Volvo D3 Oil Change and Capacity

[Seaquel]

Last weekend I did the first oil change on my Ranger 27 (Volvo D3) that I've now owned for one year. I was a bit anxious having never used an oil extraction pump before, and not being able to actually see the oil filter based on the location just above the alternator, I did not want to make a mess in the bilge (or harm the alternator). The good news is the oil change went well. Note: I did need to purchase a 36MM ratchet head to fit the filter for removal, and placing an absorbent pad and newspaper atop the alternator protected it from a very small amount of dripping. I also purchased an oil sampling kit to have my engine oil analyzed, something that Volvo Penta emphasized at last year's workshop at the Roche Harbor rendezvous.

The only concern I had was that the Volvo manual states oil capacity for the D3 as 6.8 U.S. quarts, and I was only able to extract just over 5 quarts. I put in just over 5 quarts of new oil, and after running the engine the dipstick showed me to be right between the "add" and "full" marks, exactly where you want to be (Volvo stresses not to overfill).

I inquired about the apparent discrepancy, and Tim Bates, Volvo Engine Technician for Fluid Motion promptly responded with the following: "Due to the various sizes/HP of D3 engines, Volvo unfortunately doesn’t give a very accurate capacity for each model. So, it lists the capacity for the D3 as 6.8 US quarts, with a ‘volume difference’ of 1.6 US quarts. Meaning it could be +/- up to 1.6 quarts from the listed 6.8 quarts. When speaking to Volvo, I was told that the capacities listed are intended more for oil ordering purposes, not necessarily exact filling capacities, and that the final oil fill should always be done using the dipstick as a reference."

I figured I could save some anxious moments from fellow Ranger and Cutwater owners if you knew upfront that the oil capacity is approximate. Also important so that when you refill you don't exceed capacity. I hope this helps!

Mark Leopold
Seaquel (R27)

 

[BB marine]

What type of oil did you use ? Manufacturer and weight ? I'm close to doing my oil change and have read so many suggestions. Shell keeps coming up , half the price of Volvo . Price is not the question , best over all is .

 

[Scuffy]

We will switch to Shell Rotella T-6 a synthetic after the next oil change using the 15/40 viscosity which is the same as the recommended Volvo oil. Our tow vehicle also a diesel uses the standard not synthetic Shell Rotella T 15/40 with no issues. Wal-Mart's always seem to have the both types of Shell oil on the shelves. I actually think either of the above oils would do fine. Some have said the Volvo oil is actually made by Valvoline. But that's just rumored.

 

[Seaquel]

BB Marine, I used Delo 400 LE Chevron Oil, which is what North Harbor Diesel in Anacortes sells and would have put in the boat had I not done it myself. I stayed with the SAE 15W40 weight.

I plan to eventually go to synthetic oil, but Volvo recommends waiting until at least putting 400 to 500 hours on the engine first, and I'm at less than 150 hours.

Also, just got my oil analysis results back: since it is my first testing there are no trends to review yet, but they did detect slightly elevated potassium, which may be residuals of a minor coolant leak, or could also have been introduced from external sources. Something to watch, but all else looked normal and more sample history needed to establish a normal wear trend.

Mark Leopold
Seaquel (R27)

 

[BB marine]

Thanks for the information Mark . I have looked at both the Chevron and Shell 15 W 40 maintaining the specs of Volvo. I plan on doing oil analyst too. It's a good way to tract engine conditions before there is major issues.

 

[ohpp]

Mark,
We had the 50 hour service and oil change after we saw you in La Conner and the service teck got 6.5 qts out. Also he recommended that we not do an oil analysis until our next oil change as the new engine would have contaminates that would skew the results. I don't know about that advice but we are going to wait till then to set the base line.

 

[portlandtug25]

Has anyone had problems with the filter cap leaking after a filter change and new o-ring ? I notice that the owners manual says to torque it to 25 nm (25 newton-meters = 221 inch-pounds,) But on the cap itself is stamped 25+5 nm. (no, it doesn't say + or -). So what does the + 5 mean??

Thanks

 

[BB marine]

Proper placement of the o-ring and making sure that the o-ring has not rolled once it is in place insurers a good seat. I torque at 200 inch pounds which is close to 23 newton meters. I assumed that the cap numbers mean +/-. I have nothing to base this on other then if the spec was 30 newton-meters that is what the cap would have on it. It is a plastic cap so I don't think the torque is for stretch ( bolt stretch) and it is an o-ring seal so the torque is not based on crush. I think the torque is to make sure it is tight enough for positive o-ring contact and to stop technicians from over tightening it so it doesn't break. The key is making sure the o-ring does not roll and get a twist in it during installation.

 

[stwendl]

Has anyone had problems with the filter cap leaking after a filter change and new o-ring ? I notice that the owners manual says to torque it to 25 nm (25 newton-meters = 221 inch-pounds,) But on the cap itself is stamped 25+5 nm. (no, it doesn't say + or -). So what does the + 5 mean??

Thanks

If you see only a plus that means to apply a minimum of 25 nm but not more than 30

 

[portlandtug25]

The o-ring is peculiar in this thing: It is a flattened cross section and has a tab for removal, one smooth side and a side with 'grooves' Then there is a channel that about 1/8th inch wide that runs across the width of the ring. a I'm putting the smooth side of the o=ring toward the center of the housing, which is the way it came out of the box. I've fitted the thing carefully and used 220 inch-pounds after turning it down first by hand.a. But after several tries I still get a thumbnail -size leak on a paper towel after 20 minutes of running. The dealer here wants to sell me a new housing ($230!!!) saying that's the only way to fix it. This is the third oil change on this motor. (250 hours total) I'm getting frustrated.

 

[BB marine]

Before replacing I would replace filter and o-ring with a new out of the box. Clean and inspect sealing surfaces of cap and the housing, wipe completely dry and clean both surfaces. Install new o-ring seal as you have done before. Put a small amount of oil on O-ring and mating surface of housing ( taper area of housing ) hand tighten until contact is felt. Torque to spec. test run again. I would replace seal and filter before replacing the housing. If it still leaks there must be a small crack or distorted surface on the housings taper.

 

[portlandtug25]

Thanks for your input everyone. I' m running out of time, as we have a cruise scheduled soon, so as much as I don't want to, I'm having the new cap ordered and dealer installed, because I really don' t want to have a problem with it on the cruise. I don't really see how anything could be this fussy! I've changed a lot of oil in my day and never run into anything like this....maybe has to do with the cap being plastic, dunno. But I can't image this was designed to be replaced every third oil change!

 

[BB marine]

I had the same issue at my 234 hr oil change. And my description of the repair fixed it. It didn't leak much, just a small drop of oil visible on the stringer and just below the threads of the housing it would be wet. I checked it for a month, wiped it dry, go for a run and it would be wet again. It wasn't much of a leak. I removed the cap inspected the o-ring , the fit, and reinstalled, torqued, questioned the torque as you have. still leaked! I had ordered a new filter for next oil change and installed it with new ring torqued to 200 in pounds after 20 hours of average rpm 3400 rpm no leaks at all. I don't think it is a fussy filter, it just has to be installed properly, I'm sure you did, has I was sure I did, and has many have in the past with no issues. I think I had a bad o-ring seal. If you have changed the seal and still have the problem then you have a different issue then I had. Good Luck! Could you post your findings when the new housing is installed? I would be interested in what they find.

 

[danester]

Thanks for posting this topic!

I'm getting ready to order my oils and filter- as I have changed my oil and filter myself the last 2 seasons- and getting ready to do it again for the upcoming winter slumber (2016 CW 26 with D3 220 hp).

This could be the wrong thing to do (yep- a disclaimer! 😎 - but I never used a torque wrench to put the filter cap back on. I would simply smear a little bit of oil on the o-ring, seat the cap carefully, twist on hand tight. Not saying yours will be fine that way, nor would I recommend to anyone to "try this at home"- but so far, knock on wood, it never had an issue with leaks. As far as refilling the block after draining through the dipstick with my handy-dandy Jabsco/ bucket pump ..I figured out that it will never extract all the oil from the pan- and so usually, I only use about 5 quarts for refill- fine all season...

oh..FYI and handy tip....if you use the Jabsco extractor..toss out the plastic straw and replace with a 1/4 inch copper tubing from LOWE'S- will keep you from shearing off any plastic into your oil pan...

 

[msu1966]

Based on previous posts, is Shell Rotella T-6 15W/40 still a recommended oil for Volvo D3-200 engine and is the full capacity at 2.5 gallons?

Thanks, Ken

 

[Gin]

This is an interesting thread that I totally missed when it started in 2016 and continued into 2018. I had a 2013 R27 from 2013 to 2019. The local Volvo dealer did the first oil change at 50 hrs. It resulted in the oil leak at the filter as described in this thread. The dealer tried to fix it unsuccessfully. At about the same time, a fellow Tugnut owner of a R25 (2014 I think) with the same D3 engine had the same experience. The local dealer changed the oil at 50 hrs, the leak followed, and the dealer unsuccessfully tried to fix it through a do-over. Ultimately, for both of us, Volvo had the dealer replace the entire filter mechanism under warranty. No more leak.

I later had a regular service by an independent (and highly skilled) mechanic who changed the oil and filter without any problem afterwards.

So I can't speak to the factors that caused my leak. An error in placing the o-rings? A filter housing defect in design? Some combination? But it does seem that, by now, Volvo must fully understand and know how to avoid the problem. And that those with D3 engines should now be able to get a definitive answer on what causes it and how to avoid or fix it.

Gini

 

[bostonboater]

Hi all -- great thread here -- super helpful -- especially the info about the potentially leaky oil filter housing cap!

As you all probably already know there isn't much info online about the Volvo Penta Diesel D3 200 engines, which is what led me here. My wife and I just purchased a 2015 Jeanneau NC11 with twin 2014 year D3's (D3 200A-G specifically). A close buddy has a Ranger Tug suggested since our engines are the same/similar I include Ranger Tug in my searches.

Question about your choice of oil: My friend is more of a pay-for-service type while I'm a DIY'er. His trusted and well respected diesel mechanic said since the motors are no longer under warranty he recommended Shell Rotella "Triple Protection" T4 15W40. My understanding is that's a conventional/synthetic blend. It seems as in this thread you're recommending T6, full synthetic. Anyone use T4 or can tell me why we should avoid T4 and go with T6? (The Volvo VDS4.5 seems to be a conventional/synthetic blend as well, and is what's recommended.) We have the T4 and we're doing the oil change on Saturday (2 days from now) so there's still time for me to make a change if warranted. (Note, Home Depot had a great price on the T4, better than any of the auto shops! Second only to Walmart by a few cents and HD was far more convenient!)

Also -- for oil filters, what make/model have you gone with? The Volvos (part/kit # 30788490 as far as I can tell) seem to be hard to find around here (Boston area) this time of year and others have suggested using Napa Gold #7186. I prefer to find Wix or Fram but am having issues doing so. Any advice? What do you use?

Thanks in advance for lending a hand to a non-TugNut who appreciates the Ranger Tug and has a boat with two of the same/similar engines as you all!

By the way -- in response to the OP -- my experience working on other engines is that you'll never pull out all the oil because some will be lower than you can get to down in the oil pan, some will be in the oil cooler, and some may be in the oil filter (although I realize these are mounted to drain out) as well as in various lines throughout. 5 out of nearly 7 quarts doesn't surprise me -- and at least now I know what to expect!

Thank you all!

 

[Gin]

Hello Bostonboater! Sorry, I don’t have answers to your questions. But I did want to welcome you aboard. Someday you’ll have some knowledge to share with us, so it all evens out. Good luck with your questions.

Gini