CB30 wiring schematics

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davidr

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Cutwater cb30
Have a issue with the engine start battery. From time to time, i must parallel the house batteries to turn over the engine. Seems somewhat random and can occur after the boat has sat or after it has run for several hours. Normall, I would suspect the battery but it seems to be too random.

Was looking at the owners manual wiring schematic and it appears that the inverter/charger circuit only charges the house batteries. Is that correct? Also, the diagrams do not show how the engine alternator is tied in nor the solar system.
Andrew....are there more diagrams? The book has a diagrams for house wiring etc.
 
Hello. Please feel free to call us at the main office and select customer service. We can walk you through what you need to know.

Thank you!
 
Wow! You have voiced my concerns as well. I know the batteries in my 2016 C30CB are probably getting tired, but having the possibility of not being able to start that big Volvo always on my mind kind of takes the joy out of cruising. I have just ordered a new (Northstar) start battery to be on the safe side.
Andrew: please post the tricks/solutions that are unknown to the Cutwater masses.....and that are not in the owners manual.
Thanks,
-Dennis
 
Hello,

First things first, the inverter gets its power from the house batteries. This means with a combo charge unit it will also charge that bank first. After the house battery is charged, it uses the Automatic charging relays to charge the other two banks of batteries.

For the solar, it runs directly from the solar panel to a controller. From the controller it runs directly to the house batteries and then to the engine battery. It is a two bank charge controller. This can be setup to charge 90% to one bank and 10% to the other or 50-50.

For the engine start battery, this could be several things. The most common scenario I see is the battery is not actually fully charged or the battery has weakened enough that it is providing enough amperage to turn it over. If you can parallel the house to engine battery and it starts, it tells me it is not a grounding issue and maybe a weak battery. If I was going to put a different battery in, I would go with something that can output 950 CCA for starting power. I have found a select few AGM's that can achieve this. Optima is one.

Hope this helps,

Andrew
 
dennis41":2idmkcen said:
Wow! You have voiced my concerns as well. I know the batteries in my 2016 C30CB are probably getting tired, but having the possibility of not being able to start that big Volvo always on my mind kind of takes the joy out of cruising. I have just ordered a new (Northstar) start battery to be on the safe side.
Andrew: please post the tricks/solutions that are unknown to the Cutwater masses.....and that are not in the owners manual.
Thanks,
-Dennis
Click to expand...
I am in somewhat the same situation. With our 2017 CW30 we are on our fourth season with the stock batteries. When our engine is cold (probably 10 degrees C or 50 degrees F) we have needed to parallel the batteries. I now parallel the batteries all the time other than when I forget or the engine is warm! So I am thinking of buying a much higher CCA start battery but am curious about which battery you ordered Dennis? The Northstar group 27 or the group 31? The stock battery on our boat is 535 CCA so it is well below what Volvo calls for which is 750 CCA and 75 ah so it is not surprising that the UB 121100 is a bit light for the task for starting. They do a good job of deep cycle duty tho. For Davidr the intermittent nature of your issue does seem strange. Maybe the alternator is not charging all the time? Are the belts tight or do they squeak?
Good luck with it
 
Thanks Andrew. I've ordered a Northstar group 31 battery which has 1050 CCA's. At 75lb I'm not looking forward to the replacement process, but it will be worth it. Double the price of the OEM battery too. Removing the starting uncertainty will definitely enhance the cruising experience.I do wonder why the original starting battery does not have the CCAs Volvo suggests.
-Dennis
 
Again, this is about a 2016 C30CB and is another battery/charging question. While playing contortionist in anticipation of start battery replacement, I took a look at the Solar Panel controller, "Sunsaver Duo". It has (1) input (solar), & (2) outputs: #1 & #2. #1 goes to the house batteries & #2 to the thruster battery. Question: How does the current get to the start battery? The relay? And - is the voltage shown for #2 battery on the "Remote Meter" actually for #2 battery (start battery), the thruster battery, or start AND thruster batteries, given that the wires from #2 terminals on the controller go first to the thruster battery? The wiring schematic doesn't offer an answer. A simple explanation of how all of this goes together would really be appreciated. Andrew?
Thanks,
-Dennis
 
Hello Dennis,

The way I have always seen the solar is wired this way. #1 to house battery and #2 to engine battery. Whatever these wires are hooked too is what the Sun saver would read off of. If the charging voltage exceeds 13.2 volts or so, the relays will activate and allow charging to all banks just like the engine would when it is running. I have seen people switch these around to avoid the lockout situation to keep the thruster battery up. If the Voltage drops below 10.8 volts or so on the thruster battery, the only way to bring it up so the relays activate is with a jumper box or jumper cables to tie to the other batteries to trick it into charging.

Thank you,
 
Thanks Andrew, I think.You're saying the factory setup is the wires from #2 on the controller go to the Start battery, which means my boat was wired incorrectly? Should I move those wires to the Start battery? Does the Start battery get any love at all from the solar panel with my current setup?
So right now #2 on the Remote Meter gives a voltage reading for the Thruster battery & the only reading for the Start battery is on the analog gauge on the electrical panel. As I think you've said, the controller only gives feedback from the batteries to which it is connected.
I don't know what role the relays play in the charging scheme. Perhaps they even things up,i.e., distribute amps to the batteries that have a need?
Sorry to drag this out, just trying to get grip on the charging system.
Thank for your help,
-Dennis
P.S. If you see Dave, please say hello for me. Maybe we can race around the bouys one last time.
 
I am experiencing the same on our 2015 CW 30 CB. Both house and starting batteries were replaced 18 months ago. This season the starting battery won't start the cold D6435 if no charging has happened for 24 hours. I have to flip to parallel.
I'm trying to track down everything drawing off the starting battery and have been told that the propane switch uses this circuit. So, I'm being careful and am testing, hard to believe leaving something like this on would make a difference.
 
I’m not sure what battery is installed in the 30. But if it’s the universal agm ub110 ah. This doesn’t have high CCA and the d6435 needs a lot of cranking amps. Worth checking the specs of your installed. battery.
 
Yes, I agree. I suspect you are right


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Where did you find the CCA of the Volvo D6? "Volvo calls for which is 750 CCA"
I've been looking and cannot find a source.
 
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