Windlass Fail

[bradlail]

On fishing trip now and Windlass has stopped operating on my C28. I hear contactor when I hit switch but nothing at windlass. Motor? Hoping for quick easy fix to get back to fishing! Any suggestions appreciated!!

 

[Shano]

There should be a large fuse, probably 40 amps, that is reset able. I’m not sure where it is on your boat but it may be red and have an arm that swings out from the body of the fuse when it is tripped. It will be labeled. The fuse block will be about 2” x2” if it is the one I am guessing. How is the fishing going and where are you fishing? If it is not the fuse then check all of the connections to make sure they are tight and smell any of the contact areas if possible to see if any overheating.

 

[bradlail]

Not the fuse. It never tripped and I manually tripped and reset using the red button several times. Fishing Pamlico Sound in NC for bull redfish. Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[knotflying]

Check all your connections and make sure they are clean. If they are check your solenoid. If accessible clean the contacts. If you can't get to them you may have to replace the whole solenoid.

 

[SLyle01]

Our windlass fouls every few seconds: chain jumps the 'teeth', then line binds repeatedly. Nothing works well either dropping OR retrieving the anchor. Windlass doesn't seem well designed. Basically I have to squat at the bow and manually clear the line every few feet...forget the "remote windlass" operation. Is there a lubricant missing?

 

[Chimo]

Our windlass fouls every few seconds: chain jumps the 'teeth', then line binds repeatedly. Nothing works well either dropping OR retrieving the anchor. Windlass doesn't seem well designed. Basically I have to squat at the bow and manually clear the line every few feet...forget the "remote windlass" operation. Is there a lubricant missing?

We had a similar experience when the boat was new. The line had a few hockles, probably from being wound on the drum before installing. I took the boat to deep water and let out all the rode. After about 15 mins I hauled it up and then repeated. No issues after that. I know the Chesapeake Bay and finding a 250 ft deep spot may be difficult. You can achieve the same result by laying out the rode on the dock or lawn and manually twisting out the hockles but it’s not as easy.

I’m assuming you have a similar, if not identical, layout for the anchor rode locker. When you have all the rode out retrieve from the bow and watch how the rode lays in the locker. It should naturally coil. With such a lot of rode out you will have to stop and push it off to the sides periodically or there’s no room for the next run. Just push the pile so you don’t get it tangled. When you get to the 50 ft chain you should have a pretty clear well for that to drop into though you may have to push that as well.

I agree that remote retrieval is not practical if you’re anchoring in, for the Chesapeake, deep water but you should have no issues dropping the anchor from the helm.

Hope this helps.

 

[Chimo]

On fishing trip now and Windlass has stopped operating on my C28. I hear contactor when I hit switch but nothing at windlass. Motor? Hoping for quick easy fix to get back to fishing! Any suggestions appreciated!!

Have you looked at the chain under the windlass? I don’t know the C28 setup so this may be irrelevant but make sure that the chain isn’t kinked and jammed before it goes into the gypsy. It won’t deploy if that’s the case but simply “click”. Same idea if you’re trying to retrieve and get the click. Is the rode spread out in the locker so that there’s room for more to be added?


Just a thought

 

[Chimo]

Not the fuse. It never tripped and I manually tripped and reset using the red button several times. Fishing Pamlico Sound in NC for bull redfish. Thanks for your thoughts!

Just wondered what the outcome was? Both you and sLyle01 had similar issues and there were several suggestions. Just thinking whether we could learn for the future.


Thanks

 

[SLyle01]

Windlass is apparently fine...not the problem. The installed 50' of 5/16" anchor chain is generous, but WAY beyond the USGC guidelines of "9' of chain per 3' of hull". An RT27 should have about 3x9 = 27-30' Max. chain on board, especially since the anchor locker is too small for the provided chain and rode, contributing to all the twist and repeated binding/windlass fouling.
Also the standard anchor-to-chain U-buckle actually is a major CAUSE of the fouling. I replaced it with a good-quality DOUBLE SWIVEL...problem solved.

 

[SLyle01]

P.S. As Pocket Yachts suggested, I secure the anchor at the bow with a short piece of line and slightly relieve the pull on the windlass. A small, cleat is provided, adjacent to the windlass for just this reason. Should improve the life of the windlass motor/clutch. Makes it a checklist 'reminder' item to UNcleat the line -if planning to remotely drop anchor from the helm.

 

[bradlail]

My connections, relay all good. Full voltage to Windlass. Windlass had gone bad. I was within the Lewmar 5 year warranty period, but as a 2nd owner they balked on honoring. I had boating plans fast approaching so I replaced with same windlass. I have official service center information to send the defective windlass. They told me they would repair at no charge. Been riding around in the back of my truck for 4 weeks.....

 

[scross]

SLyle01,
If USCG recommends 9 ft of chain for each 3 ft of hull then the RT 27 should have 81 ft of chain. That’s 27 ft hull divided by 3 ft per section (which equals 9 sections) times 9 ft of chain per section gives 81 ft of chain. So 50 ft of chain sounds under stated if that USCG rule of thumb is correct. I've read that you need 1 ft of anchor chain per 1 ft hull length or 27 ft for a RT 27.

We use 60 ft of chain and 200 ft of rode with a 22 pound Rocna anchor on out RT 25 based on belief that more chain equals more weight on bottom which means better holding. We use 8 plait rode to minimize twisting and maximize storage in anchor locker. Will be adding good Mantus swivel this winter!

PS Edited to correct basic math error!

 

[Pilotnavigator]

9x9=49 is strange math?

 

[bob daily]

Someone needs to take their shoes off prior to doing math! That way there are more digits to help with! You just made my day, you guys are too funny. And I was worried that I was swimming in the shallow end of the gene pool.
Bob

 

[scross]

Yeah, I should not be posting today. Family member diagnosed with cancer this morning....Can’t even do simple math!

 

[SLyle01]

Still confused (ok, MY math was fouled up) because IAW USCG recommendations, my old 19' runabout would be carrying (19/3=6.3*9=57) FIFTY SEVEN FEET of chain (not including anchor LINE)....Where would it even be stowed??
I believe the USGC is addressing commercial vessels, not us recreational folks...or possibly the equation was copied wrong?

Even 50' still seems like a lot of heavy chain for our "8000+lb." R27....and 81 '? No.
Chain keeps anchors flatter to the bottom, but should the length be related to WEIGHT vs. hull-length?

 

[knotflying]

As far as I know the formula is a pretty easy - one foot of chain for every foot of boat. More chain will obviously lend itself to better holding, but there is a trade off between better holding and weight. Knock wood, as long as I have been boating the formula has worked for me. I have been in some pretty gnarly conditions and have never dragged. I did once when rafted to another boat, but it wasn't my anchor and we were pretty careless in not letting out enough rode.

 

[Chimo]

I think we’ve gone over this before. For me the reference work worth reading is https://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php. I did find the move to a Rocna 10 on our R25SC made a dramatic difference. With that and the standard 50’ chain I feel really confident. I haven’t found any issues that would lead me to install a swivel but maybe I haven’t been paying attention.

 

[knotflying]

Good info. Sounds like a good anchor with proper scope is more important than amount of chain. I always try to get 7:1 ratio, buy I'm on the east coast with shallower depth than the PNW.

 

[SLyle01]

shackle [/i] actually is a likely CAUSE of the fouling. I ORDERED a good-quality DOUBLE SWIVEL...problem solved?

CORRECTION: Intended to say "USCG guidelines seem way beyond actual NEEDS of RTs." 1 foot of chain-1 foot of hull seems more reasonable, but still begs the question why RT installs 50 FEET of chain?

Also, I ACTUALLY haven't been able to install the new double-swivel since the OEM shackle seems 'welded' in place. Some blue thread-lock prevents removal (no way to get enough torque on the flat side to work it loose). SUGGESTIONS??