Weaver Dinghy Davis R27

[Smcavana]

We're the new owners of a 2011 R27 Classic, and we're buying a new Achilles HB 240LX to replace a Portland Pudgy sailing dinghy. The dealer tells me we need to replace the existing swimstep Weaver davits with the offset davits (4" up and 4" out) for the dinghy to clear the fenders on the aft end of the swimstep. I'm sure I've seen a number of Classic 25''s and 27''s with inflatables and the davits we already have, although probably just as many with the offset davits. Our questions: should our existing davit work? If so, are there nevertheless advantages to the offset davit that make them preferable? Thanks for any insights from the collective wisdom on Tugnuts!

Michael & Susan Cavanaugh
Anacortes, WA

 

[Red Raven]

Yes, I think you will definitely want the offset davits. We have the same boat just south of you in Coupeville. We have the offset davits and still had some issues with the dink hitting the waves at speed in rough conditions. Without the offsets you will be limited to lower speeds and calm conditions.

Since we are so close by feel free to PM me if you ever need help with anything.

Curt

 

[Smcavana]

Thanks, Curt. As sailors for almost 40 years, we're used to going slow and kind of like it. But one of the attractive things to us (among many) of the Ranger 27 is the ability to scoot across the Georgia Straits, for example, if weather is coming. So I'm sure we'll take your advice about the davits. So wonderful to have a committed group of owners willing to share their knowledge!

Well try not to overuse your generous offer to share ideas. One of the things that concerned us about raising the dinghy on the swimstep was visibility. Do you have a backup camera?

Maybe we'll see you on the water soon. Thanks again.

Michael & Susan

 

[Red Raven]

Our davits have a quick release and slide right out. If your boat has the same then you should be able to just switch to the longer davit with no mod required. Of course, the eyes on the dinghy have to be mounted to match.

I do have a backup camera but often don’t use it. In most cases I just stick my head out the window or have the first mate watch things. After a while you just know how long your boat is! In very tight quarters I would definitely turn it on. We went for two seasons without the camera with no problems. Really not an issue. Some folks add a rear view mirror to the Starboard bow rail instead.

 

[Seaquel]

Michael and Susan,

We have a 2013 R27 Classic, and keep ours garaged at our home in Anacortes. We use two different dinghys interchangeably- the Ranger RIB and a Walker Bay RID Sailing Dinghy (w/flotation collars). We use the offset Weaver davit for both, works great.

If you want to check them out, we are close by on South Fidalgo Island.

Best of luck, you will love your R27 Classic. Best boat we’ve ever owned!

 

[Smcavana]

Thanks for the follow-ups from our fellow R27 owners in this part of the world! We'll go with the offset davits. Unfortunately, we don't have the quick release mountings, so the yard will have to replace what''s there. Not sure if the mounting holes are the same.

Another dinghy question: what size outboards do you use for your RIB? How do you store it when the dinghy is is on the swimstep? Do you have a lift system (like the Forespar Nova Lift) or wrestle the OB by hand?

Michael & Susan Cavanaugh
Anacortes, WA

 

[Cutwater28GG]

I went with the suzuki 2.5hp. its only 29lbs. I mount it on the cockpit rail and I can pick it up with one hand.

I came to the realization that my use case for the dinghy is pottering around the marina or going between mooring ball/Anchor and shore. in these cases I don't need to plane so a 4hp is over weight and overkill.

 

[Red Raven]

We have a 6hp that we keep on the swimstep rail. The 6 hp is overkill for the dinghy for most purposes and a bit of a challenge to manhandle back and forth to the dink. We went with the 6 hp for two reasons. 1) Because I like to go out myself and get it up on a plane to go exploring and set crab pots etc. It will plane with one person but not two. 2) It is our last resort to power for the tug to get to safety in case of a engine failure via a mount on the swim step. Probably too small to do much good but it was our thought at the time.

Unless you want to go in the dinghy with one person up on a plane and can handle moving 65 lbs to the dink I would recommend the 2.5hp. The 4 hp will not help for either use model.

Curt

 

[Seaquel]

I went with the suzuki 2.5hp. its only 29lbs. I mount it on the cockpit rail and I can pick it up with one hand.

I came to the realization that my use case for the dinghy is pottering around the marina or going between mooring ball/Anchor and shore. in these cases I don't need to plane so a 4hp is over weight and overkill.

We opted for a 2.5hp for identical reason, plenty of power for short trips to shore. However, we did the Yamaha 4-stroke, and I assume the Suzuki weighing just 29 lb. is a 2-stroke. Primary trade-off is the 2-stroke is lighter (the Yamaha 4-stroke is about double the weight); but the 4-stroke is much quieter. Always a trade-off, so depends on what is important to you.

We also mount the Yamaha on the aft cockpit rail, but takes two hands (not just one) to lift. If needed, can install a small lifting crane, but don’t feel it is necessary today (but may change my mind in ten years).

While we are happy with the Yamaha, we use our kayak and SUP board far more, especially for longer excursions as we like the exercise. We also row and sail our two interchangeable dinghys. May consider changing to electric Torqeedo eventually just because we rarely use the Yamaha, so considering benefit of even lighter weight, even quieter, and eliminating gas on board our diesel boat.

 

[TABublitz]

Curt,

Your input and pictures are great to reference as we newbies find our way. We have taken possession of our R27 late last summer and enjoyed 50 hours on her before the cold weather settled into the upper Midwest. We had a roll up dinghy, that I have decided to change out to a rigid aluminum bottom 8’ dinghy for this season. I plan to mount the mentioned Weaver 4” up, 4” out davits. Any advice or tricks on mounting the davits or tie bars for keeping it upright? I also like your set up on the swim platform rail for the outboard. We have a Honda 2.3 HP that we plan to start with and see if that satisfies the “needs”. Any tricks would be great to have. One month, and we head south for a long week on Kentucky Lake for some warmer weather.

Thanks
Tim

 

[Red Raven]

Curt,

Your input and pictures are great to reference as we newbies find our way. We have taken possession of our R27 late last summer and enjoyed 50 hours on her before the cold weather settled into the upper Midwest. We had a roll up dinghy, that I have decided to change out to a rigid aluminum bottom 8’ dinghy for this season. I plan to mount the mentioned Weaver 4” up, 4” out davits. Any advice or tricks on mounting the davits or tie bars for keeping it upright? I also like your set up on the swim platform rail for the outboard. We have a Honda 2.3 HP that we plan to start with and see if that satisfies the “needs”. Any tricks would be great to have. One month, and we head south for a long week on Kentucky Lake for some warmer weather.

Thanks
Tim

Hi Tim,

The aluminum bottom rib is a good choice for going ashore especially in rocky conditions. One tip for the dinghy tie bars is to mount them such that they can be stored against the stern of the tug when not in use. I have seen this approach on newer tugs. Unfortunately it was not done this way on our tug. We have to store the tie bars in the cockpit when not in use. I haven’t wanted to add additional holes in the gelcoat to change to this approach on our tug. Another tip is to add straps from the rigid dinghy hull to the tug to lift and stabilize the dinghy.

Curt

 

[Smcavana]

We have a 6hp/RIB on our sailboat for just the same reasons Curt outlined, but we also have an outboard lift to handle the 60 lbs between the stern rail where it's stored and the dinghy. We're at the age now where we're one back injury from being out of boating, so we decided to go with a 3.5hp Tohatsu on the R27, which weighs the same as a 2.5hp (40 lbs.) but gives us a little more power if we have a problem with the Yanmar and need to get somewhere we can anchor safely to wait for a tow. If the 3.5 doesn't work out, we'll revisit the idea of a lift, like the Nova Lift or Folbe Crab Davit, and probably go back to a 6hp.