Water no longer coming out with exhaust on 2013 R21EC

D

DMcD

Active member
Joined
Oct 27, 2019
Messages
32
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
We have a 2013 R-21EC that’s been in fresh water since we’ve owned it (6 years). Yanmar has 690 hours on it. Tried to take her out Sunday but noticed that water was not coming out with the exhaust as usual. Returned to slip and revved up the idle to higher rpm but still no water in exhaust. Gave up on boating and came back to troubleshoot. Replaced impeller (the old impeller was still intact, but was 2 years old so went ahead with replacement) to no effect. Confirmed hydrostatic water flow at antifreeze tap-off next to sea-strainer and that sea-strainer was clear. Disconnected hoses on either side of water pump and blew through, sensing no resistance in either. What’s the next thing to check?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Exhaust elbow, lower 128370-13610
Mixing elbow, joint. 104214-13580
Gasket, exhaust elbow 128370-13201
Hatton marine & Industrial
4735 Shilshole ave nw
Seattle, Wa 98107
Phone (206) 283-5501

Or it could be your heat exchanger is plugged! You will have to pull the exhaust elbow to get to the heat exchanger so I would start there first
Best of luck troubleshooting. Bob
 
A stupid question!
But is your raw water valve open?
 
DMcD said:
yes - i should have mentioned that was the first thing I checked
Click to expand...
bob daily said:
A stupid question!
But is your raw water valve open?
Click to expand...
I don't know if it's standard equipment, but my boat has a 'T' in the raw water line right after the sea strainer with a cap on it, which I use when winterizing to get antifreeze into the raw water side of the system. With that cap off and the raw water valve open there is enough hydrostatic pressure to force water up and out of that 'T'. This gave me confidence that inlet in the hull wasn't overly fouled .
 
You never mentioned any temperature rise?
 
good point. I don't have a temperature gauge. I think I can somehow show the temp on the helm console instead of engine hours - I'll look into that. The overheat alarm did not go off, but I did not run it very long once I realized water wasn't passing through.
 
Before tearing things apart, I would check the water lock ( starboard side of engine compartment aft) looks like a gray plastic box) they are known to crack and leak into the bilge.
Removing a few hoses you should be able to narrow the problem down!
Usually the raw water will decrease over time and not stop all at once.
It’s a simple system from the sea cock to the strainer to the raw water pump to the heat exchanger to the mixing elbow to the water lock and then out the exhaust!
If you have water on one side and not the other I would guess that’s the problem!
Hope this helps you troubleshoot. Bob
 
VP D1-30 engine on mine so may not be applicable to yours but I had the same issue twice where it wouldn't self prime. Took the cap off of the strainer and kept strainer full with a bucket of water. It picked up and pumped out the water. Replaced the cap and it was fine after that. Not sure why it would not pick up from the short run to the sea cock but wouldn't on those two occasions. Good luck with your troubleshooting.
 
I want to thank everyone for all the suggestions. I haven't had a chance to investigate further as I am moving house this week, but when I do I will be back either with more questions or reports of success.
 
Newf said:
VP D1-30 engine on mine so may not be applicable to yours but I had the same issue twice where it wouldn't self prime. Took the cap off of the strainer and kept strainer full with a bucket of water. It picked up and pumped out the water. Replaced the cap and it was fine after that. Not sure why it would not pick up from the short run to the sea cock but wouldn't on those two occasions. Good luck with your troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
I would concur with Newf. Just loosening the cap works too. It did when we encountered an air lock.

Kevin
 
Finally found time to follow up on all your suggestions - moving house takes all of your spare time for awhile! Found the problem with the help of a former tug owner at my marina. He was just commenting on the tug and that he used to have one, so I described my problem to him and he offered to help troubleshoot.Solution: The belt that drives the water pump had worn off all its 'teeth.' The outer layer of the belt was still intact and sitting on the pulley so it wasn't obvious that it wasn't doing any work until someone with confidence reached in there while the engine was running and put his finger on the belt. Got a new belt ordered. Now I just have to figure out how to get it in there! Couldn't find any how to videos online. Do I have to loosen the raw water pump mounting bolts to get the new belt on ( I didn't see any sort of tensioner pulley)?
 
On mine (yanmar 3ym30) it looks like if you remove the alternator belt first you could slip the pump belt in behind the pump.
Do you have a part number for the belt?
 
vmelarry said:
On mine (yanmar 3ym30) it looks like if you remove the alternator belt first you could slip the pump belt in behind the pump.
Do you have a part number for the belt?
Click to expand...
the belt that was on there was a Mitsubishi M-19. Guy at my local Nappa parts store matched it in his system to a differen brand, but it looks to be the same size.
 
So, I was able to replace the belt and the water is flowing again. I'm not confident about the belt tension. I had to remove both bolts on the bracket that mounts the pump to the motor in order to get the new belt on. The lower bolt of that bracket is hard to access and is on a slot instead of a hole to allow adjustment of the belt tension. But I was working alone and am not that strong so I couldn't get much tension on the new belt. I'm wondering how critical it is, if in fact, it is pumping water.

Thanks for any advice
 
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