freedomvango
Well-known member
Let me preface this with how I define "effective":
Blackout capability, maximum thermal insulation and reflectivity, all in a lightweight, easy-to-install and remove package that also looks clean—depending on your fabric of choice.
Achieving all that typically isn’t cheap.
Only using reflective material fixes it about 60%
Canvas only is about 30%
Canvas and reflective is more like 65%
The key here is to have reflective and actual insulating materials in all the locations of the big fishbowl to achieve the best results.
The drive for this is to minimize the demand on the AC or Heater during extremes of the seasons in Florida. to maximize the effectiveness of the AC itself, control energy usage, thus maximizing solar production to prolong the amount of time I don't need to be at a slip
In the van world, we tackle this using products from VanMadeGear.com. A good example is this:
vanpartswarehouse.com
Now, the Ranger Tug presents some unique challenges. There’s nothing magnetic around the windows or trim, so installation isn’t as simple as using magnets alone. To solve that, I’ve decided to use two mounting methods:
1. Snads
Snads are snap bases backed with 3M VHB adhesive—no drilling required. You stick the base to the frame and install matching snaps in the shade. I’m using this method on all the side windows, skylights, and eventually the main aft doors and windows. It’s non-permanent, clean, and won’t become an eyesore over time. Velcro, by contrast, tends to lose adhesion—especially in Florida’s heat.
2. Magnets
For the roof hatches, I’m using magnets. By pulling the hatch trim down and embedding magnets behind it, the shade (which also contains magnets) will snap into place quickly and securely. I’ll probably use this method on the side ports too.
Pattern-Making Process
This part is easily the most tedious, but here’s my approach:
Step 1 – Build a frame template:
I use 2" RamBoard strips and hot glue to create a mock frame.
Template framing with RamBoard
Step 2 – Transfer to Reflectix:
Once I confirm the frame works, I transfer the shape to Reflectix to test fitment and adjust as needed.
Template check with Reflectix
Step 3 – Digitize the pattern:
I photograph the Reflectix template from above, import the image into design software, scale it correctly, and trace the outline.
Step 4 – CNC cutting:
The digitized pattern is cut on a CNC to ensure precision.
Cutting the pattern on CNC
Step 5 – Fabric prep:
Using the CNC-cut template and a hot knife, I cut the outer ripstop nylon, insulation, and interior canvas layers.
Material prep for sewing
Note: This isn’t the final material. The production version will use the same rigid insulation that VanMadeGear uses for better shape and insulation value. This version is mostly for rapid prototyping and verifying fit before I send the final digital files off to VanMade.
Here’s what the first version looks like layered with ripstop exterior, insulation, and canvas interior. Final versions will be solid color (gray or sand).
Prototype layer stack
Step 6 – Assembly:
I'm no professional tailor, but I can sew in a straight line. I clipped everything together and stitched it up.
Sewing assembly
Then I applied the bias tape, and just like that—done.
Finished prototype
Final Fit Test
Time to install and test fit on the boat.
First fit test
Final adjustment check
So far, fitment is great. The starboard window needs about an inch trimmed from the center, but otherwise everything is spot on.
Next Step: Send off the files and wait for the final product!
Plans are to do the 25s next, then move on to the 27s.
Stay tuned—more to come in a few weeks!
Blackout capability, maximum thermal insulation and reflectivity, all in a lightweight, easy-to-install and remove package that also looks clean—depending on your fabric of choice.
Achieving all that typically isn’t cheap.
Only using reflective material fixes it about 60%
Canvas only is about 30%
Canvas and reflective is more like 65%
The key here is to have reflective and actual insulating materials in all the locations of the big fishbowl to achieve the best results.
The drive for this is to minimize the demand on the AC or Heater during extremes of the seasons in Florida. to maximize the effectiveness of the AC itself, control energy usage, thus maximizing solar production to prolong the amount of time I don't need to be at a slip
In the van world, we tackle this using products from VanMadeGear.com. A good example is this:
Sprinter - Windshield Shade by Vanmade Gear
**FREE SHIPPING on all domestic orders! Current lead time is approximately 3-4 weeks** With Vanmade Gear's windshield cover, you can maintain your privacy and regulate the temperature in your van’s cab. It blocks out UV rays, insulates, and reflects radiant heat, keeping your cab cooler in the...
vanpartswarehouse.com
Now, the Ranger Tug presents some unique challenges. There’s nothing magnetic around the windows or trim, so installation isn’t as simple as using magnets alone. To solve that, I’ve decided to use two mounting methods:
1. Snads
Snads are snap bases backed with 3M VHB adhesive—no drilling required. You stick the base to the frame and install matching snaps in the shade. I’m using this method on all the side windows, skylights, and eventually the main aft doors and windows. It’s non-permanent, clean, and won’t become an eyesore over time. Velcro, by contrast, tends to lose adhesion—especially in Florida’s heat.
2. Magnets
For the roof hatches, I’m using magnets. By pulling the hatch trim down and embedding magnets behind it, the shade (which also contains magnets) will snap into place quickly and securely. I’ll probably use this method on the side ports too.
Pattern-Making Process
This part is easily the most tedious, but here’s my approach:
Step 1 – Build a frame template:
I use 2" RamBoard strips and hot glue to create a mock frame.
Template framing with RamBoard
Step 2 – Transfer to Reflectix:
Once I confirm the frame works, I transfer the shape to Reflectix to test fitment and adjust as needed.
Template check with Reflectix
Step 3 – Digitize the pattern:
I photograph the Reflectix template from above, import the image into design software, scale it correctly, and trace the outline.
Step 4 – CNC cutting:
The digitized pattern is cut on a CNC to ensure precision.
Cutting the pattern on CNC
Step 5 – Fabric prep:
Using the CNC-cut template and a hot knife, I cut the outer ripstop nylon, insulation, and interior canvas layers.
Material prep for sewing
Note: This isn’t the final material. The production version will use the same rigid insulation that VanMadeGear uses for better shape and insulation value. This version is mostly for rapid prototyping and verifying fit before I send the final digital files off to VanMade.
Here’s what the first version looks like layered with ripstop exterior, insulation, and canvas interior. Final versions will be solid color (gray or sand).
Prototype layer stack
Step 6 – Assembly:
I'm no professional tailor, but I can sew in a straight line. I clipped everything together and stitched it up.
Sewing assembly
Then I applied the bias tape, and just like that—done.
Finished prototype
Final Fit Test
Time to install and test fit on the boat.
First fit test
Final adjustment check
So far, fitment is great. The starboard window needs about an inch trimmed from the center, but otherwise everything is spot on.
Next Step: Send off the files and wait for the final product!
Plans are to do the 25s next, then move on to the 27s.
Stay tuned—more to come in a few weeks!
Last edited:
