Volvo D-4 long term storage questions

[gallatintug]

I have the Volvo manuals, Owner's and Service and Maintenance. The manuals are somewhat confusing to me. I have searched this site for information, but can't seem to find the answers. My new C28 will be stored in my heated shop here in Montana this winter. The engine has 27 total hours on it since I purchased it in early September. The last body of water the boat was in was a freshwater lake. Here are my questions:

1. I was told by the dealer that the engine has "break-in oil" that should be changed after 50-100 hours. Should I change the oil anyway since it will be stored for 7-8 months?

2. Volvo recommend the transmission oil and filter change be done at 25 hrs. Is this the reverse gear they are referring to? My Product Designation from the plate is HS68A-A.

3. Do I need to drain the heat exchanger, charge air cooler, impeller pump, and hoses as recommended by Volvo (referring to 'Seawater")? The engine has been operated the last 8 hours or so in freshwater.

4. I have treated the fuel with Biobor JF and run the engine with it circulated. Besides topping the tank with this treated fuel, is there anything else I should do?

5. I plan to keep the shore power plugged in to keep the batteries charged. I have pulled the bilge fuses to prevent the pumps from their cycling.

Are there any other things I should know about?

Thanks for any help!

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

I had a RT29S with the VP with the D4. In my opinion and practice I’ve always changed the engine oil and oil filters before the long winter storage. It can be a DIY project if you are so inclined. Same with the transmission snd yes you are correct in that it is called a reverse gear. The teams filter is metal so I good cleaning with fuel works. Unless you are having problems I’d leave the impeller alone for now, others may suggest differently. On the hear exchange you could drain it but not necessary in heater storage. As a precaution you could run RV antifreeze thru the engine sea strainer until it comes out the transom exhaust….maybe 2 gallons at most. You might also pull the shower bilge pump spade fuse and or anything else wired directly to the batteries, just in case the power goes off and something connected directly to your boat batteries turns on. If this happens it wouldn’t wear your batteries down.

Jim F

 

[gallatintug]

Thanks Jim. Have you taken delivery of your R23 yet?

Robin

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

We ordered an R25OB, it’s due for completion next month and we are more then ready to get back onto the water.

Jim F

 

[BB marine]

(1) I would change the motor oil now. Let the engine sit with fresh clean oil for the next 7 months.
(2) The transmission ( Reverse gear) should have the transmission oil and filter changed. We use to call it a 20 hour inspection. Engine oil and transmission oil change on a new power plant. The manufactures have extended the service but still recommend X amount of Hours or once a year. In your case it is once a year.
(3) If the boat will be stored inside heated it will not need to be drained. If for what ever reason the building looses heat then you would need to drain the complete raw water side of the cooling system to prevent damage from freezing. I would recommend pulling the hull drain plug and then removing the sea strainer lid. Place a garden hose into the strainer and then start and run the engine. This will flush the lake or river water and warm the engine up so that the engine and transmission oil can be changed properly. Drain and replace filters and oil and the restart to circulate the fresh oil throughout the crank case and transmission.
(4) The use of a good fuel stabilizer is recommended. The fact that the boat will be stored in a heated building a full tank is not rally needed. Because of stabile temperatures in the shop there would be little chance of condensation. You have the tank full so just make sure the additive used will keep the fuel fresh.
(5) There is no need to keep the battery charger on all winter. Keep all battery switches in the off position and all 24/7 fuses pulled. Turning the charger on once a month would be all that is needed to keep the batteries maintained
(6) Pump out the black water tank, Flush with fresh water.

 

[aintmissb]

I’m curious about your dealer’s statement that the Volvo D4 has “break-in oil”. Particularly because I have a new this year D4 myself with 35 hours on it. I haven’t been able to find any statement from Volvo that the oil should be changed as early as 50 hours. Can someone point me to one? And is it the consensus view that it is better to change the oil in the Fall at haul out than to do it in the Spring? My uninformed intuition suggests the opposite - why put brand new oil in your engine and leave it over the winter to gather condensation etc.?

Thanks for any wisdom and input.
Roger Ware
Kingston, ON

 

[gallatintug]

Thanks to everyone for the great information.

 

[BB marine]

Oil accumulates dirt, combustion residue, and acid. Leaving any of these things to settle on your engine’s moving parts over the winter is a bad idea.

Fall is not my personal opinion, almost every owner’s manual recommends changing the oil at the end of the season to lubricate and coat the engine with fresh oil that contains rust inhibitors, which will help extend the life of the engine. While the oil filter works hard all season, changing the oil is the only way to remove the acids that can cause corrosion and other damage to engine surfaces. A fall oil change also removes any water before it can separate from the oil, freeze, and/or cause corrosion.

 

[gallatintug]

Roger,
This information about "break-in oil" came from the Customer Service rep who did our initial orientation. He said Volvo recommends 100 hours and that it used to be 50 hours. He still recommended 50 hours. I, like you found nothing referring to this in any Volvo manual. Side note: I met a Volvo Penta rep at Roche Harbor who I gave my information to and he said "change the oil" before long term storage. I hope that this helps.

Robin

 

[dgiles]

Oil accumulates dirt, combustion residue, and acid. Leaving any of these things to settle on your engine’s moving parts over the winter is a bad idea.

Fall is not my personal opinion, almost every owner’s manual recommends changing the oil at the end of the season to lubricate and coat the engine with fresh oil that contains rust inhibitors, which will help extend the life of the engine. While the oil filter works hard all season, changing the oil is the only way to remove the acids that can cause corrosion and other damage to engine surfaces. A fall oil change also removes any water before it can separate from the oil, freeze, and/or cause corrosion.

While I don't disagree that changing in the oil in the fall is a good idea, as that is what I do, unless you are starting it up and running it after you change the oil, the engine components are not getting coated with new oil. Most simply change the oil and park it. Which is what I do as well.

 

[BB marine]

unless you are starting it up and running it after you change the oil, the engine components are not getting coated with new oil. Most simply change the oil and park it. Which is what I do as well.

You definitely want to run the engine after changing the oil. You would want the filters full of oil and the fresh clean oil circulated through out the complete engine. When I am putting the boat up for the winter both engine and transmission oil and filter changed and both fuel filters replaced then start engine and let it run for a few minutes. Shut it down and inspect for leaks and proper level. That was my suggestion (3) in a previous post

(3) If the boat will be stored inside heated it will not need to be drained. If for what ever reason the building looses heat then you would need to drain the complete raw water side of the cooling system to prevent damage from freezing. I would recommend pulling the hull drain plug and then removing the sea strainer lid. Place a garden hose into the strainer and then start and run the engine. This will flush the lake or river water and warm the engine up so that the engine and transmission oil can be changed properly. Drain and replace filters and oil and the restart to circulate the fresh oil throughout the crank case and transmission.