Yanmar 4BY2-180 Starting problem

[pease]

Engine cranks but does not start.
Most things go wrong as a result of something the operator did, so below is a detailed description:
When I left her 2 weeks ago I switched off at the PDP panel all 3 batteries, turned off all appliances and disconnected shore power.
When I went on board this morning the batteries were all fully charged but as I wanted to warm up I connected the shore power and switched on the house batteries and turned on the heater (she has a heat pump). All fine.
Later I decided to run the main motor and found I had (2 weeks earlier) left the key in the ignition (vertically i.e. 'off') and the safety button held in. Nonetheless I turned the key to start the motor and everything was fine (light and buzzer came on for several seconds) but when I turned the key further, there was a click but nothing else. Then I remembered that I hadn't switched on the engine batteries. So I did that and everything seemed fine with the starter cranking the engine BUT she would not start; may have got one firing. Waited about 20 minutes and repeated the starting operation with exactly the same result.

I also looked at the Yanmar manual which gave five possibilities:
1)too cold (unlikely the temperature was no lower than it often is here)
2) blocked fuel line; also unlikely as there as been no history of this (she ran beautifully 2 weeks ago).
3) water in the fuel, so check or replace fuel filters
4)) Air in the fuel line so need to bleed air
5) blown fuse #3. Where is this? I could find no mention of it in Andrew's fine handbook for the R27
Any words of wisdom? I have never bled air or changed the filters by myself and am not about to try without some instruction.

 

[Osprey]

According to my Yanmar Service Manual F3 is a 15A fuse for the fuel supply pump. The F3 fuse is located within the Engine Control Unit (ECU). With your repeated no start cranking be sure you do not flood raw water into the engine via the exhaust system.

 

[nzfisher]

Have you listened for the sound of the fuel pump running when you turn the ignition to the on position? It is not loud but it is audible. I believe the your fuel system self purges air in the line if it is working properly. Make sure that you did not turn off the fuel supply valve and forgot to turn in back on. Best of luck.

 

[Irish Mist]

Check and make sure your lanyard is in place on the kill button

I remember reading something somewhere about possible hydraulic lock on repeated cranking with no start... I found this in an older post ... .just be careful


Re: Water Lock
Post by
Andrew Custis on Wed Dec 22, 2010 12:31 am

Yanmar has to state that to cover themselves. There is certainly truth behind that. If you crank on the engine too long not allowing the belt to turn and evacuate the water, water can enter the cylinders. Has this happened on a Ranger Tug? Never. There are some strong words in this post. Yanmars do "not" have issues turning over. From the first mechanical Yanmar engine to the new electronic ones, we have never had a starting issue. If you indeed have trouble with the Yanmar starting, it wont be due to the electronics or ECM.

When I deliver a boat or someone that might ask me about this, I simply tell them one thing. Do not continue to crank the engine without it starting until you figure out what the issue is. I cannot tell you how many times you can crank an engine without it starting before you will ingest water to the engine. But I do know if it takes a Yanmar more then 10 seconds to start, you actually have an issue.

I do believe the procedure you state is a good one to follow in this scenario.

Cummins had an automatic time delay in the key system that only allowed the engine to crank for approx. five seconds at a time.
Andrew Custis
Ranger Factory Rep

Posts: 761
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 3:47 pm
City: Kent
State/Province: WA

 

[pease]

Many thanks.
As it turned out time alone fixed the problem because this morning she started right up without hesitation. I suspect the problem was related to my first trying to start the motor without having the right battery switched on.

 

[pugtug613]

FYI
Yanmar 180's self bleed. You turn the key on for 10 seconds, then off, repeat 5 times. Never had to do it, but that's what the repair manual states.

 

[knotflying]

Many thanks.
As it turned out time alone fixed the problem because this morning she started right up without hesitation. I suspect the problem was related to my first trying to start the motor without having the right battery switched on.

Yep, if you don't turn on the battery switch you get a click, but no engine cranking. Also, if you accidentally leave the key in the on position you will kill the battery. That is why I always take the key out of the ignition when I turn the engine off.

 

[captstu]

If the starting problem was after a long layup - a week or more - and corrected itself in time, you might suspect an air leak into the fuel system before the lift pump - maybe the Racor seal is bad and leaking air. Cranking operated the lift pump, put pressure on the fuel and re-primed the high pressure pump, causing the normal easy starting after a short interval.

Just a guess, but I've seen it before. If it happens again, look for an air leak.