Waste Tank Odor

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C

coreychamness

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
216
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Vessel Name
Tugs 'n Kisses
MMSI Number
338175171
I installed a Big Orange filter in our R-31 underneath the fridge as several had suggested. When I flush, odor emerges not from the filter or its connections but from somewhere else - likely in the vicinity of the tank connections themselves. Does anyone know where you can access and reach the connections for the waste tank in a R-31? I would bet it is same as a 29. I can see the connections reside almost directly under the steps to the v-berth.

Corey
 
I had a similar issue as I have the big orange. Check the gasket on the big orange to make sure it is fully functional. Hope that helps
 
After a lot of troubleshooting I know way more about the waste tank and plumbing then I ever wanted to know. Pray that you never need to replace the vent hose at the tank connection. that is unless your are made out of rubber. Most of the access to the other lines is easy. My Big Orange filter had a defect in the joint between the top and the side. It had an air gap. Unfortunately it was extremely difficult to discover. If anyone purchases a big orange filter, make sure the upper portion is airtight. Customer service was extremely responsive and immediately shipped a new filter. Only after 5 hrs of tracing, sniffing and flushing though.....
 
I just installed a "home made" filter. I used the directions on this sight. I was pleasantly surprised on how good it worked. The R27 tank is easy access. I replaced the vent hose, just because, and I used sanitation hose. How would you know your Big Orange is air tight? Was there a crack?
 
the filter has two major pieces. A hollow top piece that contains a bypass valve and two chambers with hose attachments and a detachable bottom part that is filled with a huge quantity of charcoal. The top piece had air-gaps at the seam where the top part attached to the sides. the seam was glued or plastic welded except for the crack. I tested by plugging the holes in the top part and pressurizing. You have to plug the bypass valve too since it is specifically designed to "leak" when necessary because the filter is plugged up or something.
 
Sounds too complicated to me. I use 2" PVC and 2 connections, filled it w/charcoal and installed it in line w/the vent hose. Yes, it is disposable. From what I hear, it should last 2 or 3 years. I'll live w/that. It took me 30 minutes to build and $30 in parts and charcoal. It would be $50, if you don't have the proper tap. Just a hacksaw, a drill and some PVC glue is all you need.
 
I guess, if it gets plugged up, the tank will get pressurized and smell. When you unscrew the cap to pump out, it will be under pressure and "really" stink. That's when you make a new one!
 
Last week I took a 2 year old Dometic waste tank inline filter and rebuilt it. I sawed the original PVC apart about a 1 1/2 inch down from the end fitting that connects to the overboard vent. I emptied the old "activated charcoal" out, took the two black foam filters out and cleaned and sanitized everything. I purchased a $2.00 2" double female PVC connector and a 22 oz. container of "Activated Carbon Charcoal" from a pet store. I installed the 2" PVC connector to the longer PVC piece, inserted the foam filters and filled the larger end of the PVC up the center of the 2" attached PVC connector. I the pushed the shorter PVC end into the female connector. Although when reassembled it presents a very tight fit I wrapped aluminum foil tape around the 2" PVC seams. Total cost $20.00 and I have enough activated material left over to rebuild 2 more times.

Jim
 
Has anyone tried using the chemicals that are sold for use in RV holding tanks? It has the double benefit of reducing odor and breaking down solid waste.
 
I have used both Marine and the RV product you mention with no noticeable differences. With that said we have a macerator just below the bowl of our toilet that does the solid waste breakdown so I wonder why one would need a chemical solid waste breakdown product in addition? I would agree that without the macerator/grinder the solid waste breakdown product makes good sense.

Jim
 
Grinding stuff into smaller pieces and chemically breaking it down do yield different results. The stuff we've been using completely liquefies the contents if give a couple of days to work. I suspect with the macerator the chemicals would work even faster. I doesn't deodorize the contents completely for sure. I thought perhaps it would limit the off-gassing that seems to be the source of offense. At any rate we've got a couple of bottles of it lying around so will likely use it up.
 
After reading a little about the Noflex Digestor and other similar products it would seem these would also work to clean the walls of our black water tanks, making it easier to gauge their fullness. Any thoughts and or experience?

Jim
 
The Noflex works very well in cleaning the interior of the tank--add crushed ice, go for a ride---works as a mild abrasive---melts--all good.

Regards
 
Salish Rover":to5t3ome said:
The Noflex works very well in cleaning the interior of the tank--add crushed ice, go for a ride---works as a mild abrasive---melts--all good.

Regards
Click to expand...

Kathy Wilson you are my hero!

I just dumped a big pot full of ice in my camper along with bleach, dish washing detergent and a gallon or so of water. I'm sure Noflex works better in a boat but you can't corner in a boat or swerve through a parking lot like you can in a camper to get the abrasive action of the ice. My holding tanks have never been so clean.
 
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