Yanmar hose upgrades posted by Andrew

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baz

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See viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1817

However, I've found that the Yanmar web site is not friendly to Safari nor Firefox browsers. I had to scrounge up a PC laptop and fire up a $MS explorer browser to get anywhere on the Yanmar web site. This is so yesterday as the young crowd would say... 😉

Going to the Yanmar site and entering my R25 yanmar engine data the current registration info was found AOK. 🙂 I then notice my mailing address was out of date so I updated that as well as my Email address.

I noted my Yanmar engine warranty expires July 11, 2011 -- so I hope that does not stop Yanmar for contacting me about the faulty hose and their replacement process/policy.
 
I have had no luck using the Yanmar website. I have to assume their engines are so reliable that it will not be an issue. A little more detail about the hose issue would help many of us.
 
There are two Yanmar pre-formed coolant hoses on the port side of the 4BY2-180 engine that are about 15" long. They connect to the longer heater hoses that take the coolant out to and return from the HW heater and cabin heater. One of the hoses in my R-27 developed a significant leak at 10 hours. We located the leak and cut off about 4 " of affected hose, reconnecting the remainder to the heater hose. At 13 hours, the same hose developed a pinhole leak at the U bend. Ranger Tug sent me a replacement Yanmar hose which I had installed. Apparently a number of other Ranger Tugs have had the same kind of problems,sufficent enough for Yanmar to step up to the plate. During the course of the two leaks, I added over 3 gallons of antifreeze. I'm going to wait to flush the system and replace with new antifreeze until after Yanmar provides/installs replacement hoses. I noticed that the problem hose made contact at two points with engine parts creating the potential for abrasion problems. My mechanic put a protective sleeve over the hose as a precaution. I'm pleased that Andrew sent me a hose as my Ranger Tug dealer didn't register my engine with Yanmar and there are no Yanmar mechanics near my boat, so solving the problem thru Yanmar would have taken too long.
 
I called Linda Noonan at Ranger Tugs and she advised me to contact my Yanmar engine servicing person (MER Marine Engines & Repair in Seattle). I did so, and they are aware of the situation and did in fact have a customer's two faulty hoses on the table as I spoke with them which needed to be returned to Yanmar. I gave them my contact info and they will be scheduling an appointment to take a look at my hoses and make repairs as needed. They said they inspect the hose(s) for any signs of the problem and if found they replace them. Otherwise they have some kind of kit to ensure the suspect hoses are protected.

I'll post back when MER has done the hose inspection. 🙂
 
I have a new Ranger Tug 25SC on your lot awaiting shipment. Does it have the new hoses on it, if not can they be installed or at least sent to me. Thanks, Mike
 
mmcdonald47":31bz7vi6 said:
I have a new Ranger Tug 25SC on your lot awaiting shipment. Does it have the new hoses on it, if not can they be installed or at least sent to me. Thanks, Mike

My advice would be for you to call Andrew Custis directly at Ranger Tugs Kent WA facility (253) 839-5213. He should provide you with the latest on this issue for your R25SC boat.
 
The Yanmar Advisory Number: YASA2011-013-M states "...within the warranty period please replace them with the new hoses.".

Note that there are 3 hoses mentioned in the Advisory note yet only 2 are called out for being replaced! Yanmar allows (pays for) 2 hrs labor to drain cooling system,replace the 2 hoses and refill the cooling system with new coolant.

Hose wall thickness is increased from 3.5 mm to 4.5 mm. 🙂

My question is

The Yanmar engine Warranty comes in two parts

1) a 2 year warranty (the Yanmar engine registration will identify the 2 year expiration date for you)
2) and a 5 year warranty

Is this recall replacement covered under which warranty -- the 2 year or the 5 year ?

I have a call into Yanmar Customer service at 855-416-7091 to better understand the above.

In my case my 2 yr warranty expires July 11th 2011 so I will certainly get this done post haste. 🙂
 
The Yanmar site is not even able to register an engine with Internet Explorer on a Mac, no less Safari or Firefox. I've complained in detail (as only a truly obsessive-compulsive Ranger owner can!) and I have been pushed up the chain of command a bit to Najoua Belaid of Yanmar. Here's some of my diatribe:

Some thoughts. As an "innovational" leader (which is one reason I bought a boat with the new 4BY engine system and avoided the Cummins) why does Yanmar use a warranty system requiring a rather archaic web browser used on less than 50% of all computers according to Wikipedia March 2011 statistics? You miss the almost 30% of personal computer users who are innovative enough to depend on Firefox and the near 15% who now use Chrome.

Well, Najoua is bringing this to the attention of their IT guys, and some support from other Mac users would be helpful. You can reach her at najoua.belaid@yanmar.nl

BTW, I've gotten emails from folks at Ranger and at Yanmar offering to register my engine by hand if I provide the necessary data which I am planning to do. That's nice! When your antifreeze is changed make sure you insist on Yanmar YG30R although Chevron Devo seems OK. I am still wary of DeathCool (DexCool) which many Yanmar shops use exclusively, like my local mechanics. There's some scary stuff about it on the Hull Truth forum.
 
Just spoke with Brian at MER Equipment in Seattle - RE: the warranty period for the hose advisory, he feels that it's not a warranty issue more of an upgrade from Yanmar. Our 2yr warranty is up today & we wanted to make sure we were covered & according to him, Yanmar would cover it. So now its just a matter of scheduling the work to be done.
 
I took a look at my hoses to see if they were the type depicted in Andrew's picture, unfortunately they are. What I did notice while looking is that the hose further stern does rest on another hose and is very close to a plastic clip and a protruding bolt. In my opinion putting some foam insulation around the hose in that area may be helpful, even when the new hose is installed. No matter how thick the hose is eventually if it is up against something and there is vibration, it will eventually wear through.
 
knotflying":vsslmzrg said:
I took a look at my hoses to see if they were the type depicted in Andrew's picture, unfortunately they are. What I did notice while looking is that the hose further stern does rest on another hose and is very close to a plastic clip and a protruding bolt. In my opinion putting some foam insulation around the hose in that area may be helpful, even when the new hose is installed. No matter how thick the hose is eventually if it is up against something and there is vibration, it will eventually wear through.

Yes -- I've noticed same issue and will be protecting the rub points with additional material.

I have my local MER Yanmar engine servicer scheduling me for hose replacements as soon as Yanmar can restock the hoses. Apparently there's been a run on them and they have to restock. I wonder why. 😀
 
I put a protective sleeve over the two points that you mentioned. A potential future problem avoided.
 
Update...

I had my R25's 150 HP Yanmar two engine coolant hoses replaced yesterday by Gallery Marine services instead of MER. Mer could not schedule this warranty work until Aug 1st. Since we will be attending the Desolation Sound Cruise July 29-Aug 6 I was able to secure services from Gallery Marine with help from Jeff Messmer. I'm not sure how Jeff pulled it off but suspect he contacted the Cascade distributor and pulled a few strings. 😉 Thanks Jeff. 🙂

The Gallery Marine service technician Greg turned up at my R25 at around 10:20 AM and had just performed the same Yanmar hose recall warranty work on another Ranger Tug (an R27) moored in my Edmonds marina -- and at first told me mine would would be an easy task... however, not so as I mention below. This was mainly due to the fact that the engine in the R25 spans the cockpit and the rear cabin. The R27's engine is far more assessable and is completely contained and assess through the cockpit engine hatch area.

The work took almost 2-1/2 hrs and the technician Greg did a fantastic job and explained things about the engine as he went about doing his work. He had no choice but to loosen and pull aside the engine ECU box and to do so had to disconnect the large multi-pin connectors. Also needed to remove the Yanmar marked 'beauty' panels to get at things easily. I was getting quite alarmed as one by one of the engine components were being loosen and push aside... I simply had to have faith in this Gallery Marine service technician. The rear hose was kind of difficult to get at and its access was made through the cabin step hatch and the round floor port hole opening immediately forward of the step hatch. This rear hose was routed by Ranger differently from a normal Yanmar engine installation and so the Yanmar replacement hose had to be cut/shortened to accommodate Ranger's hose routing of the hose to the onboard cabin heater. The rear hose ended up being just an elbow with some 8" long arms.

Looking at the original hoses and the new ones from Yanmar it was obvious the new hoses were very much sturdier and had thicker walls.

Greg was very careful about not losing coolant and had a technique whereby he used a special tool to clamp the hose just upstream from where the hose was joined with connector barbs. He used a tool he called a Dentist pick (and it looked just like one) to pry the hoses of the connector barbs. In all, I would say no more than a cup of coolant was lost in the whole process. Greg left me with a gallon of new coolant and told me to check coolant level on next cruise as there could be some air pockets in the line.

Greg found a few areas where the hose was rubbing on metal 'knife edges', as he called them. He used the old hose and made pieces that surrounded the new hose at the 'rub spots' and secured them with two plastic zip ties. Nice job indeed -- and gives 'peace of mind'.

After all was put back together the engine was run for some 20 minutes just to make sure there were no leaks and that the engine ran without issues. All check out AOK. 🙂

Greg did excellent work and took great care not dripping oil or any other crud onto the boat in cockpit and cabin areas. He was well prepared with oil absorbent paper which he meticulously laid about where he stood and worked at all times.

An interesting issue did arise during the warranty work.
As greg moved about in the engine bay he found each time he jogged or slightly moved the wire conduit that ran to the bilge pump/float under the prop shaft that the bilge pump would run. The first few times it freaked him out as the bilge makes a distinctive noise and could be alarming for a technician taking care not to disturb things in the tight spaces in the engine bay. It was determined that the bilge pump breaker on the 12v panel was set ON. However, this did not make sense as by wiggling the wire conduit running to the bilge pump #1 would make the pump run sporadically. We suspected a loose connection. But this could not be figured out as the root cause. We turned off the 12v breaker and no amount of wiggling the wire conduit caused the pump to activate. It was a mystery that Greg left for me to resolve.

I contacted Andrew and we went through what had transpired. Andrew immediately told me that the 12v breaker should never be on as it was simply a manual backup in the event the float switch failed to activate the pump. The 12v breaker ON position simply bypassed the float and caused power to flow directly from the battery to the pump. I was unaware of this. Andrew thought that with me leaving the 12v breaker ON that the pump possibly was burned out or was going into failure mode and needing replacement.

One other test was performed. This was for me to dump water into the bilge #1 area to fill up to be above the float module. I did this with the 12v breaker OFF. If the float and pump were working as designed the float should be activating the pump. I knew the pump would run per the 'wiggle test'. However, with water about 1/2" above the float the pump was not being activated -- even with me wiggling the wire conduit. This test kind of indicated the float was faulty. The wiggle test with 12v breaker ON also indicated a loose wire connector or a failing pump.

The upshot will be for me to replace the bilge pump cartrige and the float. Andrew said Ranger stocks these and could be sent out in a few days. The replacement work should not take more than an hour but that the 2 feet of wires attached to the new pump cartridge must be heat shrunk at the point where they attach to the main wire bundle on starboard side of the engine bay. Hmmm, that requires a special tool presumably. As we plan to cruise up too Roche harbor July 28th there really was little time to resolve this. Andrew, knowing I would be in Roche harbor for 3 days indicated that since he would be there also he would take care of this issue for me. He will bring the new parts and install them in Roche harbor for me. Well, I will certainly help him as best I can and pay for the parts without question, unless of course Ranger says they are under warranty. 😀 GREAT service from Ranger Tugs (and especially Andrew for discussing and advising me) on this issue.
 
What are the part numbers for these hoses?
 
Tom,
Not sure if you are referring to the coolant hoses into and out of the water heater or the oil hose issue that impacted the 4BY2 engines. If it is the oil hose problem, then please see this thread. There is a pdf file from Andrew C. than you can download with the part numbers and more info on the hose. Prior owner on our boat used the wrong part and it partially failed a few years later. Get the right part!

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2682

Edited for clarification.
 
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