Yamaha F300 transom bracket's plate anode

[baz]

Subject: Yamaha F300 transom bracket's plate anode

I've had my R-27/OB with the F300 for just under 4 weeks. It's been kept in salt water in a covered slip for much of this time. Today while the boat was on the hard at my local Yamaha service shop I took a look at the under water anodes; the trim tabs and the large plate anode at the base of the engines transom bracket.

The trim tab anodes were in very good shape and showed little corrosion. However, the large base plate on the bracket looked as if it had been eaten away quite badly. In pristine state it was smooth and shiny. It now looks as if it's been severely subjected to a power sand blower and its surface is quite torn up.

See photos of the anodes here -- https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0iGRMtznG1Pvt7

 

[ixlr8]

Barry,
It looks like the F300's transom bracket anode is electrically connected to the boats ground, are the trim tabs as well? If the tabs are not connected, that may be the difference. If you are connected to shore power when in your slip, maybe it is time to reconsider an isolator. It does look like a lot of corrosion for only 4 weeks, how long do you think the bracket anode is going to last at this rate of corrosion?

 

[baz]

Jim: The curvy base plate on the engine's transom bracket is bonded but the trim tabs aren't.

My Marina is 'hot' as I had my R-25 (Classic) in same Marina for 6 years and experienced severe anode corrosion. My diver service had to replace the under water anodes about every 3 months. I tried GI with the R-25 and it did squat/zilch/nothing to abate the corrosion rates. I will not waste my money on a GI again. I had the Marina check my shore power pedestal and they found little to reveal the issue.... sigh. 🙁

I might try the over-side hanging guppy approach, attaching it to one of my battery's -ive terminal to see if that helps.

I have no idea at this time how long the curvy base plate on the engine's transom bracket will last at the current rate of corrosion.

For the R-27/OB theres's only the curvy base plate anode on the engine's transom bracket and the two trim tabs to keep an eye on. The bow thruster is an all-composite material so no need for an anode for it. No prop or rudder anode to be concerned about either. 😀

 

[Larry H]

baz,

The Yamaha dealer should be able to advise you if your motor zinc is normal or not.

 

[baz]

Larry: I have sent my two photos of the corroded anode to my Yamaha service manager for his inspection and thoughts. He was even prepared to come down to my slip to check things for me.... awesome customer service here at Edmonds & Jacobsen's Marine (Doug Schaenherr). 😀

 

[baz]

My service manager banter on this issue....

=============
Time v.s miles traveled: I would say if she sat for three weeks only, that might be in "hot" spot but the miles traveled makes that look about normal, Best to keep an eye on it when sitting just for drill. I showed Willie he says it's doing its job. Hope it helps Cheers Doug Jacobsen's

From: Barry Sharp [mailto:barrysharp@mac.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 10:21 AM
To: Doug Schaenherr <doug@jacobsensmarine.com>
Subject: Re: F300 base plate anode status - from Barry Sharp

It was placed in the water at Edmonds Aug 16, 2017. It was taken out for some factory work for 5 days since then. So in all it’s been in salt water for approximately 3 weeks. Because my slip is a 28-foot slip I cannot raise my F300 as it would cause me to exceed my slip dimensions. So the engine is left in its down position when left at the slip. The boat has travelled some 358 miles in salt water so far.

Barry


On Sep 14, 2017, at 10:05 AM, doug@jacobsensmarine.com wrote:

HOW LONG HAS THIS BOAT BEEN IN THE SALTWATER?

From: Barry Sharp [mailto:barrysharp@mac.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 9:45 AM
To: Jacobsen's Marine <doug@jacobsensmarine.com>
Subject: F300 base plate anode status - from Barry Sharp

Doug: I attach two photos of the anode on my F300 that I captured at your shop yesterday while on the hard.

Regards Barry Sharp
===============

 

[baz]

The engine base/transom bracket's anode cost $26. Service manager has said, replace this anode when all the anode ribs have been eaten away. 🙂 I intend to keep an eye on this anode as I believe I'm in a 'hot' slip.

 

[stwendl]

You think you have a problem with zinks. I had my boat in the water for a week and then in dry storage where it was washed down before. After I got back some of the anodes had been eaten away in dry storage leaving little crumbles on the floor. And I got pictures to back this up

 

[bill46]

If using shore power a GI is a must. My zincs were gone in 2 months, added GI getting more like 2 years now.

 

[baz]

bill46:

When I had my R-25 (Classic) moored at same marina I'm in today I had significant underwater anode erosion issues. I spent money for a GI and installed it on my boat. IT made absolutely no difference so I'm not about to spend dollars again on a device that does not help.

Thank goodness the only underwater anodes I have on my new 2018 R-27/OB are on trim tabs and on the OB's bracket-transom's base.

I feel adding a GI to my boat is a waste of money, plus I'm unsure where I would install it as the wiring is buried vs. the easier acres I had on the R-25.

I'm going with an easily installed and less expensive overboard guppy connected to -ive battery terminal to see if that in any way helps.