C 28 Dry Weight

[bails023]

All print literature I have seen and, until recently, the Cutwater website (http://www.cutwaterboats.com) listed the C 28 dry weight as 6,400 lbs. I noticed that the website now says the C 28 dry weight is 8,000! That is a substantial difference. Any explanation and which is the correct number?

 

[circusmar]

8000lb is closer. ive estimated ours in the 8500-9000 range, over 10k "wet".

 

[bails023]

I think you are correct. Unfortunately I made some expensive lift decisions based on the information previously provided by Cutwater. I am new to boating and my research indicated that, for inboard boats with "fixed" engines, the "dry weight" usually included the engine (not necessarily true for I/O's, outboards or inboards with a wide range of engine options). Well, Cutwater advertised 6,400 pounds dry for the C 28 for a long time and interestingly enough, the Volvo D4 weights 1,420 pounds. Add a 180 pound transmission to that and you get to 8,000 pounds. I think Cutwater changed their "dry-weight" statement mid-stream. I will be interested in hearing the factory's explanation.

 

[PhilR]

My R-27 is listed by RT at 6,200 lbs. dry weight, but weighs closer to 10,000 lbs. With a tank of fuel and some gear on board. I don't get why RT continues to do this. Me thinks that there are some overloaded trailers riding the roads.

Phil

 

[Automaticman865]

I've questioned the weight factor for a long time. It proves out my theory that the original prop was too large for the boat and am now running with a smaller prop. I was not able to reach the WOT rpms for the volvo. Plus I also have the generator and AC.
Stuart

 

[Tardis]

Weighed my C28 on trailer and was surprised to find the total weight was roughly 11,500 lb. Granted I had 1/2-full water and fuel tanks and a gear on board. But subtracting the trailer that still gives roughly a 9,700 lb outfitted boat weight. (I have not weighed the trailer separately so the number is not too precise.)

My weight is higher than the listed dry weight, but that does not include the added options (generator, AC, solar, etc.) so 9,700 lb may not be too unreasonable starting with the 8,000 lb baseline.

Truck is an F350 so it is OK, but boat trailer is rated at 8,725 and hitch is 10,000. If the usual 20% weight is supported by the hitch, I think I am barely within the trailer specs. Will have to do a more complete set of weighings in the spring. (Glad I opted for electric/hydraulic brakes on the trailer.)

Original prop also did not initially get close to WOT, but was OK after dealer adjusted it. I would be interested in hearing about other prop options.

 

[circusmar]

Weighed my C28 on trailer and was surprised to find the total weight was roughly 11,500 lb. Granted I had 1/2-full water and fuel tanks and a gear on board. But subtracting the trailer that still gives roughly a 9,700 lb outfitted boat weight. (I have not weighed the trailer separately so the number is not too precise.)

You'll find you're over 10K fully topped off... same as us. Wet weight is more important than dry weight anyway as few people successfully cruise in a boat that is completely "dry" with no fuel, fluids, water, batteries, etc. 😀

We also need to de-pitch our prop but are unable to in the water as the shaft will need decoupled to get a puller between the hub and cutlass bearing. part of me is reluctant to make our boat even slower with a lower final drive ratio but our engine will be happier long term.

 

[knotflying]

Weighed my C28 on trailer and was surprised to find the total weight was roughly 11,500 lb. Granted I had 1/2-full water and fuel tanks and a gear on board. But subtracting the trailer that still gives roughly a 9,700 lb outfitted boat weight. (I have not weighed the trailer separately so the number is not too precise.)

You'll find you're over 10K fully topped off... same as us. Wet weight is more important than dry weight anyway as few people successfully cruise in a boat that is completely "dry" with no fuel, fluids, water, batteries, etc. 😀

We also need to de-pitch our prop but are unable to in the water as the shaft will need decoupled to get a puller between the hub and cutlass bearing. part of me is reluctant to make our boat even slower with a lower final drive ratio but our engine will be happier long term.

Try this prop puller. I have an R-27 so I am not sure if the clearance is the same (maybe 1 inch at best), but this worked for me. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...er=307621&langId=-1&searchKeyword=prop+puller

 

[SGIDAVE]

We also need to de-pitch our prop but are unable to in the water as the shaft will need decoupled to get a puller between the hub and cutlass bearing. part of me is reluctant to make our boat even slower with a lower final drive ratio but our engine will be happier long term.

Sorry to further de-rail this thread...

How much space is there on the Cutwaters between prop hub and bearing? That is the KEY Dimension to determine which prop puller you can use. Avoiding disconnecting the shaft from the transmission would be nice.

The Pro-Pull model Knotflying linked is a very nice unit. I believe they call it their "heavy duty" model. It looks like this

It is model PPF 103 and works on shaft diameters 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. The online info says it requires 3/4" inch minimum clearance between the prop hub and the bearing or strut.

Model PPF 102 is a c-clamp style for shafts sizes 3/4 to 1 1/8 inches. It req minimum clearance of 1/4 inch.

I don't know what size shaft the Cutwaters have, but if they are 1 1/8" or less, then the PPF 102 will work and might fit between the prop hub and bearing since it req only 1/4". I have used the PPF 102 on my 21EC and it seems to be a very heavy, strong piece of kit.

This (http://rammount.com/propull/propull_rem ... detail.htm) website shows the entire line of Pro Pull prop pullers.

Let us know how the prop pulling and tuning goes.

Fair winds,

/david
I have no financial or other interest in these products or websites.

 

[circusmar]

Cutwaters are 1 1/2 in shafts. Not a complete derail as our boat being shockingly heavy is what is driving the need to pull and depitch. We have an early model C28 and about 3/8 of an inch between the prop hub and cutlas bearing. We are in the water so a harmonic puller is not an option. I have used the pro-pull in the past and am a fan.

 

[SGIDAVE]

Cutwaters are 1 1/2 in shafts. Not a complete derail as our boat being shockingly heavy is what is driving the need to pull and depitch. We have an early model C28 and about 3/8 of an inch between the prop hub and cutlas bearing. We are in the water so a harmonic puller is not an option. I have used the pro-pull in the past and am a fan.

If it's a 1 1/2" shaft you have the choice of the C-clamp style puller (model PPF 118) which requires 5/8" clearance between prop hub and bearing. The PPF 103 recommended above is another option although it requires slightly more clearance than the C-clamp style.

If your boat has TOO LITTLE clearance, I would suggest you FIX that so the prop can be more easily removed. It is conceivable of situations when the prop is damaged or fowled and you wish to change to your spare prop quickly. In your present situation I guess that is impossible.

One possible fix is to create more clearance between prop hub and cutlass bearing. Having a new drive shaft made that is 3/4 to 1" longer is one option. But rather costly!

Another way is to insert a spacer where the shaft is coupled to the transmission. There are pre-made products on the market under the names called DRIVE SAVER such as this

Defender sells this brand.

Another brand is called R & D Marine Flexible shaft coupling which looks like this

Another option is to have a aluminum or stainless plate made at a machine shop. Have is made whatever thickness you need the shaft lengthened. So, half or 3/4" thickness may be plenty. Easy peasy!

just my $0.02

Fair Winds,

/david

 

[circusmar]

SGIDAVE:

Thanks for your considered response. A spacer isn't really a great option for us as we have only about an inch and a quarter between the shaft log and the coupler in the inside. Changing the packing out was a total nightmare!!

We may wind up seeing if we can shorten our shaft log at a subsequent haul-out to make our packing more user friendly.

The "correct" answer is to have a new shaft made but we have a few other issues on our boat that are more pressing. I don't relish the thought of trying to separate the shaft and the coupling with as little working space as we have. One local shop recommended lifting the transmission out to create space 😱