Winterize R31 review.

barling

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2019
Messages
96
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Bristol 29.9
Vessel Name
Barling
I know it is a bit early, but since this is my first time on my own, I've ordering a stock of parts a material to winterize the boat.
Does anyone with a fresh water R31 simply winterize the fresh water system by placing a bypass on the hotwater heater, draining it into the bilge by releasing the pressure valve and then opening up all fausets to drain the tank, and thereafter put a gallon of 100 % propylene glycol into the fresh water fill and 4-5 gallons of -50% and then run the galley sink, the head sink, the shower, the cockpit sink and the stern shower, both hot and cold until strong pink in all?

Thereafter the toilet system: pump the holding tank and try to get them to flush it good(?). dump a gallon of -50 down the toilet in the second stateroom and flush the toilet a couple times and then dump 2 gallons down the forward head, getting it to flush and then open up the overboard valve. From here do you really have someone hold a container over the discharge (which one) or shove a hose over it and then push the holding tank button down until strong pink comes out(really?)) My need more until pink comes out.

The two AC's: Close the discharge lever and Open up the AC strainer and dump 1-2 gal of -50 into it until pink come out of both places.

After the engine is still hot, suck out old oil, remove and install the two oil filters(oil on filters) and install about 3 gallons of oil (a bit less at first allowing oil to drain down) up to 3.2 gal, traking time to not overfill....and start the engine and check oil after allowing time to drain down. Check oil level,

Run the generator until hot. Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Add oil and checking until the right amount is in, without overfilling.

The washdown pump: It seems on my 31 the pump is a part of the main engine pump, so close the discharge lever for the engine, put a hose on the pump discharge, open the engine strainer and pour -50 into that part of strainer while the pump switch is on and someone watches the discharge from the hose on the pump until strong pink appears.

The engine: While the strainer is open and the discharge lever is closed, start the engine wnile someone pours about 4-5 gallons of -50 into the engine strainer from a large container until strong red comes out of the exhaust. Close down the engine.

The generator: Close the discharge lever, open the generator strainer, start the generator and pour -50 into the strainer until strong pink comes out the discharge. Shut down the generator. open all levers.

Dump -50 into the bilge pump until pink comes out of the starboard discharge.



After boat is pulled, screw out the boat drain.
 
Sounds good just a couple things.
After I pump fresh water dry I connect hose to water pump and into antifreeze and then do the taps . Saves getting antifreeze into water tank..
you shouldn’t need 5 gal to do the engine. Also there is a drain in the bottom of the muffler for the engine good to drain that

I also vac out the bilge then dump some antifreeze in the bilge to winterize pump.

Dump antifreeze down shower drain for shower sump

For toilet I dump antifreeze in sea strainer and let it pump into toilet

Disconnect batteries when done.

And yes you are early 🙂

Good luck
 
I was told the factory no longer puts drinkable antifreeze in the fresh water tank for winterization as it leaves a residue, while safe to ingest, is hard to completely remove even after repeated flushes of the fresh water tank.

I believe they are using pressurized air to blow the fresh water out of the lines, including the water heater.
I don't know if there is a video yet of this newer procedure.

I believe the other procedures for winterization as shown on the Ranger Tugs video are still the same.
 
A few extra thoughts. For the freshwater I use compressed air to blow out the lines and then use a small amount of antifreeze. But, we have an older boat that has a dock side water hose connection and use a Camco fitting on the connector (the dock side water connection is not recommended to use, but that's another well discussed topic) Always allow excess antifreeze to run into the bilge with the bilge plug in place and the at aft pump fuse removed to winterize the forward, backup pump. Once the forward pump kicks in and discharges the pink then reinsert the fuse to activate and winterize the primary (aft) pump. If boat is used in salt water run barnacle buster or salt away per instructions before winterizing. Coordinate winterizing systems to utilize the excess/ overflow antifreeze to winterize the bilge pumps as previously described to reduce the amount needed. You can use and spend a lot on antifreeze for your fresh water system, and if you do you'll spend a lot of time and water flushing in the spring. Can we stop talking about winterizing in August :lol:
 
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