Bow Roller

[JeffRad54]

I've replaced the 16.5 Lewmar from the factory with a 35 lb. Mantus M2 for the Loop.
Unfortunately, the Mantus is a hair too long in the 'tooth' and bumps my bow plate.
Lewmar says I need a new bow roller. I think I should be able to drill through the outer bracket to the after roller bracket screw holes to make the unit one, vice pivoting as it is now.

Question is, how to find the center of the outside bracket to match the inside bracket screw holes to drill through the outside bracket to install a through bolt to hold the pivoting arm in place. There isn't enough room to drill inside to out.

Thanks,
Jeff Radwill

 

[knotflying]

I have a 27 and installed the Manson Supreme. I was able to extend the pivot bracket with roller to the second hole and all worked well. So assuming your issue is different and you need to go further out, rather than drill the stationery bracket can't you drill the outer bracket with a hole slightly back further? It will be easier to drill while removed from the boat and in a vice rather than removing the stationary bracket. Once the bracket is off it will be easy to mark the center line required for the hole. Also, keep in mind you are drilling Stainless so you need to use a cobalt bit.

 

[ALICE J]

I have an R27 2011, with a Manson Supreme 35#. I simply moved the piece with the roller to the next inboard hole that was already drilled. That's the simple part. I do a lot of anchoring with 100 foot of chain plus line and found that the plastic rollers wore and the inboard roller broke. So I had a bronze roller machined to replace both rollers, I also had the forward roller machined with a deeper grove to allow the chain to fully settle in and take out the chain twist. As the boat sails from side to side, the chain rolls on the bottom. This twist is taken out with a Mantus swivel located on the anchor. I found that if the chain is allowed to twist, this wears the gypsy on the windlass and causes the chain to slip in the gypsy. I also placed a piece of 1/4" stainless steel plate about 4x5 next to the point of the anchor to fend off any anchor points. 😱 So if the relocation of the inner platform does not suffice, perhaps a larger Bronze roller may be the answer. I had to do some experimentation and trial and error before arriving at a workable solution. Measure twice, cut once. :cry:

 

[SgtAlf]

There's a nice post on here about replacing the stock bow roller with the Mantus. It was so good I did in to my R-23.

 

[Hamster]

Add the Mantus Anchormate to keep the point off the boat.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-mate/

 

[Mr. Ed]

Add the Mantus Anchormate to keep the point off the boat.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-mate/

+1 Easy to install and very strong solution.

 

[mourinor9177]

These comments are for the Cutwater boats. The bow roller are in the hull and not on the deck like the Ranger tugs.
In my C26 the Mantus M2 worked very well. The curved shank allowed the anchor to get retrieved very easily and go right inside the in hull roller without touching any part of the hull. I did get the mantus anchor mate to keep the point of the anchor 1 inch away from the hull. The only down side is that the anchor mate does lock the anchor in place with compression forces. So I use a 1/2 12 inch pvc pipe to push it free it it gets stuck when I want to drop it. the Rocna curved shank will most likely also work well with the cutwater in hull roller but I purchased the mantus. In Long Island NY with a lot of mud and grass it hold very well. The original Bruce did not hold well in these waters.

 

[JeffRad54]

Add the Mantus Anchormate to keep the point off the boat.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-mate/

I got it, installed it, it didn't work.

What did work was reading the Lewmar manual and tightening the winch clutch 1/4 turn.
Now to see if Mantus will let me return the Anchor Guard.

Thanks for the advice, it was my mistake for not reading the manual!

Jeff