Winter project Cutwater tender

BB marine

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
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Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Grady White 208
Vessel Name
PORT-A-GEE
In a quest for the perfect tender I decided to try building one. We had a Gala 270 RIB. Awesome tender but slightly large for a 26' long 8.6' wide boat. To heavy and sat to high when using weaver davits. Aft visibility was lost. I sold the RIB and purchased a F270 Gala( high pressure floor roll up) for a backup ,very nice tender and weighs half of what the RIB did. It is still wide and when set up on the Weavers aft visibility is reduced considerably. My conclusion was to try to build a tender that is the exact dimension of the transom so water spray off the hull doesn't hit the tender while cruising. The tender needs to light but interior space is enough to hold 4 person, easily rowed, a small outboard can be used on it. The width is 4' or less so aft visibility is not reduced when using the Weaver davit system. I found a tender plan designed by Arch Davis. He supplied me with all the drawings needed to build the tender. I wanted to build a tender that was close to the design of a Portuguese skiff to match the our boats name( PORT-A-GEE).The tender I built is similar but it is a V hull, Portuguese skiff flat bottom. I measured the transom of the C26 8'1", I also measured the location of my installed weaver davit on the swim platform so I could reinforce the sides of the tender in the right location for hardshell dingy weaver brackets. The tenders dimension is 8'1" long and 48" wide. I installed two sets of cleats to the Cutwaters transom for the weaver standoffs. One set will have the tender mounted vertically on the swim platform which will be 52" high using the other set of cleats will have the boat sitting at a 45 degree angle reducing the elevation to 36" high giving me aft visibility. The designed weight of the tender is 50 lbs, The as built weight is 75lbs, I added a few extra supports and a thicker transom to support an outboard. It is designed to be sailed. I did not install the dagger board. It is not a sailing tender. I posted a few pictures below and a few of the build in my album. I have a folder with the complete build. It is not a stitch and glue it uses the tradition build which required building a "mold". It is all screwed and west system epoxy was used. The Hull is made from marine plywood and all support components are pine keeping the weight down. All wood after being fit was sealed all for sides with epoxy sealant, primed, stained, vanished or painted using all marine grade products. I can't comment on how well it handles or if it fulfills my wants. I can say it was a fun project for a person with average to below average wood working skills. That would be Me!


The topsides are primed ready for finish

The hull is painted to match out Cutwater, white boot line

White topside, boot line, interior varnished 7 coats, Transom stained and varnished 7 coats
 
Very Nice Work!
 
Looks great!!
Hope you can get it out of the basement in one piece.
 
Wow, that looks great! Looking forward to seeing photos of it mounted and in use!
 
nailed it! thats impressive and I think you are underselling your woodworking skills!

I have considered this so many times with almost identical design constraints as you incorporated. id probably add the sailability to mine though. I love the idea of being in an anchorage and going for a nice gently sail ghosting around a bay.

interested in the stability once in the water with the narrower beam
 
Katmat":1vydb1i1 said:
Looks great!!
Hope you can get it out of the basement in one piece.

This was checked early on. My family kept asking "Are you going to flood the basement to use your tender?" :shock: . When I built the mold which is very close to the same dimension of the completed hull. My wife and I carried the mold out of the basement to determine if this was a garage project or basement. We managed to get it out of the basement. After the hull was built and pulled off the mold we once again carried it out of the basement with success and then put it in my 8' bed truck to see it it will fit. Yes it fits with slightly more then a paper thickness maybe .005. It fits!

Cutwater28GG":1vydb1i1 said:
interested in the stability once in the water with the narrower beam

I'm interested too. The beam is actually more then most 8' prams or tenders. This was a component that was important. The interior dimension of the tender is actually 2' more then 5 '7" width Gala Rib. The bouncy tubes made up most of the beam so we will have more room. I compared the chine width to the Portland Pudgy, that many give high reviews. The Portland chine width is 49.4" widest point. The tender built is 46" so Portland 3" more. I'm hoping the beam is sufficient for stability.
 
This and all your other projects prove that you are the living embodiment of, “Necessity is the mother of invention.”
 
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