Yanmar 4BY engine cover vibration isolator replacment

[jimv]

Hello fellow Yanmar 4BY owners -

I need to replace the vibration isolators that the engine vanity covers are held down with on my 2011 R27. The original units have severe cracks and/or have failed completely.
I know there have been other threads on the site where these isolators have been discussed, and alternative sources were listed (great info!)

My question to the group is: Have any of your actually replaced these isolators, and if yes, can you please provide any tips / tricks for getting them off the engine?
My initial assumption is that they simply screw off - I made an attempt, but couldn't get them to budge with 'normal' force. Before trying anything more forceful, I figured I would put this out to the group for thoughts.

I do have the engine covers off, that was not the problem. The issue is the end of the isolators that are attached to the engine bracket. It appears there is a lug welded into place - is that a threaded lug, or is the isolator itself welded to the bracket?

Thanks for any advice.

Jim

 

[Texas Tuggernaut]

I have the same engine. It was missing a bolt or two from the top covers and others were loose. I tightened them and put a few hose scraps in places to eliminate the vibration noises. I’ve never removed the covers.
Following here to hear from others..


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[knotflying]

On the starboard cover I tried to replace the isolator and no joy. I actually found a used bracket in a mechanics shop and replaced the whole bracket with a good isolator. I could not get the isolator off of the bracket I bought either. They show in the manual as a separate part so one assumes that they can screw out, The alternative may be to remove the bracket and drill out the old isolator. Get a replacement isolator and I would preferably thread the hole and use a nut on the back to lock it in or at the very least use the red locktite liquid. On the port side I believe the isolators will screw out. I can't remember specifically. Here is the part number for the isolator - 120650-17410

 

[GaylesFaerie]

While you are at it, make sure to check the four mounting grommets for the engine ECU. My 2012 4BY2 180 had two of them with the rubber split all the way through leaving only two to hold the unit in place and leaving it very shaky with the motor running. Easy to replace too. HTH, Gary

 

[jimv]

While you are at it, make sure to check the four mounting grommets for the engine ECU. My 2012 4BY2 180 had two of them with the rubber split all the way through leaving only two to hold the unit in place and leaving it very shaky with the motor running. Easy to replace too. HTH, Gary

Yep, my ECU mounts were toast as well. Those were at least straightforward to replace. Just the ones attached to the front engine bracket for the engine covers are trouble for me at this time.
I did not check to see that those brackets can be removed from the engine as KnotFlying implies. I will look into that route when I get back to the boat tomorrow. Likely it will be much easier to work on at my workbench than the contortions required to get to the front of the engine 🙂

 

[ALICE J]

On ALICE J which is a 2011 or 27 with a BY 4 180, I replaced the vibration isolators with stainless steel studs and they do screw into that welded nut that’s on the engine you may have to put some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. I felt that one of the reasons that the dampeners broke what is it I stepped on the fashion plate, I now only step where it’s directly bolted in the rear of the engine so far so good. I forget where I found the original vibration isolators but a quick view on Google revealed at Granger may have them as well as JEGS.com.

 

[jimv]

Issue Solved!

I can confirm that all four of the engine cover vibration isolators (2x port cover, 2X starboard cover) can be removed from the brackets by unscrewing them.
The trick was getting at the integrated bolt within the isolators. I ended up taking a razor knife and cutting the isolators in half, then using the razor and needle nose pliers, remove as much of the remaining rubber as needed to expose the 10mm Hex head bolt that holds the unit to the engine bracket mounts.
Once the bolt head was exposed, I used a standard 10mm socket / wrench to remove. I did this from the step access hatch inside the cabin, as I had already removed the panel at the bulkhead. Made things easier. The Port-most isolator can't be seen from the step access (too high) so I did that mostly from the engine compartment.

~Jim

 

[knotflying]

Good to hear that the starboard one can be removed. I tried even after removing the bracket and it wouldn't budge. Since I got the replacement bracket at no cost I went with that option.

 

[2islanders]

Having the same problem- has anyone come up with a source for these other than Yanmar? The yanmar dealer quoted me $150 CDN each which seems pretty pricy for these.


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[knotflying]

You need to get the size. Granger should have them. https://www.grainger.com/search/har...ar=true&suggestConfigId=6&tier=Not+Applicable

 

[jimv]

I did not find stainless steel at Grainger.

For the ECU mounts, I purchased https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/produ...el-Components?artikelnr=456-20-20-16-M6-SS-55
Those are 3/4" (20mm) diameter to fit correctly for the two mounts at the bottom of the ECU. $6.09 each (USD)

I'm pretty sure that the posts length on those is too long for the lugs on the engine cover mounts, so I've ordered these from McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/5823K62 - $7.35 each (USD). These are 1" diameter, and will be ok for 3 of the mounts. I am a little worried that may be too wide for one of the starboard mounts, but I did get one extra of the JW Winco and can cut and rethread the stud if needed.

Parts are expected to be delivered mid week - I'll update the post once I have them installed (assuming all goes well 😀 )

Jim

 

[jimv]

Quick update on alternative supplies:

I received the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr. STAY AWAY!!! These were absolute crap. I was slightly shocked when I opened the package - I don't believe it is unreasonable to expect that the shafts would be in alignment and protruding from the center of the isolators. Not these pieces of junk. Studs were off center on all, some worse than others. The studs were also set at random angles. One part reminded me of an old TV rabbit ear set.
I've had good luck with MMC, used them a fair number of times in my professional career. Was not expecting something of this poor quality.

Anyway, I did end up using 3, although the stud length was still too long and I had to cut them back a bit to fit into the welded nut on the engine bracket. As suspected, these 1" diameter parts were too wide for the one starboard mount. I used a still good looking isolator I got from the ECM mount in that spot.

After all that, the port engine cover still rattles at idle speed (sigh) 🙁 - I might put some extra rubber strips along the 'joint' between the two covers. That is where my rattle is coming from.

The JW Winco parts have a 4 week lead time, so they are not expected until mid Nov. I will report back once those arrive.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

I might put some extra rubber strips along the 'joint' between the two covers.

I did that the beginning of this summer with some 1/4" rubber and it works well. However, when I took the port side cover off, I noticed on the under side exactly where the rubbing was occurring by a shiny area. At the "joint" the horizontal cover bends 90 degrees like the side to a shoe box top. I saw the shiny area on the underside of the that side near the front of the engine. My plan this winter is to simply take an angle grinder to that area and see if that helps. I'm a bit wary of having a piece of rubber jammed in the cover where it can come loose and cause who knows what kind of trouble. HTH, Gary