Yanmar 4BY2-180 Fuel Filters

Trisailor

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2017
Messages
147
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2720H011
Vessel Name
Fancy Nancy (2011 R27)
The other day I tried to change my Yanmar fuel filters for my first time and they will not unscrew. After applying the maximum pressure via strap wrench and helper bar, neither filter would budge. I stopped at that point to prevent a mess in the bilge from a crushed filter. I'm waiting a couple of days to see if PB blaster sprayed in the small gap btwn the filter and mount will help.
Has anyone here encountered a similar issue? The local Yanmar dealer/support stated it was probably factory installed and had no new idea as to getting them off.
I may have to pull the filters with mounts off the engine (dealer agreed) to take home and clamp in a vise to destroy existing filters and get them changed. I really don't want to bang on them with a hammer and chisel while hanging on the engine or engine compartment wall.
Has anyone here experienced a similar issue? My concern is difficulty in bleeding the air if the fuel lines are disconnected from the mounts and left open (unsealed) for a day or so. Even sealing them with tape leaves them open with no pressure so residual fuel can drip/drain. At least that's my experience with airplane systems.
 
Very surprised you have a Yanmar that has not had the fuel filters changed. The original filters are a bugger to remove. When you do get them off lube the filter gaskets with oil, fill the filters with fuel, do not over tighten, then bleed the system. Page 24 of the engine manual describes how to bleed the system.
 
Hi Brian,
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try on the boat one more time, then pull the filter mounts and take them home to the garage work bench to remove the filters. It's time for the "get a bigger hammer" approach. That'll also prevent turning the bilge into an EPA disaster.
Yes, I'm majorly remiss in getting to this. The engine only had 63 hours on a 4 year engine installation when I bought the boat, and I've been slow to get to some of those things. I've only been able to put an additional 120 some hours on since I've been the new owner. We tend to not have a condensation problem here due to our low humidity and I've been watching the fuel and trying to cycle newer diesel through prior to changing the filters just to make sure there's no residual sludge/water problem. I must say though that I couldn't be happier in our choice of the Ranger Tug. It is well designed, well laid out, and of the most importance to the Admiral - cute. A bonus is all the info and lessons learned gleaned from the Tugnuts site.
 
Before I did that I might try using a well made filter wrench and a pipe extension on the handle. Put the metal strap of the wrench way up at the top as close as you can to avoid crushing the filter as much as possible.
 
Thanks All for the input. After much reflection and considering all the options including the method on u tube from Boris, I think I'm going to remove the filter and mount and go with removal of the mount and filter from the boat for the workbench vise/hammer routine. I actually learned that methodology working in a neighborhood garage during my happy go lucky youth. At that time we didn't use the drill, instead, just drove the screw driver (or big punch) straight through the filter with a hammer.
Knotflying, I actually tried your suggestion twice with no success. Also the smaller (water sep) filter's location limits the throw one has as well as being screwed to the fiberglass wall of the compartment. I can see gorrilla-ing it right off the bulkhead.
With care, it will be possible to not contaminate the fuel lines nor spill diesel into the bilge. I'm going to try the water separator filter today and will report back on the adventure.
Again, I appreciate all the suggestions, it is extremely helpful when considering all the options.
 
Yahoo! The water separator filter change is done. After removing the bracket and filter from the boat, it took some persuasion from a hammer and chisel before a plumbing style chain strap wrench would twist the filter off. The fuel drained from the old filter was clean with a tiny bit of dirt and no evidence of any water. After re installation, the bleeding of any air went well and the engine started right up and ran smoothly. The few drips of diesel from the hose removal was easily cleaned up and the bilge looks clean. On to the next one.
 
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