Scupper flap replacement

[colinm]

I noticed yesterday that the flap on the scupper is missing on my 26' Cutwater. Does anyone know the correct replacement part?
Also, any reason this might be missing? Looks to be ripped off where it attaches to the scupper. The boat has 150 hours on and is kept in fresh water with the occasional trip out into the salty brine.

Thanks
Colin

 

[NorthernFocus]

In direct answer to the questions posed, I can't provide any info on where to get one nor what might possibly have happened to it. I will say that one of the first things I did on my boat was to remove the flaps. IMO they do more harm than good by restricting flow, plugging with trash, etc.

 

[rpmerrill]

Mine are pretty dried out and stiff. I believe that they really restrict the flow.
I've been thinking of a little "surgery" myself.

 

[knotflying]

The flaps are required to prevent water being forced back up the tubes. When you stop suddenly or if another boat's wake hits you on the stern or following seas, the flaps will close and prevent water from backing up the tubes. I am assuming they are a requirement by ABYC. Probably not an issue removing them because our drains are so much higher than the water level. However, in the unlikely event that the connection gets compromised at the outlet I would be glad that the flaps are there. I would suggest replacing it and making it a periodic maintenance item. I can reach down between the swim platform gap with a bent paper clip and slip the clip behind the flapper and pull out the flapper and clear the debris.

 

[nzfisher]

If you take these off I recommend you never operate the boat in reverse. With a little work you should be able to fabricate replacements yourself with basic tools

 

[Scuffy]

Yes, I would think making some new flaps out of 3/16" or 1/4" conveyor belt would achieve lasting results.

 

[NorthernFocus]

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/t-h-marine--flapper-scupper-repair-kit--11659364

 

[scross]

After trailering yesterday I noticed I was missing a rubber scupper flap on the rear port side.
On further inspection, the screw that holds the flap in place rusted out and broke off at the head.
So, either I have to take apart and replace the entire assembly with the boat on the trailer or just live with no rubber flap on the port side.
Adding yet another item to the annual maintenance list: recurring inspection of the screws holding those flaps in place. Who would have guessed??

 

[CaptT]

If it's stored in fresh water..........Otter, muskrat and other rodent type creatures love chewing on anything rubber. My brother had an I/O that sank because a river otter chewed through the bellows on his outdrive. The insurance agent wasn't surprised at all. He said it happens all the time.
I'm not saying that's what happened, but if it did, it wouldn't be the first time.

Terry

 

[knotflying]

After trailering yesterday I noticed I was missing a rubber scupper flap on the rear port side.
On further inspection, the screw that holds the flap in place rusted out and broke off at the head.
So, either I have to take apart and replace the entire assembly with the boat on the trailer or just live with no rubber flap on the port side.
Adding yet another item to the annual maintenance list: recurring inspection of the screws holding those flaps in place. Who would have guessed??

Use a small cobalt bit that is smaller than the screw. Drill it and then use an easy out. You may want to apply a little PB Blaster the night before.

 

[scross]

The parts department at Ranger Tugs gave me the sourcing for the scupper through hull I will be replacing. Drilling the tiny, tiny broken off screw body was impossible.
For those who may face this issue going forward, here’s the info on the correct part.
The vendor is White Water Marine Hardware. They offers two sizes of their nylon scupper through hills. One for 1.5” scupper hose and one for 2” hose. I have the 1.5” ID scupper hose. That one has a part number of 6656N-SCP.
If you have 2” ID scupper hose the part number is 6657N-SCP.
The measurements for these two parts are completely scrambled on the White Water web site which is confusing to say the least. Despite what the White Water diagram says, 6656N-SCP has a stainless (exterior on the hull) flange that is 3.25” in diameter and an interior barb for 1.5” ID hose. I have the part 6656N-SCP in hand and have confirmed these measurements match those of the one being replaced. The cost was under $25.

PS: 3M 4200 marine sealant is the recommended caulk for bedding in this application.

 

[KKRCRACE]

On my C 24 the ones from Cutwater are in my opinion to good. They are thick as one would think they should be but after a year or so they became stiff and restricted the water flow out of the cockpit. I found some thinner and more flexible ones on Amazon which I think worked better. I just replace them as needed. They last at least a year and are cheap.
KKRCRACE

 

[KKRCRACE]

You just need to know the diameter.
KKRCRACE

 

[scross]

Update:
Did not replace the scupper through hull. Mine is not sealed in place, it’s epoxied in place. Removing it would be a major operation. Not a job I would ever want to do!
So, how did I resolve the broken off screw that’s suppose to hold the rubber scupper flap in place? Having a new scupper through hull to examine helped a lot. The flap retention screw goes into a nylon tube at the inside top of the through hull that extends 1.75” towards the cockpit side. Using a really small exacto knife, I was able to cut through the nylon tube about .25” back from the flap mount position. Removing this part of the tube exposed the body of the broken off stainless screw. I could then get some needle nose plyers on the screw and twist it out. The broken screw was a 1/2” #4 size. I’m putting in some 7/8” #4 stainless screws on both sides. I’ll be replacing these screws every other year as part of my preventative maintenance list. Really don’t want to deal with a broken off screw there again.