Volvo D3 ceasing production

[tranmkp]

Was told by Volvo rep that Volvo will no longer be making blocks for the D3

I don’t know how that will effect the used boat market - parts I’m sure will available - but complete engines will soon run out and rebuilds will be the only way forward


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[scross]

That’s never good news for the D3 engine owners. Parts were already really expensive for the D3. This will make parts more expensive and harder to locate over time.
Narrows my next “new to us boat” choice by a couple of models since we intend to keep the “next boat” until we are done with boating! Given the choice, I don’t want going into a decade or so of ownership starting with a discontinued engine.

 

[tranmkp]

I just heard this so its not going to happen overnight - I was just speaking to tech rep about proactive measures to keep the engine running a long time. We are talking about them not making blocks. Take it at face value. Could it have a effect on resale? I dont think so

Make sure you update the ecu - IF there is a current update

Variable vane turbos DO NOT LIKE to be run at low speed putt putting - they need to be run HARD!! to stay clean

Fresh water flush out the engine after each use if you can - salt away works - Volvo nutra salt works even better - it neutralizes salt and protects metal with a residual coating.

Keep a eye on all heat exchangers , look for signs (white lines from dried salt) where sides are sealed - that means salt has worked its way out past the o-rings - dont let go for long - its down to a take it apart and clean or spend 4k to replace all exchangers -

Plus all the other maint stuff...

 

[BB marine]

Volvo Penta never made this engine.The D3 Volvo Penta is better known as the D5 Volvo diesel used in Volvo automobiles. There have been several alterations and upgrades (generations) to this engine and has been reviewed as a good engine for automobiles with quick acceleration and torque from a 2.4L diesel engine. The 5 cylinders made for a smooth running engine. Volvo announced that it would no longer market diesel automobiles in 2020 and cease sales in 2021. The electric motors are the wave of the future. Volvo Penta used this engine to fill the lower HP engine group. It was a perfect engine for smaller water craft. It was a great motor to use in a boat that was normally powered with a gas engine. It is light and turns up quick and will operate comfortably at 3200 rpm similar to a gas engine. When I heard that Volvo was ceasing production of the D5 diesel I figured that the Volvo Penta D3 would follow. I don't think that this Volvo Penta model will fall off the "radar" quickly. I would assume they will reduce the Horse power range which is now 130Hp to 220hp so they still have a midrange lower HP model available. This is just my opinion.

Has far as updates I have not heard of any updates since 2016. I had an update done in August 2016, this was for FOB duplication and also to change parameters in the ECU for cold start up. It reduced the smoking at cold start up.

The VGT (Variable Geometry Turbo) does need to be operated at different speeds but honestly the expression theses engine need to be run hard to prevent the turbo from coking up is not necessarily true. Garrett builds this turbo.It was designed for lower rpm quick acceleration. When the throttle is pushed forward the ECU controls the turbo using a solenoid which operates a valve. There is a vacuum pump that is driven by the cam shaft. The ECU via the vacuum diagram pulls the vanes to grab more engine exhaust and spins the turbo up faster at lower rpm. Once the engine rpm is stabilized the vanes change position and the boost actually lowers. So As long as you are coming off idle and acceleration is used the vane plate is moving. Yes it is a good idea to throw the throttle down once in a while and run in the upper RPM range just to confirm it is operating properly. Running a D3 Hard to save the Turbo is counter productive to the longevity of this engine. This engine was designed for an automobile. It was a responsive engine which would respond to the throttle.It also spends most of its operating at 2000 to 2500 rpm on the highway driving at 70 to 80 MPH. In the C26 that I owned 60% of its operation was at 2250 rpm 7.25 kts. the rest was 3200 to 3400 rpm or idle. At 450 hours I replaced the Turbo because Volvo Penta felt that the oil seal ( metal bushing) had failed. When I removed the turbo and inspected the exhaust vane I found it to be operating correctly and had no fouling. It was black/brown in color. If you want longevity out of this engine don't run it hard.

Flushing the raw water cooling is important. The exchangers are aluminum with some bronze components. No anodes! Fresh water flushing will extend the life expectancy and help maintain the already compromised cooling system. I say compromised because the D3 raw water through hull and strainer installation in Ranger and Cutwaters is not sized properly. There is a 1 " through hull and it should be a 1 1/4" through hull. This is why the operating temperature goes above the recommended 185 degree. Most D3's in Rangers and Cutwaters will reach 193 to 200 degrees which is to warm IMO.

Oil changes, engine ventilation filters and antifreeze replacement on a regular basis is highly recommended. In warmer climates it is recommended to increase the frequency. I spoke with a dealer in Florida last year that told me folks that operate their boats on a regular basis the frequency of maintenance should be increased (D3) oil changes every 100 hours and antifreeze changes every 200 hours has helped increased the longevity. He said they have seen a number of head gasket failures to engines that have not maintained the coolant system. Theses were under 400 hour engines.

If you ever experience a high water level in the engine compartment, Ranger or Cutwater D3 it is very important to remove inspect the raw water pump belt tensioner and have the timing belt and tensioner inspected or replaced. If you do not do this and the tensioner is damaged from water it could result in a engine failure. I know of a few that have experienced this.

Properly maintained and operated the D3 will last as long as most will own the boat and probably the next owner too.

One other important item to do is prop the engine correctly. It is from the factory as you receive it. Once you as an owner take possession and add equipment, gear, tender........, make sure it will turn recommended RPM which is 4000 rpm +150 -100. 170 hp to 220 hp or 3000 +150 rpm 130 hp to 150 hp. For me the - is never used regardless of the engine. It is recommended by all Diesel engine manufactures to maintain max rpm 100 to 150 rpm above rated horse power.

D3 owners IMO you have a good motor that will last 3000 hours plus if maintained and operated properly. Don't worry about resale you have a Ranger or Cutwater. They hold their values.

 

[tranmkp]

Damn BB Marine - you dont hold back, info overload. That makes sense about using the diesel auto engine - still volvo made me thinks. Hearing all you said makes me feel a little better (just a bit) Ill be at the boat this weekend to do some testing to verify for sure if the thruhull is undersized - will also be doing some runs with engine cover closed and open to see about that hot air cant escape issue. thanks for all the feedback

 

[Mr Ben]

So my 25SC has a D3 150. It also has a closed cooling system. Isn't this just a heat exchanger. Fresh cool water in goes through the exchanger and scavenges heat from the engine coolant that shares the same metal box. The 2 never touch each other. So how does flushing this box with fresh water extend the engine life. Its seems if anything is going to corrode or plug up it would happen in the exchanger, pump, or maybe the mixing on the exhaust side. I could see having to replace the exchanger at some point not the engine from salt water corrosion. I do agree the coolant needs to be changed at some interval. I'm planning to do that this spring. Does anyone know if you need the special juice or will any aluminum compatible coolant do the job? My Porche (soon to be replaced with a C8) specifically calls for the factory product or bad things will happen. Maybe being from up north I boat in cool waters. I have never seen the temp above 184. Even running hard pulling the grandkids on the toys 184. When Lake Mi gets up to 80 very rare 184.
I have read that these engines are somewhat disposable. They were not meant to be rebuilt like a truck motor per say. I wonder if there is an alternative in the extreme case of total failure. Does yanmar make an engine that will drop in. Did RT change the stringers and engine bay from the BY to the Volvo? Can we locate a 2.4 block at a junk yard and marinize it? Can I send my boat back to the factory and have it modified to hang an outboard on the back? I personally like the sound and feel of the inboard. I have had a few big outboards fail totally. When I go to Florida I see mountians of discarded outboard engine blocks behind the service shops. I could have gone either way being a little old school I chose the inboard. After spending to much time on the internet sometimes I get a little worried I might have made the wrong choice. Once I get back behind the wheel and rumbling along I'll feel better again. I have no need for speed on the water. Now behind the wheel of that Porsche/C8 thats a different story.

 

[BB marine]

You have a few questions to answer.
Yes it is raw water cooled and the engine coolant does not touch the raw water side of cooling system. The raw water flows through more than one item. The raw water runs into the reverse gear cooler, then cools the air passing through the after cooler enters the heat exchanger and then exits through the exhaust manifold.

A engine operated exclusively in salt water that is not flushed may compromise the after cooler tubes. If a tube over time corrodes and starts to leak, injection of salt water could enter the air induction system and cause extensive damage to the engine. (worst case) The raw water tubes get blocked from the build up of sea critters, and corrosion. This reduces after coolers ability to cool the air to efficient levels and either put the engine into derate or you find reduction in turbo boost and performance.

Reverse gear cooler ,this could effect the engine if it is plugged or corroded. It will reduce water flow to the complete raw water cooling causing an over heat. Over heat an aluminum block, aluminum head diesel engine and you may reduce the engines longevity.

Heat exchanger. This is the heatsink of the closed cooling system . It needs to flow raw water though it without reduced flow in order to maintain the engines cooling system. If it becomes obstructed the engine cooling system is less efficient causing a rise in operating temperature. Heat can be a disruptive enemy to a internal combustion engine.

Exhaust riser leak through can cause exhaust cooling sea water to enter the exhaust manifold. If seawater enters the dry side of the exhaust this can damage the Turbo and possibly get into the engine cylinders which could cause a hydrolock, cylinder corrosion, and damage to internal engine parts.

Each one of theses components noted are part of the raw water system , Aftercooler, reverse gear cooler, exhaust riser, heat exchanger. Price them out ! Theses parts will equal the price of a block. Not cheap! So if you engine block makes it through a poorly maintained raw water system you may still be forking out coin for the bolt on components.

Don't worry about the engine failing and getting another engine. Just maintain the one you have. Believe me if you maintain it. The engine will not be a "Throwing it Away". If you are using it on Lake Michigan it is getting flushed every time you use it with clean fresh water. If you take it to salt water areas for a month or two and then use it on Lake Michigan it is flushed again. ( I boat on Lake Michigan Wisconsin side. I don't think I ever jumped in 80 F water. We were lucky to see 70F. I did have a cooler operating engine on the lake 189F to 193 @ WOT 4130. 184F at 3200 rpm. The D3 150 should not see over 178F WOT if properly plumbed. The D3 220 should not see over 185 WOT if properly plumbed.

Enjoy your R25SC D3 150 hp, maintain it and you will be using it for a long time! No need to look for an alternative power plant.

 

[Mr Ben]

Well Mr B thank you for the insight. I guess I kind of assumed the transmision cooler, turbo etc where on the engine coolant side of things. I thought the raw water just ran in and out of the heat exchanger. I guess being in the fresh water all the time I never really was all that concerned about it. The real concern would also be when winterizing. Make sure enough pink gets through the system we don't have raw water hiding in any of those areas. I am slipped about 6 miles up the Grand from Lake Michigan. The river is 80 plus most of the summer. Lake Mi can get 80 in August. My temps run about 180-184 depending on RPM and load. I always again assumed there must be stat someplace that opens and closes keeping the engine in that range. Who knows how accurate these gauges are as well. I have a hard time putting 100 hours a season on this motor. With proper maintenance I would hope it would outlast my needs. I did the reverse gear last summer but I'm not sure about the O ring we discussed in another thread. Looks like I will be busy once the weather breaks. Reverse gear filter check, new impleller, drain and change coolant. I'm sure thats never been done. I changed the oil last fall. Any suggestion on the coolant type? OEM or will prestone get the job done.

 

[BB marine]

I highly recommend using only Volvo Antifreeze. I used ready mix VCS Yellow. It is pre mixed. If you use the straight Volvo anti freeze it is recommended that distilled water be used. Aluminum block and aluminum head engine !