SCAD Model # 10022 holding tank monitor

[Red Raven]

Baz added a flow meter for this years ago. See the following thread.

K

Post in thread 'Holding tank pumpout?'

Jul 20, 2019

This was a problem for our 2019 R27-OB as well. We installed the same Fill-Rite flow meter (TT10ANC) as Barry, but I can tell you the manufacturer will say that model is not recommended for saltwater. If fact, the flow meter on Barry's former R27-OB quit working and was replaced with a polycarbonate model that the manufacturer does recommend. Once receiving the proper unit, it is easy to do the inline installation on the raw water supply line forward of the "T" fitting that supplies the raw water washdown pump. Good luck!

• Kimberly Dawn

 

[watson1987]

I just installed the SCAD monitor for my holding tank, the existing Tecma sensors always report green on my tank.

I just calibrated the tank last night during a pump out and now it's successfully reports full and empty, and while pumping another full tank of water out, it goes down smoothly on the 10 LEDs every few seconds. Perfect

It only took 3 hours to install, most of the time spend was pushing the wire from the tank to the toilet location, I ended up needed to remove the tank holds and slide the tank forward to re-plumb the snake, if I did this from the start it would have been even faster. I tapped into the 12V from the cigarette socket in the berth that is right behind (which has been replaced with a couple of USB only plugs)

 

[Eagle 2]

I installed a SCAD on my Mainship Pilot 30 (Still for sale) a year ago, it’s been great, as you know exactly how much material is in the tank. For us that boat in So Cal, and frequent Catalina Island, where they Dye Tab the holding tanks, it’s important to know your exact state if fullness in your holding tank. Pretty straight Forward install, calibration was a bit tricky, but if you read the directions, a few times, it makes sense!

 

[Eagle 2]

I installed a SCAD on my Mainship Pilot 30 (Still for sale) a year ago, it’s been great, as you know exactly how much material is in the tank. For us that boat in So Cal, and frequent Catalina Island, where they Dye Tab the holding tanks, it’s important to know your exact state if fullness in your holding tank. Pretty straight Forward install, calibration was a bit tricky, but if you read the directions, a few times, it makes sense! View attachment 26161

 

[Outfall]

I broke down and after careful research I bought and installed A Gobius C monitor for my holding tank on my 2022 Ranger Tug 27. The monitor fit nicely on top of the tank after much cotorsion and weird gymnastics getting to the tank to install the monitor. I also installed a Weimer analog gauge in the head so that I can get a quick visual of the level inside the tank.
The Gobius C uses Bluetooth through an app called Bluefy to monitor the tank from your cell phone. The instructions to finally connect to the monitor and setting up the parameters are horrible, but patience and perseverance paid off after understanding how to make the connection. I have the system on the accessory switch so that it does not have to be on all the time. Also, you do not have to wait for the tank to be empty or full for calibration as it needs only to know the capacity, tank form (rectangular, angled, square, etc.) and depth of the tank (in metric). I've checked it a number of times and both the analog meter in the head and the bluetooth connection are working just fine.

I would have used the Scad but there just doesn't seem to be a way to attach the foils to the side of the tank without doing some major alterations for access.

Would you mind sharing the tank parameters you used to calibrate unit? This sounds like an interesting solution.

 

[Eagle 2]

Would you mind sharing the tank parameters you used to calibrate unit? This sounds like an interesting solution.

Standard Rectangular parameters. The instructions tell you the parameters for size . Write down all of your parameters so when the sequence goes thru it’s porocess, you already know what to push beforehand. If you want to change anything, you simply go thru the process again. Tedious but straightforward. You will need to program both full and empty.

 

[Eagle 2]

Standard Rectangular parameters. The instructions tell you the parameters for size . Write down all of your parameters so when the sequence goes thru it’s porocess, you already know what to push beforehand. If you want to change anything, you simply go thru the process again. Tedious but straightforward. You will need to program both full and empty.

Here is my Scad I mounted on my CB 30

 

[Eagle 2]

Here is my Scad I mounted on my CB 30View attachment 27017

 

[Eagle 2]

Scad monitor as stated above, is not terribly hard to install, it’s the calibration that takes time and patience. In theory, it should only take 15 minutes, I’ve installed 3 now, and each one has its own nuances. Read and follow the manual on calibration exactly! I pre wrote down all the settings and as it goes thru each step of calibration, I’m not fumbling for the correct button push. Once you get it working properly, ifs fantastic!

 

[Mastercraft]

I did the calibration with the boat on a trailer in my yard. I filled the black water tank probably three times with a garden hose and used the Macerator to pump out in yard. I took probably three hours to calibrate and verify. I think it would be impossible to be sure the calibration was correct any other way. I also checked to see factory stock red yellow green lights at same time. The red light never came on. Yellow light at 40% black water full. That varies on each boat since I doubt factory sticks gauge on the exact same place on each tank

 

[Eagle 2]

I did the calibration with the boat on a trailer in my yard. I filled the black water tank probably three times with a garden hose and used the Macerator to pump out in yard. I took probably three hours to calibrate and verify. I think it would be impossible to be sure the calibration was correct any other way. I also checked to see factory stock red yellow green lights at same time. The red light never came on. Yellow light at 40% black water full. That varies on each boat since I doubt factory sticks gauge on the exact same place on each tank

Sounds about right, but mine lives in the water year round. I calibrated at the pump out dock. Filled and emptied about 3 times as well. If you make a mistake you pretty much have to start all over, thus the learning curve on the calibration process.

 

[watson1987]

Sounds about right, but mine lives in the water year round. I calibrated at the pump out dock. Filled and emptied about 3 times as well. If you make a mistake you pretty much have to start all over, thus the learning curve on the calibration process.

Would it have killed them to add 2 buttons to make programming less magic? Press for 3 seconds, not 4 seconds, if you hold for 5 seconds then you need to continue hold for another 10 seconds or your tank will explode. Ugh!