Weed clogged engine cooling intake.......

[Baetz]

Weeds were drawn in to the engine cooling intake resulting in engine overheating due to restricted water flow in my R29, 2012. The overheating occurred at RPMs over 2200, below that the engine didn’t over heat.
The solution was to lift the boat out of the water and clear the weeds in the intake. This solved the problem completely.
Does anyone have a method of clearing the intake without lifting the boat out of the water?

 

[Pilotnavigator]

Try to back flush the strainer with a hose.

 

[dclagett]

The first year we had our boat it was a constant problem ingesting weeds, etc. Most of the debris clogged the oil cooler and the clam shell raw water intake. I redesigned the raw water intake using a wedge scoop with screen and a clean out prior to the strainer. See pics in my album. No problems for the last 2 years after implementation of the new design. With the screen I have not needed to use the clean out.

 

[Chimo]

The first year we had our boat it was a constant problem ingesting weeds, etc. Most of the debris clogged the oil cooler and the clam shell raw water intake. I redesigned the raw water intake using a wedge scoop with screen and a clean out prior to the strainer. See pics in my album. No problems for the last 2 years after implementation of the new design. With the screen I have not needed to use the clean out.

I've looked at the photos and that's a really interesting modification. I've not had a problem up to now but I may think about this as a "nice to have" when I hold the boat next summer. Back flushing with the boat in the water and the factory set up doesn't seem to be an option but with your different through hull I could imagine that you can close off the seacock, remove the plug, attach a hose and pressurize before opening the seacock. Do I have the sequence correct?

Thanks

 

[Red Raven]

I have back flushed our boat at the dock with city water through the sea strainer with no problem. Just keep the seacock closed until you have the strainer cover off, the screen removed, and the hose ready with a 1/4 turn valve on the end. Quickly open the seacock and put the hose in the input side of the sea strainer and turn the water on with the 1/4 turn valve. What little water that comes in before you get it flowing the other way is pumped out by the bilge pump. If things go south just close the seacock.

Of course you can always dive under the boat as well with a mask and snorkel to clear it. I’ve done that as well! 😀

Curt

 

[dclagett]

Chimo,

I installed the clean out for use with wire or snake with tweezers to grab the clog. I have tried to back-flush with little success. With the old setup the only fix for a Chesapeake clog has been to hire a diver or haul the boat. I would dive myself however we have these pesky things called sea nettles. Even the divers using a wet suit complain about the stings. So far I have not needed to to use the clean out since the screen has not allowed and debris into the raw water system like the slots in the original clam shell.

Also the clean out allows for easy hose connection when using fresh water flush or winterizing rather than pouring fresh water/antifreeze into the multi port strainer.

 

[doke01]

I learned my lesson on this after having to climb out of the boat in the middle of nowhere, in freezing water, as the tide was rushing in, to pull weeds out of the raw water inlet. I did some research, and a local builder of Lobster boats recommended completely cutting off any filter or screen since the weeds usually get tangled in it and they are a part of the problem. So I did, and now just have an open inlet hole, flush with the hull. I keep a wooden dowl on board the diameter of the inlet, close the valve, pull the hose, open the valve while pushing the dowel through, no more clog. Since I've done this, the number of times I've ingested seaweed has significantly dropped (which the builder said would happen), and the few time it has happened it has taken me only a few minutes to clear, without getting wet and no chance of hypothermia.

It also works anywhere. No need to have a hose to backflush or pull the boat from the water.

Oh, and if you have an earlier R25, as I do, the raw water intake goes straight into a 90-degree bronze fitting. I changed that to a straight-through fitting. This aligns with ABYC rules as well, since ABYC worries someone will step on a 90-degree fitting and break it off.