Waste overboard y-valve on 21ec

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jimackert

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Joined
Aug 12, 2010
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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C SE
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2137B808
Vessel Name
Lil' Green Tug
MMSI Number
338138895
I know this topic has been discussed for other Ranger Tug models, but my question is specific to the 21ec. My boat has a marine head with holding tank and macerator pump. There is an overboard discharge and a deck pump-out fitting, but no y-valve. How do I secure the head as required by the Coast Guard and the Florida Wildlife Commission to prevent overboard discharge? This is a big issue in Florida, apparently, with hefty fines for violations. Hoping the factory can recommend a cheap solution.
 
Jim:

The fellows at Ranger Tug have been at boat shows almost non-stop since mid-January and I'm only guessing but they probably have not been reading the Tugnuts forum. In light of that I'd suggest giving Kenny or Andrew a call at the factory to try and catch them. If not immediately available I'm sure they'd give you a call back to help solve and or answer your question on securing the overboard discharge for your R21ec. Let us know what you find the answer to be.

Jim F
 
Thanks, Jim. I just sent an email to Ranger Tug. I'll post their reply.
 
We got stopped last year by the Coast Guard for an inspection. As part of the inspection, the Coastguardsman asked to see our Y-valve for the black water tank. I pointed out to him that I had a guarded switch on our electrical panel that guarded against accidental discharge from our tank and if I truly wanted to violate the law I could do it reqardless of the valve being closed by simply opening it. After a brief conversation, he agreed that the switch guard was enough to assure that there would be no accidental release of black water.
Bob
 
Given your experience, Bob, I'm wondering if simply pulling the fuse out might be enough.
 
Can't understand how there isn't a Y valve. I removed the section of hose from the Y valve to the overboard port and bought a rubber tip (similar to what you'd find on the end of a cane) and then put a hose clamp around the rubber tip.
 
I emailed Ranger Tugs with this question. Here's their reply:
"Thank you for the email. Our new Ranger 21's have a ball valve on the overboard discharge line. Our recommendation is that you add one to your boat. You can then close the ball valve and remove the handle which will then satisfy the Coast Guard and Florida Wildlife commission."
Looks like an easy and inexpensive solution. Thanks, Ranger Tugs!
 
My R21 EC was made in 2010 and has a Y-valve. It is under the starboard bed cushion. I bet if you look under that cushion, you would find it. Ranger certifies that on the date of manufacture, the boat complies with all US laws and regulations. You can use either a plastic tie of a padlock to secure the valve. I would recommend a padlock because some states require the valve to be "locked".
 
I probably should have mentioned in my previous post that each area is different. Here in the Washington area if you go up to B.C. Canada, they allow pumpout in certain waters. This makes it different from other areas in other States (like the Great Lakes and other inland waters). I would highly recommend you check your local rules and make sure you comply and ask what is required to secure your tank.
Bob.
 
As a followup: close inspection of my 2008 21ec revealed that the macerator pump connected directly to the above water line through hull fitting without a ball valve. I installed a light weight y-valve in the 1-inch hose with one side leading overboard and the other side capped. Entire installation cost about $95 from West Marine. I had an extended email discussion with Florida Fish and Wildlife and the conclusion was that simply removing a ball valve handle, locking the electrical switch or removing the fuse wasn't enough. They wanted to see a valve in the discharge line with a non-removable wire tie securing the handle in a closed position. Apparently how the rule is enforced is inconsistent.
 
How come you used a Y valve and caped the end instead of using a single line ball valve which would have been much cheeper. And now you have to worry about that cap falling off and making a mess.
 
A surveyor friend (over 20 years experience, and one of the best regarded in the PNW) has told me that Y valves are "nothing but trouble" and not needed in most sanitation systems, even though routinely installed. My friend, at least, would second the single line ball recommendation. Falls into the FWIW category . . . your mileage may vary.
 
I disconnected the line to the maceratoer and capped it, making it impossible to dump overboard. GA requires it to be impossible to dump overboard in inland waters.

gene
 
Yeah, you're right,Todd. An inline ball valve would have been a better solution. I was limited to what West Marine had on hand. They had a bronze in-line ball valve, but it was very heavy especially with the two 1-inch bronze hose fittings and more costly than the y-valve. Since I was splicing into the middle of the hose, I didn't want all the weight banging against the hull. Also, the light weight marelon y-valve was very easy to secure in the closed position with a wire tie. The ball valve handle would have been perpendicular to the line and hard to tie off. The original installation had the hose attached directly to the 90-degree hose fitting at the through hull. I couldn't get the hose off the thru hull, so I elected to splice into the middle of the hose.
If you can find a light weight nylon or marelon ball valve, I'd say that's a better solution. I have removed the fuse for the macerator pump, so accidental discharge against the cap shouldn't happen. I have no plans for being 3 miles offshore where it is legal to discharge overboard, so I don't expect I'll ever need to untie the y-valve and use it. :roll:
 
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