Honda 2000 and Air conditioning

[knotflying]

We just bought an R-27 with Air conditioning and opted not to have the diesel generator. I have a Honda 2000 and according to the specs on the A/C it should be sufficient to run it. However, when I tried it the A/C starts up on the surge, but then kicks out. Has anyone had a similar issue with a resolution to the problem. I did make up a shorter cord with 10 gauge wire about 8 feet long, but no progress.

 

[steveandtina]

if your ac unit has a fan only option [i am reasonably sure it does] try turning it on first , let it run for a few minutes then go to ac using the lowest fan setting possible. this worked well for tina and i in the sea of corrtez with a small home depot window unit installed in the stearn starboard window. hope this helps,,,,,steveandtina somewhere soon to be on the west coast of fla........... 😀

 

[steveandtina]

ACTUALLY, IT WAS THE STEARN PORT WINDOW[THE STARBOARD WINDOW---PORTHOLE--- WOULD HAVE MADE FOR A NICE COOL HEAD :lol:

 

[thataway]

I don't know what size AC you have, but the problem is that the startup power draw is often 3x the running power for many AC units. The Honda EU 2000 puts out 16.7 amp momentarily and 13.3 amps continuously. You also have the AC water pump (which can add one amp of current draw, as well as the blowers as noted above which use more current on higher speed.

Be sure that the Honda Generator is on full throttle, not eco mode. Be sure that the battery charger is turned off in the boat, as well as any other AC appliances. If the AC still will not start, you can add a second or "easy start" capacitor (SUPCO SPP5 or SPP6) to bring the startup load down. Generally 5,000 BTU AC units will pull a little over 5 amps and the 7,000 BTU units about 7 amps running....but 3x that is more than the Honda can handle for more than a second or so.

There are several ways to find out what the current draw is--cheapest is the "Kill-a-watt" Meter--usually about $30. These plug directly into the generator, and then the cord to the boat input into the meter, and read the watts or amps output (it also gives voltage and hz--if the generator bogs down). Another way is to buy a Craftsman AC/DC clamp on meter #8269--good multimeter, as well as clamp on AC and DC current meter--does temps, capacitance, resistance, diodes as well as voltage. Either of these meters will measure the start up load. If it is beyond what the Honda 2000 will do, there are several choices (assuming that the hard start capacitor doesn't work); one is to use a 12 volt water circulation pump. Another is to go the the Yamaha 2400 (heavier) which will do a 20 amp surge and continuous 16.7 amps. (and is designed for a 13.500 BTU RV air conditioner--which takes two 2000 Hondas (disclosure I run a 8300 RV type of AC unit on my boat with a Honda EU 2000). Finally there is the option of a second Honda EU2000i, with the second unit being one of the Companion units with a 30 amp plug and parallel kit.

 

[knotflying]

I will try the reccomendation of shutting everything down and also running the fan only first. I also did a search on the SUPCO SPP5 or SPP6. Knowing enough to be dangerous, where exactly in the circuit would I install it?

 

[bbrh842]

knotflying,

Many others have reported using the Honda 2000I to power the A.C. with no problems.

However, I had what appears to be exactly the same issue as yours, with my Honda 2000i.
When the A.C. tries to start, the generator bogs down, and the overload light comes on.
When the overload light comes on, the Honda continues to run, but quits producing electricity.
I think I may not have been warming up the Honda sufficiently for it to go to full power when the load of the A.C. was applied.

I know the A.C. draws 1000 watts with the fan on high, as measued by the Killowatt device mentioned earlier by another person.
I also know the 3X rule of thumb mentioned by another person.
That is, you might need 3 times the running watts to start the A.C.
Give me a few minutes to do the math.
O.K. The A.C. may require as much as 3000 watts to start up.
This is clearly more than the Honda is designed to deliver.

So......it is a mystery to me how anyone is getting the good results they are reporting, using the Honda 2000I
But........I have found a way to start the A.C. using the Honda.

The first and most obvious thing, already mentioned by another person, be sure all the breakers on the A.C. panel are off. You don't want anything else ON when you are trying to start the A.C.
Be sure the Honda is NOT in ECO mode.
Start the Honda and let it warm up for a few minutes with no load.
Then turn ON the WATER HEATER breaker.
This forces the Honda to come up to full power, because the water heater requires 1800 watts.
Cycle the WATER HEATER on and off a couple of times.
I can only presume this "exercises" the mechanisim that causes the Honda to go to full power when a heavy load is applied. It also insures that the Honda is fully warmed up.

NOW...turn OFF the Water Heater breaker and turn ON the A.C. breaker.
Turn on the A.C.
The A.C. will start, BUT, and this is the scary part.
Watch the volt meter on the A.C. panel. When the compressor kicks in, you will see the meter drop to about 60 volts!
You will hear the Honda come up to full power.
It takes almost a full second for the Honda to come up to full power and the voltage to return to normal.

I am surprised am amazed that the drop in voltage to 60 volts does not blow out the A.C.
The honda is clearly not up to the task of starting the A.C.
Somehow it seems to work, but all the math says it should not work.

I got an ETQ 3500I generator to replace the Honda.
I have not taken it to the boat yet, so I cannot report on results.
I expect it should be able to easily start the A.C. even when other items are turned on.
In theory, it is almost the same as being plugged into shore power.
It is only a couple of inches longer, wider, and higher than the Honda, and weighs only 70 lbs.
It is about 300 dollars cheaper than the Honda 2000I.

Down side to the ETQ, there is not yet an after market fuel cap that will allow you to hook it up to an outboard fuel tank.
Unless you live in a big city, service is going to be a problem.
On the plus side, it is so cheap, long as it lasts at least a couple of years, if it conks out, I'll just throw it away and get a new one.

 

[SlackwaterJack]

ETQ3500 is also avail in propane fueled and there is also a diesel version sold by Home Depot (it's bigger and heavier though)
I had a Honda 3000 on a previous boat that ran a 13000 btu Dometic rooftop AC/heater unit without a problem (in eco mode). Hondas are pricey but you can't beat the quality.

 

[thataway]

The SUPCO SPP5 or SPP6 have dual male/female add on spade terminals, so you can parallel to any start capacity which will be on your Air Conditioner unit. Just plug and play in parallel.

My concern about some of the other generators is the noise level and longivity. They may be fine--but 62 Db is almost twice as loud as 52 Db. The Hondas have a very long life. I have a unit which is 500 watts continously and 800 watts boost, Honda, which I prucahsed about 40 years ago; it still starts on the first or second pull and runs like a champ. This is despite being on boats for over 100,000 ocean miles--as an emergency back up--and used for battery charging and lighting on numerous occasions.

If you are dropping voltage to 60 volts, you are not doing any favor to either the air conditioning unit or the generator. Under those circumstances I would make alternative arrangements. If you know that you will be running the AC unit all night, or until it runs out of fuel and not turning off, or restarting; it might be possible to start the AC unit using two Honda EU 2000i's--and then when running cut down to one generator and eco mode. We often run our air conditioner just to get the cabin cooled down well, and then cut the generator and AC unit off. Later in the evening, we may open a hatch or turn on a 12 volt fan (Vantastic or Endless Breeze fans thru the fore hatch do very well)

 

[Boont Boater]

I agree with thataway that you aren't doing any favors to the generator or the air conditioner if you're dropping the voltage down that low. My understanding is that when you start a motor with low voltage the amps draw goes up. High amps equals heat. Hot windings can mean a short life span for the generator windings and the motor windings. As a pump contractor I don't see many "warranty problems". However by remarkable coincidence they almost always involve someone running a pump with a generator.