side power shear pin replacement

[knotflying]

Following that scouting motto, "Be Prepared" I started trying to figure out reolacing the shear pin on the thrusters. I started at the bow first, which seems simple enough if you can get to it. I had the air conditioning option put in on my R-27 and the coil unit/return air is right above the thruster. I can see part of the thruster but not the area that you seem to need to get to for access to the 6mm allen bolts. Has anyone performed this operation with the air conditioner installation? Any tips will be helpfull. Also the manual supplied is for two different models, anyone know which one is installed in the R-27? I want to make sure I order the correct spare parts.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[walldog]

I cannot help you on the bow thruster. I have the same configuration with air conditioner. Here is a pictorial of my replacement of the stern thruster shear pin.
First remove the cushions from the propane compartment, then remove the entire lid to the compartment.

Then remove the propane locker and the shelf underneath. This picture shows the shelf removed first. I thought I could get to the thruster motor without removing the propane locker, no chance. So remove the propane locker first, and then shelf, much easier.

You can now clip the switch wires for the propane valve, remove the drain hose and lift the locker out and set it to the side. You should as I did have enough propane hose to do this.

At this point, you can finally "see" the thruster motor. It is down at the very bottom below and behind the black waste tank. You will still need to remove the drain hose for the cockpit scupper. It is on a barbed fitting for the through hull and is very hard to remove even after the clamps are loosened. Also anytime someone steps aboard the port side, sea water will come in the open fitting and fill the area below the thruster motor. There is a drain to the bilge from this area, so eventually the water will make it there and be discharged.

Now you need the special tool supplied in your package of manuals. In this package also find a small ziplock bag with a spare shear pin in it. It may be loose in with your manuals.

Now figure out how you are going to get your hands down far enough in the compartment to put the allen head ratchet wrench on the two cap screws holding the motor. This way did not work for me, my arms are about 6 inches too short for this approach. (Andrew tells me this is how he does it. :mrgreen: )

Finally this is how I was able to get my hands on the motor.

Remove the screws, and you will have enough cable to turn the motor up and set it on top of the waste tank.

At this point, as you can see, the shear pin was OK. So now I put it all back together.

The story of what is actually wrong with my stern thrusters will follow soon. Probably after we return from Desolation Sound.

 

[commander bill]

My R25 has the AC below the dinner seat rather in the bow so access to forward thruster is easy. The rear unit appears to be a #$@*&* and I am thankful that I have had no issues with it. The rear unit appears to require alot of equipment removal to gain access and may require boat be on hard. Search the website as I think at least one tugnutter has had to work on rear unit.

I had assumed all tugs used the same Sidepower units but I may be wrong

 

[knotflying]

Well I have to say seeing Waldog coming out of the stern seat storage was a hoot! The stern removal may be easier than the Bow. I was poking around in there and I cant see how you would be able to lift the A/C unit up and out since all of the tubing is connected. Waldog, thanks for your great pictures and explanation. I suspected that what you did would have to be done so at least now I know what I am up against. Hopefully someone out there has bow experience with A/C.

 

[doke01]

I had to replace the rear thruster on my 2007 R25. It was a beast but you would be able to do it while the boat is in the water. I posted detailed instructions on removing the thruster on one of my early posts http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=125#p1991. It definitely was not fun and I do not want to do it again, although while replacing it I devised a solution that would make it easier in the future.

 

[JerryE]

My buddy has stored a Mainship 34 trawler in my yard for the last decade or so... He recently had SidePower come out an install a bow thruster, which was amazing to watch. They did it in a day, for $7,000. He had a shear pin break, and they came out (they're based in New Bedford, MA) instantly and fixed it. It broke again, and they came back and pulled the unit at his convenience while it was in the water. Turned out to be a manufacturer's error in drilling the the shear pin hole–it was bending the shear pin... They replaced the unit and cleaned up everything. gave him all kinds of spare parts and were super apologetic. They purposely scheduled the service to avoid him having to change weekend cruising plans.

Anyway, he is amazed and awed at the service level. I think the president of the company came out to his boat last time. He thinks he spent his money well. I suspect they will stand behind our thrusters and help in any way. Of course, only a tug owner would dive down the hole to work on the aft thruster... But, I thought I'd share this positive story about a great local company.

 

[Levitation]

I wonder if SidePower President will personally come to the wilds of Michigan and pull the thruster motor that has an internal short to ground? Now that would be service!

 

[JerryE]

Denny-O

Hmmmm, doubtful...

 

[GulfSailor]

Great post with great pics, many thanks 'knotflying'!
It makes the location of, and the relationship between, the shear pin/motor/thruster very clear.
What's more, I was able to finally identify the the tool and the small pin that was in with the manuals, something I'd been scratching my head over for some time!

Thanks again. 🙂

 

[Dale777]

Well I have to say seeing Waldog coming out of the stern seat storage was a hoot! The stern removal may be easier than the Bow. I was poking around in there and I cant see how you would be able to lift the A/C unit up and out since all of the tubing is connected. Waldog, thanks for your great pictures and explanation. I suspected that what you did would have to be done so at least now I know what I am up against. Hopefully someone out there has bow experience with A/C.

knotflying,

Since I recently replaced a broken shear pin for the bow thruster on my R27 which has air conditioning, I've included photos and comments for the procedure.

When trying to do a 180 degree turnaround while waiting for permission to enter the inlet to Palm Island Marina, FL in a very narrow channel with lots of wind and waves, I mistakenly used the bow thruster when the bow was bouncing up and down out of the water. After 2-3 bounces with the bow thruster running, the shear pin broke.

The biggest problem I had - even after getting the thruster area cleared away, battery cables unhooked, and 6mm bolts removed - was getting the thruster motor to unseize from the bow wooden cross-member directly below the motor head. According to Kenny Marrs at Ranger Tugs support, it is likely that the cross-member was glassed, then the motor installed before the glassing was totally dry. So, he convinced me that it was okay to pull, tug, twist, pry the motor and cross-member apart. I think by using a putty knife between the two and doing lots of twisting and tugging, the motor finally unseized and came out easily.

Click on any of the photos to see a larger photo with details:


Procedure from Imtra


A couple of handy tools - 6mm ratchet wrench (from Imtra) and #2 square drive bit with ratchet from auto store


Before and after ducting removed for air conditioner


View into bottom of bow with triangular cover removed (note cross-member where I scraped excess glassing material away) and aft view looking at thruster with motor removed. There were 2 x 6mm bolts holding the motor in place - one on left side and one on right side. Before removing the motor, I took a photo to see how things are arranged in this area, so that I could do the work by feel, since you cannot get your head in this area to see things. I misplaced that photo, so I did not include it.


Photos of the motor with identifying info and finally a photo of the broken shear pin after I removed it with needle nose pliers.

All the work was done with the forward most V-berth cushion removed and with me lying on my belly looking down into the bow area containing the air conditioner and thruster below it.

By the way, I did not have the spare shear pin or the 6mm ratchet tool that apparently is normally included with the bags of manuals. Kenny said that there was a period where they were out of them. So, I ordered them from Imtra.

 

[knotflying]

Great expaination and pictures. It is always nice to learn from someone elses experience!

 

[Crewdog]

Great pictures and it made replacing bow thruster shear pin easy.

I had a hammer in boat tool kit already, just had to bring a punch from home, which now stays in boat.

I would only add that snap ring plier tips come in several sizes; i now have correct size in tool kit.

Our 27 has a/c ducting on port side, so access was easy.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Just replaced our first bow thruster shear pin in our R27, a 2 hour job from time I set foot onto the boat until everything was put back into place when completed and I stepped off of the boat. Interestingly enough, on our R27, the bow thruster cover had a spare shear pin holder on the plastic thruster cover....with a spare shear pin. No promises but I mention this in the event you break your shear pin and do not have a spare onboard, you may look here first.....mine was on the port side of the bow thruster cover. Sorry if this has been covered before but like me there may be many who don't know this.

The culprit was a mooring ball line I sucked into the thruster over this past weekend. The shear pin did its job, nothing else was damaged.

Jim F

 

[knotflying]

So I assume it was your bow thruster?

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Yes it sure was Mike, your photo's helped out a great deal.

 

[Splash]

Just got done with a 4.5 hour aft thruster shear pin replacement on a 2015 R27. I'm a newbie so don't take this as gospel, it's just my experience. The pin broke as I was docking on Lake Union, the weeds are bad this year plus the water is down. I spoke to Kenny (always a good first step). He suggested I take a dip and make sure there was no longer an obstruction. I did and there was. If I hadn't gotten and taken his advice, I would have done the job twice. I can't add anything to walldog's advice and pics (thanks - they were a help!), but here are a couple of things that worked for me:
1. I wedged a kneeling pad (like for gardening) under the unit before taking out the mounting bolts this supported it well. A bath towel might work as well.
2. I didn't have enough slack in the power cables to set the unit on the waste tank to I had to remove them. It was easy and facilitated getting the unit all the way out. In the end this was necessary because the replacement pin took quite a bit of force to drive it in. I couldn't have done it down in the well. If this would have been plan A instead of B, it would have waved at least an hour.
3. To replace the unit, I again used the pad, and added a dock line under the unit. With the help of my wife, I used the dock line (cradling the unit in a U shape) to place it such that I could replace the bolts. She adjusted and secured the line from the swim step.
4. Replacing the power and control cables was straight forward, as was replacing the scupper drain hose.

Hope this helps - and thanks to everyone who posted before, Tugnuts was my first stop.

 

[davidludlow1]

You who did this yourselves are either amazing or crazy (maybe both?) As much as I love monkeying with my boats,
the great detail and photos here make it clear that this is not one for me to try.

 

[Irish Mist]

It is always best to try turning the shaft that goes to the outside by hand once you remove the motor.. It should turn very easily.

 

[Red Raven]

I joined the stern thruster shear pin replacement club this week on our R27. I'm posting on this thread to freshen it as in my opinion it is very valuable. The photos and discussion above helped the process tremendously. I would not recommend doing this process without reading this thread thoroughly and having it handy during the process.

Here are a few notable items good and bad. Sorry for any repetition but you just can't become familiar enough with this stuff.

Tools needed (Place all of these within reach)
Several lights. It's tough to see down there. A bright head lamp is recommended.
Small 6mm Allen head ratcheting wrench (should be supplied with the boat).
A rolled up hand towel to support the motor.
Snap ring pliers with medium tips (sorry I don't know the exact size).
Some form of pin punch to punch out the old shear pin bits and to install the new. I use a small square drive screw driver tip.
A small ball peen hammer to hit the punch. There is not much room down there and it doesn't take much force.
Small tip needle nose pliers. To pick the bits of the old shear pin out.
Flexible mechanical grabber tool. To pick up bolts or tools if you drop them!

1) I used the "climb in the hole" access method. Completely removed the white hinged cockpit seat and storage tray. Crawled in the hole feet first and reached down over the knees. It is very tight but doable if you have some flexibility and can fit in the hole.

2. I did not remove any hoses or wires except the control wire to the thruster. Battery wires stayed connected. The negative to this approach is you cannot pull the thruster motor completely out to service the shear pin.

3. My first bit of trouble was in attempting to remove the two socket head cap bolts with the 6mm ratcheting Allen drive supplied with the boat. I could not get the Allen bit into the bolt head. The ratchet handle interfered with the thruster body. I'm not sure why mine wouldn't fit, I tried for about an hour after being assured by Andrew it could be done. I eventually gave up and ground about 1/32" off the tip of the Allen head bit. Fortunately a slip neighbor had a small hand held grinder. After modification it went right in. For all of you that have this tool I would recommend you shorten the bit now, or before you start as a minimum. Makes things much easier. As long as you still have 1/8" of tip left you'll be fine.

4. Though the wrench is very small, doesn't provide much leverage, and in a very tight place, I was able to free the bolts with a good push/tug without resorting to other means.

5. The immediate next challenge is to not back out the bolt more than about a 1/4 turn before loosening the other bolt. As another on this site has noted your wrench will be pinned if you do. Because the wrench only ratchets one way (without pulling out the tip) if you back the bolt out further the wrench will be pinned against the motor with no way to reverse it. Go back and forth from bolt to bolt giving each a little more of a turn. As the motor becomes loose there is less chance of pinning the wrench as the motor can be pulled back against the bolt head to free the wrench.

6. Once the bolts were free I was able to roll the motor over onto a small cushion (a rolled up hand towel will do) with the shear pin (or lack there of) facing up. A rolled up hand towel will do.

7. At this point refer to the instructions from the Imtra web site on the shear pin replacement reposted above by Dale777. They are invaluable. I started prepared with my snap ring pliers but had the wrong tip size. I had to go to the store to get another set as I couldn't find the other tips for mine :x I recommend the 45 degree angled type to see what you are doing. I had a ball peen hammer but didn't have a pin punch. I used a small square head screwdriver tip as the punch (thanks for the tip Kenny!) I'll be getting a proper punch for the next time. You'll need to punch out the old shear pin bits before inserting the new one. There is a second set of holes for the replacement shear pin but if you don't clear the bits of the old one they may interfere with mounting the mother back on the shaft. The shear pin goes in with the shouldered end first as it is slightly tapered. It did' take much force from the hammer, just a lot of firm tapping. Note also the snap ring needs to be placed such that the opening of the ring fits on the shoulders of the shear pin.

8. I was able to use the towel to hold the motor in place while replacing the screws, first finger tight, and then with the wrench.

Whew! Glad that is over. All set for our next cruise!

Curt

The whole process took about 4.5 hours including the extra time grinding the wrench tip to fit and going to the store for a new snap ring pliers. Having done it once now and having all the right tools I think I could do in an hour or so if I didn't have any new surprises.

 

[rpmerrill]

I know it has been 2 years (or even 5 years) since these post were put up. I'm just writing to say thanks - all. I stripped the shear pin on the bow last weekend. After some looking I found this string of posts. They gave me the confidence to go after it myself.

I won't say it was easy, but it went like clockwork. Exactly as in the photos. A two hour job, as advertised ! I'm a little sore but I'll get over it in a couple days. (70 years old - but spry)

One comment: When I pulled the thruster out I looked around for the center piece of the shear pin. Gone.
But inside the flange/housing... there it was, all ground up into a powder. I guess that was all the noise when the pin sheared.

Thanks again for the post.