping rust all together, if this is even possible!

Thanks. 🙂

P.S. I have to assume RT does not use 316 SS for the 'metals'; possibly they use 304 maybe, and this is the cause for the seeping rust. No matter, even 316 will rust eventually, so there's really no stopping having seeping rust. I would hope the Collinate Metal Wax might at least inhibit much of the seeping rust.

 

[Brian B]

I use Collonite Metal Wax 850 on the S.S.
I have found that it cuts down considerably on the bleeding of the screws, work it in with a toothbrush around the screws and base of S.S. fittings. I have used rust spray products and they just seem to make them bleed more. On the rails I use a cotton work glove to apply the 850, makes the job go pretty quickly then I come back and remove the wax with a clean cloth.
Davis FSR fiberglass stain remover is my go to for tough fiberglass stains.

 

[Martin610]

I use the Collinite 850 also. It does help. However, I find I also need the Star Brite rust remover to finish the job. Works very well. Here's a link to the stuff I use: https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Rust- ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

-martin

 

[Kimberly Dawn]

I use Barkeepers Friend to clean britework first of any tarnishing (rust, etc), then Collonite 850 Metal Wax... i can highly recommend this process.

Bob
The Dovhouse 2

 

[Catch22]

Eagle One brand Never-Dull wadding /polish along with Collonite 850 on all metal bright work...

 

[BB marine]

Any good sealant wax and protectant will help reduce the rust bleeding from the 304 SS. I use Marine 31 Carnauba wax and sealant on all my exterior surfaces including all the stainless hardware. I see no bleeding of rust except in areas that the salt water can get trapped. This is crevice corrosion. Protectant sealants and wax's will not prevent the leaching of Rust in theses areas. The only way to stop it is to seal the area so water can not get under it and get trapped. The common areas for this leaching is at mounting surface area's. Example : cleats, rail mounts, stainless steel rails where fittings are used or any place there is a 304 fastener that is penetrating the fiberglass and is not properly sealed. The water seeps into these areas and then crevice corrosion begins. The signs of bleeding rust begins in a short period of time. If all hardware is properly bedded this will help more than anything.

I never had this issue having boated in fresh water. This year the PORT-A-GEE has been in salt water area for 6 months. Let the leaching and bleeding begin. I had two coats of Marine 31 on all stainless. It has held up well in my opinion. The C26 has had a lot of saltwater going over the bow. I guarantee there is no area on the exterior of my boat that has not been covered with salt water. It has been windy and choppy every time we have cruised. I do wash the boat down as soon as we get to a marina. None of the stainless steel surface area's show any evidence of bleeding. The only area's of bleeding is at mounting surfaces. Many of the areas show no evidence of bedding sealant between the stainless to fastened mating surfaces. The result of this is water gets trapped under it and the leaching begins.

I would recommend a good rust cleaning product more than a protectant. The only way to stop the leaching is to use a bedding compound or marine sealant and reseal all the areas that the leaching is present. That is not practical but the only way to stop it.

Fluid Motion tends to be a bit stingy during the caulking process. I don't think it is a cost factor or what they expect during the build. I believe it is more of a training issue. It takes practice and training to apply enough sealant, that squeezes out around the mounted surface and looks good. The less experienced technicians apply very little sealant so they don't have to clean the access. The results is gaps under the mounted surfaces and then leaching and bleeding of rust.

 

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Just remember, it's called Stainless, not Stainfree 😉

 

[FWTMD]

I bumped into this, about rust on auto chrome. The point of sharing this is it has a good discussion of the rust stain issues and how / why wax products inhibit that. Not trying to say its better than a marine-specific product of the sorts others are recommending.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7TnNEBy3tI

 

[Captaindeb]

Collinite is excellent. Avoid using the acid cleaners as sometimes this causes weeping later.