Water heater - winterizing question

Gin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2012
Messages
874
Fluid Motion Model
R-31 S
Vessel Name
Echo II (2019)
I'm working on my checklist for winterizing procedures. We plan to use the boat through much of the winter, and keep heat aboard (in the engine compartment as well as the cabin) at the dock. But we likely will err on the side of caution and winterize the water, head, and raw water pump systems . If there were a power outage and we were to loose power at the dock in a bad freeze, we could quickly winterize the engine, and have everything else done. Meanwhile, for our winter purposes, we will be fine without the other systems.

I've read everything I can find on the forum about winterizing, but nothing that suggests what the Seaward water heater manual advises about winterizing. It says to run antifreeze into the holding tank then through the system at each faucet. Then, after turning off the faucets and the pump and leaving the faucets open, "Locate the water drain and pressure relief valve and let all water drain from water heater until empty. Leave water heater drain and pressure relief valve open over winter.

I read different advice about whether to drain the water heater. But I haven't seen anyone say to leave the drain and pressure relief valves open all winter. Does anyone do that? Is it unnecessary? Anyone think it would be ill-advised for any reason?

Gini
 
I hate trying to get the antifreeze smell out of the system. What I do is disconnect the lines from the water heater and insert a piece of pipe so I can join the lines together thus by passing the tank. Then I open the drain and the pressure release valve on the tank and leave them like that until spring... I drain the main water tank then remove the pick up line from the pump and connect it to a tank of plumbers antifreeze and run antifreeze through the system avoiding putting antifreeze into the water holding tank .. You should put antifreeze into your water tank as you can not drain it like the water heater tank , but I seem to never get the antifreeze out of the system for weeks in the spring so I take a chance. Assuming the bit of water left in the water tank has lots of room to expand when it freezes.. I don't advise this but is what I do..
Make sure what ever you do you feel comfortable with so you are not worrying about it all winter
Good luck
 
Irish Mist, you must not be the only one that hates the smell of antifreeze from the hot water tank -- I've read other advice that is similar. Where we are (Oregon) we run smaller risks than many of a deep freeze. So this might be a good way to go for us.

Don't you have the same issue with the antifreeze smell/taste in the fresh water holding tank? If so, any solution?

Stuart, interesting cite. Thanks for the links!

Gini
 
Automaticman865":25vraff7 said:
This site has pretty good information.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wate ... interizing

Also check out the tips on bedding hardware.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Stuart

Agree with you Stuart. I found this site through C-Brats years ago and started using the Butyl tape for bedding compound on deck hardware. It is SO much easier and less messy than the Boatlife, 4200/5200, caulk-type materials. Plus NO WASTE as with the tubes of 4200, etc that go bad after I've used just a tad.

I don't have a water heater on my boat, but I've had them on RVs before. I've always wondered why "bypass" kits aren't used so you don't have to fill the water heater with antifreeze. Bypass arrangements are commonly used on RVs. I see Irish Mist describes making a bypass for his water heater.

The pbase website also has a tutorial on how he repacks the stuffing box on our inboard type boats. Very interesting.

Fair Winds,

/david
 
If you drain the hot water tank for the winter you might want to put a piece of tape over the circuit breaker so it does not turned on by mistake.
The electric heating elements will burn out very quickly if there is no liquid in the tank 😱
 
I bypass the water tank as well and just drain it no antifreeze.. Then in spring I fill it up and flush everything then reconnect the hot water heater.. The risk being possibly splitting the water tank but there is very little left after it is drained . The Hot water tank drains completely so it is ok provided you don't turn it on empty.
 
This thread is persuading me to bypass the hot water heater on the antifreeze. If I do that, do folks recommend leaving the valves (drain and pressure) open? I can't imagine how it would NOT be a good idea . . .
 
On larger ships , drain our the potable water system at the lowest point. Reinstall the drain plugs and use compressed air to blow any water left in the system at each faucet , out hose bid outlet. Remove the plug and reinstall in the spring.
 
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