C30 Fuel Tank

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G

ginoc

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Sep 19, 2017
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Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Outboard)
Hi I posted in the General discussion section as well, but wanted your feedback as well.

C30 Fuel Tank
Postby ginoc on Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:42 pm
How hard is it to remove the fuel tank on a C30? I was smelling some diesel coming from the fuel tank compartment, so I disassembled the step for access. When I did I noticed about 10-15 screws, bolts and drill bits left between the fuel tank and fuel tank well. I was able remove most screws with mechanical fingers, but two remain and are cutting into the tank. Short term I will shim up the space between the well wall and tank to limit the pressure on the screw, but eventually the tank will need to be removed. Not sure why the screws were left in there. This should be reviewed as it could become a environmental disaster.

Gino Cruciani
2016 C30
 
I've also found a fair number of screws and nuts rattling around loose in the bilge of my 2016 C28. A few other things I've noticed that point towards a lack of QC include wiring connectors that were never heated to shrink around wiring, wiring run over sharp metal edges without protection, GENSET enclosure vent line crushed during installation and one case of a single hose clamp being used below waterline.

Still like the boat but, fell like I had to go over everything with a fine tooth comb before feeling like I can really trust it.
 
Send some photos to the customer service representatives. This is the information they want to see so they can improve the quality control at the build level. I'm sure if they feel it warrants the tank to me removed or repaired they will help with the repair. This type of failure is an easy fix at the factory level. A fuel spill from poor workmanship would not be something Fluid Motion would want to happen to an owner of a Cutwater or Ranger.
 
Thanks Brian,

I haven’t heard from them at this point. I used to be in the boat building business and understand the need to get things done in efficient manor to keep cost in check, but there is know excuse for this. I have removed the majority of the screws, nuts, bolts and drill bits, however one remains at the bottom of the tank that would not be accessible unless the tank was removed.

Gino Cruciani
 
Gino,

Thank you for posting about this. We do have a section on our checklists to clean out bilge areas and compartments prior to putting components in. There will always be some build debris but, I agree with you that we should do a better job of this. In regard to pulling the tank, I have never pulled one personally and know that it wouldn't be an easy task on any boat let alone ours. If it ever got to this point, we would be happy to discuss it with you and welcome a phone call at any time. You have the cell number of every employee on our team so don't hesitate to call.

Thank you,
 
Thanks Andrew,

There is one screw that is pretty buried at the aft left section of the tank. Do you think the tank is thick enough in that section to not worry about it? I know the thickness of the screw because I have the ones I removed. If the tank is thicker than that we will probably be safe. Does the well the tank sits in drain into the bilge or is it contained? I just don’t want fuel going into the water.

Looks like we would have to remove half the interior to remove the fuel tank.

Thanks again for your help on this.

Gino
 
Ginoc, I think you are on the right trail with the plastic wedge. If you can see the screw and can drain the tank as much as possible, then tap a plastic wedge in like you said to lift the tank a bit, then you need to find the best extraction tool. I suggest using gravity to assist if you can. If you have a trailer, park on a hill to assist. A small wire like a cut off wire hanger with a small loop in the end can help reach in and drag the SS screw out. It might be a little indented into the tank or floor as you said but getting it to move a little helps a lot sometimes.

I used to handle leaks, squeaks and whistles for a GM dealership and have seen a lot of similar things like you are talking about. I found interruptions caused a lot of issues especially with the introduction of cell phones (yep old dog). "Now where was I ?' 10 to 15 interruptions a day break a techs concentration and no matter how good you are, things can get easily overlooked and productivity suffers.

You may have heard about the nightmares of disgruntled assembly workers on the line placing washers inside the "A" pillar (windshield pillar). OMG the frustration of trying to fix a rattle that drives the consumer crazy. :shock:
 
Hello Gino,

I think the easiest solution is to run the fuel tank close to empty so it can be lifted up slightly to remove the screw. If you can send me a photo of where you are seeing it, we can come up with some ideas to remove it.

Thank you,
 
And, yes that compartment should have holes in it or limber holes through the stringer to run aft to the bilge. I can get photos of one being installed so you can see it. Good news, in my fifteen years, I have seen one fuel tank failure at Ranger Tugs and Cutwater boats and, it was a flaw in plastic welding in the tank. We shipped the boat back and replaced the tank before it was ever delivered to the customer. At that point, the dealer caught it. It was not on a Cutwater boat in case you are wondering.
 
I just emailed you a picture of the location and can try to get a better pic if needed.

Thanks,

Gino
 
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