What do you do on a regular basis to maintain your RTs?

[Boris the Tug]

Sorry if this is a common question, but does anyone know of a good guide that can tell me what maintenance I should be doing on my Ranger Tug on a regular bases? Or is there a service manual I can purchase for a 2008 R21-EC?

Other than changing the oil every season and checking fluids, I'm not all that certain what else I should be checking regularly for proper upkeep. The manual I got with the boat (bought used) is really just like a start up guide, there are no tech specs or anything very useful. I'm a pretty handy person I've replaced a few motor parts on this boat myself already, I just need some direction.

What do you do on a regular basis to maintain your RTs?

 

[Pilotnavigator]

On my 2015 21EC every fall I change oil, and all filters, 2 fuel and the oil filter. I change the impeller too. After 300 hours I changed the belt. Also pressure wash the hull. In the spring I wash and wax the boat. Winterizing in the north is a different issue and has its pun check list.

 

[RockGuy]

Thanks for posting this. We just bought a 2009 21EC and I had exactly the same question.

 

[bob daily]

Prior to each start up check oil, check or clean water strainer, check bilge area for foreign objects
IE candy wrappers,fishing hooks etc.

Annual / spring start up
1 charge batteries ( replace house every three years, starting every five )
2 replace fuel filters (two)
3 replace air filter
4 change oil in motor and transmission and replace oil filter
5 replace water pump impeller (keep old one for spare)
6 degreaser engine and wash/flush bilge area (check bilge pump and float switch for proper operation)
7 flush /clean fresh water tank (bleach) check water pump for leaks and clean filter and areator on
Faucet
8 inspect engine belts and hoses replace or adjust as needed
9 inspect all electoral connections for tightness and coat with elect spray (batteries a must)
10 inspect all electoral equipment and lights for proper operation, horn, wipers,GPS radio etc.
11 check deck equipment, lines, fenders,boat hook etc.
12 when boat is in water and running check stuffing box, adjust as needed
13 wash and wax (put teak oil on wood items)
14 don't forget boat trailer! Tires, lights, berrings and breaks
15 load fishing equipment!

I'm sure I missed a few items, but you can add or delete as you see fit. This is what I do when I take the cover off after the snow melts. You can't avoid breakdowns but you can limit the number of them with a little pre planning.
Now go hit the water and have fun. Bob

 

[bob daily]

One other thing about boat maintenance, other that bottom paint and zinks etc. Is I keep a folder for a reference, of manuals and parts that I've ordered and when I see something on this site that pertains to my boat. I copy and place in folder for future reference. This has saved me many hours of troubleshooting and looking up parts and suppliers.

Just because I give advice doesn't mean I'm smarter than you.
It just means I've done more stupid stuff than you.
Bob

 

[Boris the Tug]

Wow that's great Bob thanks so much. Has everything Pilotnavigator pointed out as well. I have a similar folder and I just printed two copies of your list, one for my folder and another on the boat. I also got motivated and found the operations and service manuals for my motor as well.

I want to start with #2-5, replace fuel filter, air filter, oil change and filter, and check/swap impeller.

I tried Googling oil change for a 3ym30 but didn't see anything. Any advise for a first timer doing this oil change? Do I need a siphon or can I catch the oil another way?

Hey RockGuy, here's the links to the manuals I found in case they're helpful for you.

Yanmar 3ym30
Operations manual
Service manual
Parts catalog

 

[bob daily]

For removal of oil, I use a 12 volt oil transfer pump hooked to the battery and extract through the dip stick. You can get a nice little pump on Amazon for about $20-$30, depending on your preference.
The biggest mess is removal of filter, which can be minimized by placing lots of paper towels in bilge area under filter. Note: this is why I always degreaser engine and wash bilge area after service.
Good luck

 

[Fisho]

All good suggestions. From my end I have gone through all the posts on Tugnuts that refer to a 21EC and those related or common posts, and you will have a very comprehensive list of all the maintenace steps and issues. Everything from engine maintenace and particularly impeller issues and fuel filters, fuel tank issues, flushing engine and heat converter, exhaust issues, stop cocks, steering issues, autopilots, to anchors and winches, mooring tips, launching and retrieving, to batteries, to leaks, anodes (a big deal), lights, horns, hatches and windows, bedding options, refrigerator, fresh water tank maintenace, bilge pumps, fuses, battery maintenace and options, battery charging options, stove options, CO Issues, heater problems, chartplotter and sounder, ballast and stability, radio and MMSI, repairs to fibreglass, polishing, customising options, teak wood maintenace etc etc. All excellent. It is all there. Also read the detailed YANMAR manual, read it again and again, and summarise and read again, and you will pick up more and more tips and understand more. As suggested keep your own list and regularly update it. It might take a year or 200 hours on boat but keep at it and soon you will be very competent. Very important to also have a friendly boat/maintenace shop/mechanic that can help as required. Lastly, as already mentioned, if you use a trailer and keep your boat on it much of the time and tow it regularly, brakes, bearings, tyres, springs, lights, connections, rollers, bolts, welds, etc are equally important to servicing engine/boat, if not more important. The bolts can loosen and the supports move with potential for damage if not fixed. Before every long trip a full check of the trailer is essential. This may mean taking off wheels, hubs and checking bearings and seals, and possibly regreasing. I always travel with spare hubs, brake pads, bearings, grease etc and of course appropriate tools. Sounds overkill but in trailer boating on long hauls it is the weak link. Happy cruising on your 21EC - an amazing boat that is worth all the effort. Enjoy.

 

[Boris the Tug]

That’s a good list fisho.

Hey guys for the oil change, in addition to siphoning out the oil from the dipstick, do you put a pan underneath and drain the remainder through the plug? If so what kind pan do you use? Seems like it would tricky to get something to fit under there or get it out without making a huge mess.

Also what does it mean to change the transmission oil versus changing the motor oil? Are you talking about lubing the gears in the transmission? I didn’t find it in the service manual, but my eyes are a little blurry right now.

I’m going to use Del 400 30 for the motor oil (which is what the previous owners of my boat wrote in the log book), and then use Delo 400 15W-40 for the gearbox (which is what I read on another post here). Does that sound about right?

If it helps anyone else, below is the kit that I found that has everything for the filter changes, impeller, and belts. I spent the last hour looking these things up individually and then found this kit at the end! The kit is right around the same price as buying the parts separately so seems like a no brainer. I suppose you could save a few bucks by going with aftermarket, but it’s only a few dollars less. Is there any reason not to go with Yanmar Parts? I saw someone recommend Wix oil and fuel filter, but it was only a few bucks less so not sure, maybe it’s just preference?

Yanmar 3YM20 3YM30 Maintenance Minor Kit SK019 119305-35151 104500-55710

AIR FILTER ELEMENT 128270-12540
OIL FILTER 119305-35151 or 119305-35170
FUEL FILTER 104500-55710
FUEL FILTER O-RING 24341-000440
IMPELLER 128990-42200
IMPELLER O-RING X02173476
V-BELT WATER PUMP 104511-78780
V-BELT ALTERNATOR 119831-42290

 

[rpmerrill]

All very good stuff here. One thing I didn't see.
I bring home all my lines and bumpers. I fill a trash can with water and some Dawn and soak them all for a few hours and them scrub them to get all the salt and much off. Maybe a little Clorox if they are really mucky. Then a good rinse and hang them out to dry thoroughly. Obviously a good chance to inspect and repurpose some of your less dependable lines. I forget who taught me that.

I just remembered that I didn't do my entire anchor rode this winter. Chain and line. However, every time I rinse off the boat, I always flush the anchor rode locker with fresh water and I monitor the flow out of the drain. When I bought my boat (used) I had a lot of muck and chain corrosion products in the locker. Drain was plugged. Keeping it clean could save you an ugly problem. (Took my chain and had it re-galvanized. Much cheaper than new chain.)
Side note: I have upholstered the bottom of the locker with Dry-deck which should help drainage and drying of the locker.

 

[Boris the Tug]

Good point about the anchor locker rp. I know mine has to be getting gunked up because I live on the California Delta (lots of muck!).

I've made good progress, did the oil change yesterday, the impeller, and the air filter.

I now want to do replace the fuel filter and bleed the line. Step 1 in my manual says to "close the fuel cock of the fuel tank". I don't see any way to shut off the fuel, it's just a hose coming out of the tank. Should my 2008 R21EC have this fuel cock located at the tank?

 

[bob daily]

Give me a call and ill send you a picture
Having trouble getting pictures posted
Bob @ (509)539-5509