Jcat2010
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2022
- Messages
- 201
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 (Outboard)
- Vessel Name
- Barchetta
My boat is a 2020 R27 LE that I bought from original owner last year. Here's the list of annoying items that were never addressed by the original owner. Maybe help others in similar situations.
Items found in pre-purchase survey:
1)Propane locker really needs a better drain since it leaves enough water in the bottom to rust the bottom flanges of the propane tanks. Also doesn't help that the cupholder don't have tubing connected to the nipples to drain any water to the bottom of the locker, rather than the top of the cylinders. Added tubing and raised the cylinders on the rubber checkwork lattice so the slosh wouldn't rust the bottom.
2)The center lazarette hatch gas cylinders were not just bad, but inadequate to hold the hatch up. replaced with larger cylinders and added a hinged prop rod for extra support.
3) The grill outlet, behind the stern seat, was not an ignition safe GFCI. With the gas tank and the genset in the same compartment, this was both USCG and AYBC issue. Moved the GFCI to the rear power panel and daisy chained the power to a non GFCI outlet in the original location.
4) Somehow the bilge high water alarm got missed on this build, so I added on of these also.
5) the genset heat exchanger had a leaky end cap that turned out to just need a new gasket.
6) the cockpit canopy had a lot of the velcro stitching that had deteriorated and made the canopy pretty saggy. Had restitched with a UV durable thread.
7) some of the trim tab fasteners were missing or corroded. Turns out that the original dealer had not mounted anodes on the tabs and once we dug into it half the fasteners had to be removed and replaced and resealed.
Now, for the stuff the survey didn't find:
The garboard drain had to be replaced, the original was bronze, with a brass plug and had corroded to where the plug was not removable. Replaced with Bronze/bronze garboard drain.
The genset, Westerbeke, is very sensitive to the oil level and type. Ran fine for the 10 minutes during survey, but in real world after 20 minutes on water run the unit would trip on low oil pressure. Turned out the 50hr maintenance used 30 wt oil and overfilled. Drained and refilled with straight 40 oil and was very careful to fill just to the manual level. Runs fine.
AFT bilge pump quit working on automatic. Bad splice was located very close to the pump. Should have been made at the end of the 3' leads that come with pump, up where things are dry. Redid slices, but will likely have to replace over time with pump with longer leads.
Found several "loose" screws in the swim platform insert. Removed and learned that several of the holes were either drilled too large, or had wallowed out. Refilled with epoxy, redrilled and resealed.
Had trouble with the AC thermostat - erratic temp issues, set temp and actual temp were never right. Turns out the remote temp sensing thermocouple was all coiled up next to the junction box, not anywhere near the air return grille, and there were lots of leak paths in the monkeyfur panels that bypassed the return filter. Sealed up the leak paths and relocated the thermocouple to the cave, near the return grille. Much better, but still working on the best location to have the cabin temp close to set temp.
Bottom paint- after three light seasons getting repainted each season, by the third season it was evident that the epoxy bond layer was coming off. Upon hauling and pressure washing, there were many "patches" where we could see shiny blue gelcoat. Clearly the original dealer didn't properly prep the hull (60 grit blast or sand) for whatever they used as initial epoxy bond layer.
Rather than patch up the failed spots, and risk that next season there would be others, we had the whole thing blasted and re-epoxied. Then bottom painted.
Found that there is a substantial air gap between the cabin sole plate and the cabin door frame, at the stern of the cabin. Still trying to find a solution, but either air leaks or water leaks are the result. Also, found that there is no seal between the bilge above the gas tank and the cabin, as the cable pass between the two is not sealed. More later.
Items found in pre-purchase survey:
1)Propane locker really needs a better drain since it leaves enough water in the bottom to rust the bottom flanges of the propane tanks. Also doesn't help that the cupholder don't have tubing connected to the nipples to drain any water to the bottom of the locker, rather than the top of the cylinders. Added tubing and raised the cylinders on the rubber checkwork lattice so the slosh wouldn't rust the bottom.
2)The center lazarette hatch gas cylinders were not just bad, but inadequate to hold the hatch up. replaced with larger cylinders and added a hinged prop rod for extra support.
3) The grill outlet, behind the stern seat, was not an ignition safe GFCI. With the gas tank and the genset in the same compartment, this was both USCG and AYBC issue. Moved the GFCI to the rear power panel and daisy chained the power to a non GFCI outlet in the original location.
4) Somehow the bilge high water alarm got missed on this build, so I added on of these also.
5) the genset heat exchanger had a leaky end cap that turned out to just need a new gasket.
6) the cockpit canopy had a lot of the velcro stitching that had deteriorated and made the canopy pretty saggy. Had restitched with a UV durable thread.
7) some of the trim tab fasteners were missing or corroded. Turns out that the original dealer had not mounted anodes on the tabs and once we dug into it half the fasteners had to be removed and replaced and resealed.
Now, for the stuff the survey didn't find:
The garboard drain had to be replaced, the original was bronze, with a brass plug and had corroded to where the plug was not removable. Replaced with Bronze/bronze garboard drain.
The genset, Westerbeke, is very sensitive to the oil level and type. Ran fine for the 10 minutes during survey, but in real world after 20 minutes on water run the unit would trip on low oil pressure. Turned out the 50hr maintenance used 30 wt oil and overfilled. Drained and refilled with straight 40 oil and was very careful to fill just to the manual level. Runs fine.
AFT bilge pump quit working on automatic. Bad splice was located very close to the pump. Should have been made at the end of the 3' leads that come with pump, up where things are dry. Redid slices, but will likely have to replace over time with pump with longer leads.
Found several "loose" screws in the swim platform insert. Removed and learned that several of the holes were either drilled too large, or had wallowed out. Refilled with epoxy, redrilled and resealed.
Had trouble with the AC thermostat - erratic temp issues, set temp and actual temp were never right. Turns out the remote temp sensing thermocouple was all coiled up next to the junction box, not anywhere near the air return grille, and there were lots of leak paths in the monkeyfur panels that bypassed the return filter. Sealed up the leak paths and relocated the thermocouple to the cave, near the return grille. Much better, but still working on the best location to have the cabin temp close to set temp.
Bottom paint- after three light seasons getting repainted each season, by the third season it was evident that the epoxy bond layer was coming off. Upon hauling and pressure washing, there were many "patches" where we could see shiny blue gelcoat. Clearly the original dealer didn't properly prep the hull (60 grit blast or sand) for whatever they used as initial epoxy bond layer.
Rather than patch up the failed spots, and risk that next season there would be others, we had the whole thing blasted and re-epoxied. Then bottom painted.
Found that there is a substantial air gap between the cabin sole plate and the cabin door frame, at the stern of the cabin. Still trying to find a solution, but either air leaks or water leaks are the result. Also, found that there is no seal between the bilge above the gas tank and the cabin, as the cable pass between the two is not sealed. More later.
