Had it with holding tank vent odors!

We switch our system over to fresh water when we are in salt water. We have no issues at all and do not put anything in the toilet for the smell. We are full time and use and empty the toilet regularly so that may also help. When we are at our home port on a fresh water lake, we use the lake water and use the marina facilities a lot and find we do get some smell. So I do not know if it is the emptying it less or and more likely using the lake water. I am going to try using the fresh water in the tank this summer and see how we do.
 
Thank you for sharing this!!! My question, when you flush after doing business -- do you still use freshwater from the gallon or simply flush using seawater? Much appreciated !!


Seaquel":sfgutih0 said:
I have done a 'cut & paste' to a previous post I made last June 15, 2017, below. A lot of folks use the filters, and some have had great results. However, if you do some research as outlined below, you will find that the odor can be eliminated (rather than masked) by a very simple approach that avoids additional installation, cost, maintenance, etc.

As with most issues, there is more than one answer or approach. In that spirit I offer this approach that has served us well. Since this post last June, we put 57 days/nights on Seaquel including a 17-day trip to Desolation Sound, and continue to have success with eliminating the holding tank problem. So we are now 3 years into this approach, with no investment in a filter, no hassle to install, no additional maintenance to change out filters annually, etc.

Good luck, and happy to answer any other questions regarding this alternative approach!

Here is a link to last year's posting, with the text below that:

posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&t=7625&p=63804#preview

Preview: Re: Holding tank vent filter
Seaquel wrote:
I will offer an alternative perspective on addressing the all-too-common issue of holding tank odor. When we purchased our then 2-year old R27, we inherited not only a reeking holding tank; but also a stench that had lingered inside the boat as well. Like most, my initial action was to install a filter system. However, anything that adds ongoing maintainence and cost gets extra scrutiny before I add it to my boat, and I did some research around CAUSE of the issue rather than the SYMPTOM. My findings:

A) Purchased the small book, "Get Rid Of Boat Odors" written by Peggie Hall, AKA "The Headmistress". Available on Amazon for $9.95. Best ten bucks you'll ever spend!

B) Stopped using my old holding tank treatment chemicals which were not working. Purchased "Odorlos", a holding tank treatment that adheres to the principles espoused in Peggie Hall's book, which is to utilize oxygen as a solution rather than a problem. Think about it: when you add a filter to your waste system you are trapping (masking) the problem. Instead, this is how Odorlos works:

"Provides naturally occurring bacteria with a continuous supply of the best alternative energy source to pure oxygen - nitrates." A 6 lb. tub costs $21.34 at Amazon, and for our 30 gal. holding tank one treatment is about 2 oz., so each tank treatment is literally pennies ($0.22/oz. = $0.44/tank).

The other learning is that leaving any saltwater in the holding tank provides a breeding ground for bad, smelly bacteria. This part is intuitive: saltwater contains all kinds of living organisms that, left in the tank in between boating trips, breed and/or die and begin to stink. Previously, after emptying the blackwater from the holding tank I would pump back in a gallon or two of saltwater (either from the toilet and or from the aft spraydown nozzle) and add the old type of treatment to this. Left alone in between boat usage (with no waste transferred from toilet to holding tank) the tank would begin to stink. That's right, without even adding waste - which is a big clue as to the root of the problem.

Now, here's what I do instead: after emptying the holding tank (and flushing with salt water a couple of times to ensure tank is relatively clear) I add two small scoops of Odorlos directly into the toilet. I then add one gallon of FRESH water into the toilet bowl and flush into the holding tank. That's it.

However, don't be too thrifty with flushing the toilet while on your boat. If you "short-flush" only enough to move contents from the bowl, but not enough to TRANSPORT contents from the toilet through the hoses and all the way into the holding tank you invite the problem. That's because another cause of odor is leaving contents in the untreated hose and not reaching the treatment center (holding tank). The "cost" of filling up your holding tank a little sooner is well worth it compared to managing odor that has permeated your hoses.

Results: not only is the old stench gone, from both the tank and throughout the interior compartments, but it has never returned. We are are well into 2 years on this system and it has worked to perfection, and no additional installation or filters to change out perpetually. I would have shared this sooner, but in fact wanted to go a long enough period to prove the results worked and were not temporary. I'm now convinced enough to recommend this approach without any reservation.
 
I converted my water input to fresh water and don't have any odor.
 
We had odor problems as well. I agree with many of the postings above re flushing the tank when you do pump out.

The odor is from hydrogen sulfide from anaerobic (literally without oxygen) bacteria in the tank. We use NoFlex and add one level cap each day when we are on the boat. When we leave the boat for awhile we add two cap fulls and flush. NoFlex is an oxidizer that converts anaerobic degradation to aerobic. This encourages aerobic bacteria in your tank. If you flush the tank twice as previously described by others, use fresh water to flush instead of sea water, and some No Flex I think you will find your problems are greatly diminished.
 
Never had Oder problem. Use fresh water flush and add treatment after every pump out.
 
I agree that using salt water for flushing is the problem. I use only fresh water and always keep a product called Bio Clean in the head. For me, this product is miraculous! Any time the head is flushed, I simply sprinkle a little Bio Clean in with the waste and flush. The bacteria and enzymes go with the waste into the tank where it simply breaks down the waste into a completely odor-free sludge. Even if you have to go days without a pumpout, it's still in there doing it's thing.

Plus, when you do 'uncork' for the pumpout, there's absolutely no smell. I mean, literally zero. Big plus for me! 😀
 
Hello all, I found this thread while searching for advice on the same problem. I get the solutions suggested here, and will give one of them a try. My question is around “fresh water flushing”. Anyone who says they are flushing with freshwater has actually changed their system to use water from the freshwater tank—is that correct? If not, is there a way to “fresh water flush” on occasion and still use the raw water system at other times? We do not do any longer-range cruising on our boat, and spend maybe 3 nights max on her on any given trip, so I would be able to switch to fresh water for the head with little issues around capacity, but I have no idea how to go about that. Is it a “do it yourself” project, or a boat yard project? Thanks!
 
When we flush we use the head faucet to add some pressured spray to help with flushing and keeping it clean. Obviously, this adds some fresh water to the tank as well. We have a charcoal filter on the vent line that eliminates any smell coming from the tank. The fresh water cleaning of the bowl with occasional cleaning solution keeps the bowl fresh. Our toilet is a Raritan Sea Era. We use only Raritan products for bowl cleaning and tank additive. Mixing products can make them ineffective (chemicals may kill the enzymes/bacteria etc.).
 
Vicki and Al,

Quick question, my apologies if it's answered above. Is the odor coming from the vent, or from the head? If from the vent, then yes, the filter recommendations above are good.

If from the head; next question is when you flush do you see a little back flow going back into the head? If so, it's likely your vent line is clogged. Easy fix on my R27, maybe not so easy on an R29!
 
Our odor problem was in the cockpit, not inside the cabin. The in-line carbon filter solved the problem completely.
That said, after 11 years our Dometic Master Flush 8112 electric toilet developed a smelly leak at the base last month. Having Bellingham Yachts take a look at it to see what the problem is. Could be loose clamp, bad joker valve or something else. Hopefully it’s an easy fix.

PS: Double flushing usung fresh water from the shower head through the toilet has also helped control odor. We double flush often and always at the end of a cruise. We add a packet of chemical after each pumpout to help keep the odors down.
 
Hi Al,
I too had issues with odors and tried all sorts of chemical treatments (some of which are mentioned here and didn’t have good results. I installed a big orange filter which fit behind the oven. It helped a lot but still did not solve the problem completely. Next I stated to rinse my tank. In my case there is a large cap the unscrews right under the floor hatch. Before pumping out I make sure to flush a significant amount of water through the system. Take off the cap, fill the tank at least half full and pump out again. At first I did this 3x, Now 1 rinse is typically enough. We also switched to Happy Camper organic treatment. Thus far it has been working well for us. We use whatever raw water we are in salt or otherwise and make a point to flush enough water through the system.

Odors are very frustrating. Good luck and happy cruising!
 
The one single thing that has helped tremendously for us is, after a pump and one rents, I put about four or 5 gallons of water back into the tank along with the chemical. This one step has nearly eliminated our order problem.

I think because the tank is long and shallow, having a few inches of water covering the entire bottom of the tank might help the process.

Good luck!
Bobby
 
I converted to fresh water flush from the start. Sometimes it will be 2 months before I pump it out never a smell no inline filter. after pump out I fill it with hose approx. 5 gal. then pump it back out.

G
 
captg":2x3l0urw said:
I converted to fresh water flush from the start. Sometimes it will be 2 months before I pump it out never a smell no inline filter. after pump out I fill it with hose approx. 5 gal. then pump it back out.

G
Thanks G. Did you do the conversion yourself, or have it done by a service company/technician? If by yourself, are you able to share any details? Thanks again!
 
Plane to sea,
If you have a Raritan head the company makes a conversion kit for it. When I called them last year they referred to it as the kit put together for the "Tugnuts" group. It was a fairly easy install but you will need to purchase the reinforced tubing, barbed tee, (I used a three way with a turnoff valve), and some stainless steel clamps. I also plugged the salt water line with a brass fitting and clamps. The total cost was around $250.
Hope this helps.

Terry
 
CaptT":1dd69k6h said:
Plane to sea,
If you have a Raritan head the company makes a conversion kit for it. When I called them last year they referred to it as the kit put together for the "Tugnuts" group. It was a fairly easy install but you will need to purchase the reinforced tubing, barbed tee, (I used a three way with a turnoff valve), and some stainless steel clamps. I also plugged the salt water line with a brass fitting and clamps. The total cost was around $250.
Hope this helps.

Terry

Thanks CaptT--much appreciated. I'll check it out.
 
Anybody knows where is the vent filter located on R-31CB?
 
I recently installed the air Force charcoal filter. on my R29 the ID is 5/8 in. I had to by two 5/8 barb to 3/4 inch regular hose thread. with the right connections it was a 20 minute job. Works great. on the R29 it will fit but it is tight. Good luck. PM me and I can send you a photo.
 
oops I see the original post was a few years ago. Still I hope the information i gave will be of use to others. The air force vent filter works very well.
 
s199811":2145xtqc said:
Anybody knows where is the vent filter located on R-31CB?

Apologies if I missed this posted somewhere else, but tagging on to this, where would folks recommend putting a vent filter on an R31, and how do you get to it?

Directly related, we believe our smell issue may have happened given the level indicator on the tank not working, overfilling it, and then potentially we now have some residual bad smelling material in the vent line? Seem plausible? Is there a recommended way to clean that out by running water backwards through the vent?
 
Back
Top