2016 C30 propeller installation question

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dennis41

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Joined
Apr 21, 2019
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43
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3047C616
Just hauled my boat for bottom paint. Discovered there was no nut/cotter pin on the prop shaft. It's a miracle I still have a prop. Also, something odd, there is about 3 inches of thread between the prop and the end of the shaft. way too much room for just one nut. This is a new prop, installed by Ronnie G. after the first one fell off (long story) and I remember a castellated nut being used with, of course, a cotter pin. This is on the 2016 435hp model if it matters. So....wondering if anyone has an idea of what's going on. If a factory person is reading this, should there be a lock nut in addition to the castellated nut? I would like to figure this out before the boat goes back in the water.
 
Assuming it’s the same setup as mine, also a 2016 c30cb, there is a prop anode and an Allan keyed bolt w/ washer. Here’s a photo from when my boat was originally surveyed. I’ve since put a new prop anode on.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!An3QgiOrn39prR1E4mMo-9dZg3wG
 
Hi Dennis,

dbsea is right. You should have the anode on this as well. Unfortunately, I can't see the pic he posted but it looks a bit like a football with a flat side on one end and is attached with the allen head bolt and washer. Easy problem to solve though. As for what happened, that is anyone's guess at this point. But depending on how long the boat had been in the water since it was last inspected, it's plausible that the cotter pin had corroded away, allowing the nut to work its way loose over time. Hope this hekps.

Cheers,

Ralf
 
A picture says a 1000 words. The original prop nut is as dbsea photo shows. From your description a single standard prop nut was installed without a locking nut which is a thin nut. This design will not allow for an anode to be installed to protect the shaft and prop. This configuration will work Thin locking nut installed first then thicker nut installed with a cotter pin as a safety if you have a grounding brush on the prop shaft going to a hull anode. It appears, Ronny did not have the right nut to install with the anode attachment so he installed a single nut (WRONG!!!!) Thinking it is the same as the Castle nut/ anode design. It is not!! The reason for the Castel nut design is so the prop shaft can have anode protection. There is not enough room between the shaft log keel extension and the prop for a collar anode. if on is installed in this location it could obstruct water flow coming out of the shaft log and reduce cutlass bearing lubrication. The easy fix is to install the right prop nut !!
 
Trying to understand what's holding the zinc on the shaft vs what's keeping the prop from sliding off. What am I missing? My zinc has come up missing more than once but my diver has figured out how to not loose the zinc and the basket that the zinc is molded around will be there. Hope I'm not missing something but there should be a designated nut with sole purpose to protect prop from being lost. Interested if I have misinterpreted the issue. H

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