Varnish and teak oil

C

captainmike

Active member
Joined
Feb 10, 2011
Messages
36
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLM2105D304
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger M21
Vessel Name
AURA
After 35 years of restoring and maintaining various boats and making my living in the marine industry I use Minwax Helmsman varnish and Minwax teak oil Epifanes is good also but costs 3 times as much and is harder to work with and takes longer to dry.

I have used most varnishes and oils over the years but you can get these at most hardware stores.

Give it a try.

Capt. Mike
 
I just did the interior wood in Little Lady with 4 coats of Cabot Gloss Spar Varnish. (That sure has to be a labor-of-love!)

I prefer the oil-based varnishes over the urethane/polyurethane since they "level" a lot better, especially in warmer temperatures. That means you have to be more careful about sags and runs, but I prefer taking that risk compared to the brush marks and streaks that the faster drying polyurethane finshes seem to have when I am done. I find I can eyeball the surface for potential sags even after 10 or 15 minutes and the traditional oil-based varnishes will let me brush them out without leaving brushmarks. Cabot's seems to be dust free in maybe 2 hours and ready to sand and recoat overnight.
 
An Ode to 2 products that work miracles !

I just had to remove a stainless pin that goes through a blind aluminum housing that is normally underwater good thing I used Tef Gel when I installed it came out no problem.

Any time you use dissimilar metals use a dab of this miracle product.

I get it online.

P.B. Blaster spray it on rusted nuts and bolts anything that needs to be freed up.

Some heat and letting P.B. Blaster soak in has worked when you thought you it was hopeless.

Available any auto parts store.
 
The instructions for DEKS OLJE D1 matte finish say you must remove previous oils or sealers with which the wood was treated, unless DEKS OLJE D1 was there in the first place. This is done via the application of strippers followed by cleaners... My boat, like most but not all Rangers, came with oiled teak inside.

1. Does anyone know exactly what kind of oil teak sealer was used by the factory in 2009 on the R25? Did they use different sealers for different boats/years?

2. David, did you remove the factory finish, or were you able to simply apply DEKS OLJE D1 right over your existing wood finish?

3. Have you, or any one, gone on to apply DEKS OLJE D2 high gloss oil varnish? It is supposed to applied over D1 so this could be a sort of an upgrade for anyone wanting a shiny interior.

Thanks!
 
I got some DEKS OLJE D1 last spring for my teak. My exterior teak had already turned white after one year. I lightly sanded the exterior teak with an orbital sander and applied DEKS OLJE D1 as directed. I think I put six coats on. The teak was still soaking the DEKS up but I quit after six coats. The teak still looks like it was just finished. I now have some D2 and next spring I am going to apply the D2 also. I also plan to do the interior teak. So far, it is the best finish for teak that I have used. I love teak when it is properly finished.

DEKS OLJE is a little hard to find in the U.S. I finally found it at http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/. They do not charge extra for hazardous materials, and they ship promptly. It is a little expensive, but if I do not have to put in all the elbow grease like I have with other finishes, then it will be worth it.
 
We had Karma delivered with the exterior teak in the raw that way there was no finish to remove on the doors. Our doors still look like new after two years. I apply a coat every couple of months when I have a couple of minutes to kill.

As for the interior wood, I am currently in the process of re doing all of it. I simply use hot soapy water to clean it real good, let it dry and apply Deks Olje D1. I do not use D2 as we prefer the matte finish.

What I normally do is wash the wood the evening before and then apply the Deks Olje in the morning before heading off to work. I will leave a couple of roof hatches open to allow Karma to vent. By the time I return each evening, all is good. In the event there is any Deks left on the wood that has not dried, I simply wipe it off with a paper towel.

For those in the PNW, you can purchase Deks Olje at the small chandlery in the Port Townsend Boatyard. I am sorry, I don't have the name of it. However it is the only one in the boat yard. The cost is $32.00 per quart.

I have used this product for 25 plus years and swear by it. As I said in my previous post, it is my favorite.
 
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