winterizing

J

Jon

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
62
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Anyone have any advice on winterizing an r-29? I plan to put it in storage the end of September and was wondering if there are any options other than filling all the systems with antifreeze .

Thanks,

Jon
 
Jon:

This is what I recall Ranger gave me as a list for winterizing....

Winterizing Procedure

Head - Close multiport thru-hull seacock. Fill multiport strainer with RV antifreeze. Operate toilet until pink antifreeze appears in toilet. Flush to ensure lines to holding tank receive antifreeze.

Wash down system – Ensure multiport strainer seacock is closed. Add RV antifreeze to multiport strainer. Turn on wash down pump and allow to pump until antifreeze shows at spigot.

Engine – Ensure the multiport seacock is closed. Utilizing a helper, pour RV antifreeze into the multiport strainer as you start your engine. Run the engine until pink starts coming out your engine exhaust
overboard discharge. Leave seacock open when these first (3) procedures are finsished.

Holding tank - Empty holding tank. Pour 3 gallons of RV antifreeze into waste pump out fitting on deck. Operate macerator switch until pink antifreeze shows at thru-hull.

Fresh Water system – Empty all water out of the tank by pumping it through the faucets. Ensure the hot water heater is also emptied. (use faucets to empty or drain valve at hot water heater). Add RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank through the fresh water deck fill fitting. Turn on the pump and open all hot/cold faucets until pink antifreeze is showing. Ensure the hot water tank receives antifreeze by operating the faucets in the hot position also. Also be sure to introduce antifreeze into the city water inlet by pouring fluid through a funnel into the city water connection.

Bilge pump – Ensure keel drain plug is installed. Pour antifreeze into the bilge and run the aft bilge pump until pink is showing at the overboard thru hulls. *Note: The attitude of the boat may require more or less antifreeze to reach the bilge pumps.

Air Conditioning - Remove the hose from one end of the seawater intake filter. Using a funnel pour antifreeze into the hose and operate the system until pink shows at the air conditioning overboard discharge. Make sure to leave seacock open when finished.

Generator - Remove the hose from one end of the seawater intake filter. Using a funnel pour antifreeze into the hose and run the generator until pink shows at the generator exhaust overboard discharge. Make sure to leave seacock open when finished. *Quantities of antifreeze are approximate and will vary depending on boat attitude, spillage, etc.. It is important that antifreeze reaches all systems that can freeze. When in doubt use more antifreeze.
 
Drag it to Florida.
 
To add to Barry's thorough list I found on our R27 (may not be the case in your R29) I had to buy a hand pump so I could pump anti freeze into the forward bilge discharge hole on the side of the hull. The reason for this is because you just can not get enough anti freeze into the bilge to activate the pump. I also use the hand pump to force a little anti freeze into the black water discharge hole on the side of the hull and into the dock side fresh water hook up.

Jim F
 
One other thing that I came across recently was the drain plug at the base of the large gray exhaust/muffler tank. This should be opened to allow any water residue remaining in the base to spill out into the bilge and pumped out. Turn it anti-clockwise to allow the water to drain out, and be sure to close it clockwise afterwards.

See http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5373
 
I bypass my hotwater heater so I'm not putting antifreeze in there Just open the drain and the vent. . I don't advise this but I drain my water in the water tank and do not add antifreeze into the water tank I personally feel a bit of water in a plastic tank will not hurt anything when it freezes.. I have had no issues in 3 years..or with my other boats... But I don't advise this Just saying what I do, as I hate trying to rid the system of the antifreeze...instead I disconnect the lines before the pump and pump it through the pump and then through all the taps. The plumbers antifreeze is hard on the rubber everything. My A/C and generator I do while the boat is still in the water by disconnecting the hoses to the threw hulls as I tend to leave the boat in the water well into the cold season . I use the head occasionally all through the winter using antifreeze for flushing.. Again not advised but it's what I do .. Hopefully this year I can get it south before it freezes and save all that work 🙂
 
baz":36x8173a said:
One other thing that I came across recently was the drain plug at the base of the large gray exhaust/muffler tank. This should be opened to allow any water residue remaining in the base to spill out into the bilge and pumped out. Turn it anti-clockwise to allow the water to drain out, and be sure to close it clockwise afterwards.

See http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5373
Click to expand...

Hello Barry,

While there is nothing wrong with draining the muffler as you recommend, it is unnecessary if the engine has been winterized. If the "pink stuff" has come out the exhaust, then the muffler is full too (and thus "winterized").

I choose NOT to mess with the muffler drain so I don't LOOSE that darn TINY cap. The first time I discovered it, I was afraid my ham hands would drop it into the inaccessible regions of the bilge before I could get it screwed back on.

Fair Winds and Easy Winterizing,

/dave
 
Dave: Yes, you are quite likely smart in leaving that hard to see and hard to access exhaust/muffler drain plug/cap alone. 🙂 I only mentioned it as I believe many people are simply unaware of there being a drain plug/cap in that inaccessible location. I've had my R25 for 5 years now and only in this past month did I discover it. 😉 😱
 
Barry , Dave, didn't I tell you the 21s were assembled by Kebler Elves :lol: ........ nobody can get a normal sized hand on the 21 muffler drain plug. Dave is right though ..... if you see pink coming out the exhaust the muffler is protected ... Fran
 
Personally, I do not like to use that pink stuff in the fresh water tank. I drain the Hot water heater and gravity feed anti-freeze into it until it comes out the drain pink. I blow out the lines with compressed air. One faucet at a time, hot & cold. (Then I label the hoses with my Brother label machine.) And the engine, where I live it gets pretty cold. At least one week long each winter it will get below 10 degrees and stay there. I use the higher freeze rated stuff. I believe it goes from -50 to -100. But also, the label says you shouldn't use that pink stuff in an engine. Something about aluminum?? I only go by the label. As far as a bilge pump, I have been boating for 25 years and I never winterized the bilge pumps?? Just my opinion.

Chester
The Pug's Tug

 
I had to change the capacitor in our Mase genset on our R27. I had to remove the wet exhaust before I could take the left side cover of the genset off. It had maybe a half gallon of water in it. I think this could be a problem for those of you that live in the colder climate as it could freeze and crack. I don't have to winterize, so I'm not sure if this matters or not.

Tim
Gratitude
 
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