Y Adaptor/Spliiter

T

trailertrawlerkismet

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Feb 23, 2011
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C-24 C
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(2022) Kismet
The R29S comes with 2 30 amp shore outlets. For those with the R29S or other RT/Cutwaters that have 2 30 amp shore outlets tell me how you connect to shore power, assuming the boat has air conditioning and you want to use it along with everything else? No Y adaptor and connect 2 30 amp cords to shore? Or an adaptor that accepts the 2 30 amp cords and converts to one 50 amp for the shore power? or something else?

Jim F
 
Jim:

Many docks I've been at that share a slip for two boats have a single shore power pedestal with just two sockets. In this case you really can ONLY use one of the 30 amp sockets to play fair. Thus if you want a 50 amp shore power socket you're going to have to request a slip that provides the single socket 50 amp shore power.

At my current moorage I share a large slip that provides a mid positioned single shore power pedestal with two 30 amp sockets, each with their own use meter.
 
We used to have a Carver with 2 x 30A on the boat and 1 x 30A at the slip. We used a Y on the boat to couple both inlets to the one cable. If we were going to use the AC we had to ensure that there was minimal loading in the other bank to avoid tripping the breaker on the dock.
 
trailertrawlerkismet":27db1y95 said:
The R29S comes with 2 30 amp shore outlets. For those with the R29S or other RT/Cutwaters that have 2 30 amp shore outlets tell me how you connect to shore power, assuming the boat has air conditioning and you want to use it along with everything else? No Y adaptor and connect 2 30 amp cords to shore? Or an adaptor that accepts the 2 30 amp cords and converts to one 50 amp for the shore power? or something else?

Jim F
Click to expand...
Post this question on the AGLCA forum. Jim Healy will be all over it with the straight skinny. And probably more.
 
Jim,

My 2014 R31S has two 30 amp inlets. It also has both a forward and aft air conditioner.

1. Normally, I use only a single 30 amp power cable to connect to a 30 amp shore power pedestal. But on the boat, I use a 30amp male to two 30amp female splitter to connect the single cable to the two 30amp inlets on the boat. I do this so that I don't have to string out two cables to the pedestal. At my home slip and at most marinas, this normally provides enough power to run both forward and aft air conditioners and the charger. On only two occasions at marinas, both air conditioners would start, but one would stop after awhile. The trigger seems to be low voltage at the marina pedestal. Also, I caution my wife to turn off one air conditioner if she wants to run the microwave or other high draw appliance.

2. For those marinas where either there is low voltage OR they don't have 30 amp available (only 50 amp) at my slip, I also carry a 50 amp male to two 30 amp female splitter that I can use at the pedestal to connect two cables to the boat's two 30 amp inlets.

3. On very, very rare occasions, I have to string out two 30 amp cables to the power pedestal. However, at many marinas, the pedestal does not have two 30 amp outlets available for my slip. So, I have to revert to #1 or #2.
 
Hi Jim
We have been hooked up this way for years, and as said it is simply power management. I do advise checking the cords from time to time as on occasion, we have had docks with bad breakers and over time have forgotten and maybe left water heater on with the A/C and forgot about it.. and then made coffee and no tripping of the breaker.. but have had a plug melt from overloading..But most I know use the splitter two 30 amp into 1 as usually A) less expensive for 30 , but more often then not only 30 amp available
 
Let me ask this: How about a splitter at the boat that has 2 30's attached to the boat that splits to one 30, as many of you suggested. Then attach a 30 amp cord to run to the dockside stanchion that in turn is connected to a pigtail of 30 amp to connect to the power cord and a 50 amp on the other side of the pigtail to connect to the stanchion? Would this provide enough power or work to be able to run everything on the boat? Or is it just taking the 50 amp from shore and dropping it down to 30 all the way back into the boat?

Thoughts?

Jim F
 
Hi Jim,

This is very dangerous. You have a 50A circuit feeding a 30A cable/connectors to two 30A loads. If you run both ACs, water heater, etc. you can severely overload the single 30A cable creating a fire risk. Use two 30A cables to the dockside 50A splitter in this scenario.

Howard

trailertrawlerkismet":35gzblk0 said:
Let me ask this: How about a splitter at the boat that has 2 30's attached to the boat that splits to one 30, as many of you suggested. Then attach a 30 amp cord to run to the dockside stanchion that in turn is connected to a pigtail of 30 amp to connect to the power cord and a 50 amp on the other side of the pigtail to connect to the stanchion? Would this provide enough power or work to be able to run everything on the boat? Or is it just taking the 50 amp from shore and dropping it down to 30 all the way back into the boat?

Thoughts?

Jim F
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Howard, this is exactly why I posted the question....knowing there are more knowledgable folks on Tugnuts then I about electrical connections.

Jim F
 
They make a 2- 30 Amp to a 50 AMP "Y"
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-Marine-Ad ... ne+adapter

Put the "Y" at the pedestal into the 50 AMP then run your two 30 AMP cords to the boat. The safest would be some way to put a breaker in line so you can not draw over 30 amps on each line to cause problems... But as long as you manage it and don't have the hairdryer, toaster, coffee machine and water heater all on at the same time you should be ok 🙂 Just pick any two ..
 
The 30A main breakers in your tugs 120VAC panel will limit each cable to 30A so no issue with a 50A dockside pedestal breaker.

Howard
 
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