Spontanéité":r2mnd2i6 said:
Gin":r2mnd2i6 said:
I did not tackle the task of routing my Cortex GPS cable the way Rory admirably did. I discovered that the antenna works very well for me from inside the cabin structure. I tucked it into the cubby storage area on the R31 above the passenger helm. I was able to route the cable behind the upper helm structure and down the post to the left of the helm door, and from there into the area behind the helm. Other models might have other interior locations where the GPS will work. I tested the signal, for example, from under the gunnel in the back cockpit, and it worked well there too.
But the way Rory placed the GPS antenna and routed the cable is definitely optimal. Rory, I’ve PM’d you asking more about what was involved in dismantling the interior so that you could route the cable that way. I may want to do that someday, more for another item or two I might add to the mast than for the GPS. But if I were at it anyway, I’d probably reroute the GPS cable as well.
Gini
I’d be curious what you learned here. I saw the video Martin did that involved drilling, caulking, and all that stuff which is beyond my comfort level. I did order the cortex unit today since we just got our documentation and station license.
Martin's installation was for an antenna with 7 cables - so he needed to install a much larger "gland" to route them through the exterior roof. I was able to squeeze the single coax it into the existing gland.
I had read many threads that indicated the internal GPS antenna "worked fine", but the way my AP acted up I decided it must not be optimal. Some days it would be okay, other days it would not hold a course at all. "SPEED SOURCE FAULT". So I decided to spend some time and do the best I could.
I put the GPS antenna on the bracket (#8) where the XM/Weather antenna would go if I had one. Down the mast, out at the bottom, and into the interior of the boat through the same gland as the rest of the antenna mast cabling.
Inside, first remove the curtain rails and the teak boxes they are screwed into on both sides forward of the 2 teak pillars (the upright boxes between the windows with the shelves and lights). Then remove the 4 screws holding the vertical teak behind the "cubby" that runs across the boat . Tilt the top ahead and you can wiggle it out of there. Then you have access to the 3-4” between the fiberglass exterior and inner roof panel. Locate and fish out the end of the new cable and push it down the starboard pillar with a fish tape. Another route would be along the roofline to the front, then down the window pillar. I couldn't figure out how to take the window pillar off so I elected to go behind the refrigerator, which I had out a couple of times previously to work on the Webasto and wanted to upgrade anyway.
Remove the door and hardware from the refrigerator, remove the 4 screws on the front securing it, slide it straight ahead and out, then ahead and out of the way. No need to disconnect any wiring, lots of length for this. Crawl in, locate the end of your cable and route it ahead to behind the helm if that's your destination. The refrigerator is installed in a precarious manner. The whole thing is hanging on the front fiberglass lip. The back and the compressor are just hanging in space. And the heavy part is the compressor. So the top of the refrigerator is fine, but the bottom is always going to be trying to “kick out” due to the turning moment of the refrigerator. And just 2 wood screws in fiberglass preventing this. Just a matter of time before they strip out IMO. While I had it out I I built a couple of rails with 2 X 2's and blocked them up so that the fridge sits flush in the front when slid it, makes it much easier to get the refrigerator in and out. With the Webasto in there I can see myself needing to get at that many more times over the years.
So nothing technically challenging, just time consuming. Note that this was in a RT31CB.
Rory