Steering question

Me too. I had a technician from Pocket Yachts out last week to replace a leaky engine hatch strut (defective from the factory), and I mentioned that the boat pulled to the left. He asked if we could go out for a sea trial, and sure enough the problem showed up. Not even a little surprised, he closed off the isolation screws on the pump and the problem went away. New pump from the factory is on the way. Definitely not an isolated problem with these boats.

I think my point here is that Garmin is still supplying defective pumps. FWIW my boat is a 2020 model, #2 in the production run, built about two months ago.
 
I might have to bleed the system, what type of hydraulic fluid do I need ?
 
Here we go again. I brought the boat home yesterday from an appointment at Pocket Yachts to replace a defective bilge pump, and mentioned that the autopilot was acting strangely... it was steering a minor zig-zag course in fairly rapid cycles. I had a rudder position indicator installed last year, and it was amusing to watch the indicator move left and right... visual confirmation of what the rudder was doing. The technician updated the software, and I performed the calibration on the way home. That cured the zig-zag issue.

About an hour later and closer to home (thank goodness) the boat (autopilot off) started to pull to the left, requiring constant helm correction to starboard... just like the first time the unit failed. As time passed it required progressively more correction to maintain a straight course, and turning to starboard became very difficult. I'm sure this is another failure of the check valve in the pump (my second). Waiting now for a reply from PY about the issue.

Last time the pump was replaced I strongly requested an upgraded pump (to avoid dealing with this problem again), and offered to pay the up charge. I was dissuaded from doing that by PY.

I shouldn't have two autopilot failures in 80 hours of operation. FWIW I bought this boat to cruise down the ICW, and can't imagine how inconvenient (and potentially dangerous) these failures could be on that trip. I'm hoping for a permanent fix so I can make the trip this fall.
 
My boat (I have an R31) is currently on the hard for winter, tho about to go back in.. and during cleaning / maintenance/ zincs / painting.. i wondered... Has anyone else ever noticed that the rudder is actually slightly to the right of centerline
( didn't measure... but sitting in the comfort of my home right now.. guessing about an inch ) ?? When I saw this, I walked around the marina, and many other (brands and types) of boats were the same !! Probably has to do with removing/ installing the prop on a boat with a short shaft where the propellor hub is close to the rudder... not sure...
So.... is this part of the "perceived steering issue" ???
just wonderin'....
Pete S.
 
Has anyone tried installing the check valve kit, offered by Garmin, to correct this problem? The Garmin tech suggested this to solve the issue with the pump overload. I just ordered one and will install it once I receive it.
I have already installed tee fittings and it worked for approximately 30 hours but I lost steering when entering a VERY busy inlet, (Naples, FL), on a Sunday afternoon returning from the Keys. Don't want that to happen ever again. Turned in the 3 lock out screws and went back to normal manual steering again.
Does anyone have any thoughts about a check valve solving this problem?
Thanks for any feedback on this matter.
 
We had planned to install check valves during recent haulout ... but the boatyard said the wrong parts arrived. Then they called RT who strongly advised upgrading to SmartPump instead (in which case, RT, why not install it ...?)
 
We had the check valve installed in late summer last year, and the difference is incredible. Boat will hold its line in chop and speed with barely any wheel correction. Best fix we have done to her!
 
We too had the check valve installed last summer. Holds a perfectly straight line with equal resistance steering in both directions. Amazing difference.
 
Anyone have the part number for the check valve kit? Thanks!
 
010-11203-10

I think you'll also need some additional fitting to make it work - this part number is just for the box itself.
 
I just replaced the autopilot pump. There is also an adaptor that sits in front of the pump that relates to whether or not your hydrolic arm is “balanced”. Mine was not, I bought the unit for correction-and installed it. I also modified how the pump was plumbed to the boat as per Garmins diagrams. I kept the old head and installed it on the new pump so I did not have to go through a gratuitous dance switching out the new different threaded fittings. I tried to bleed the pump myself- pay some boat yard to do it with their automatic machine and save yourself some grief. Should fall under the hour minimum most boat yards charge. Yes they changed how the electronics attaches with cords to a new pump as noted earlier. You think they would include that in specs to whoever makes this stuff for them as they are such a large player

Result- the pump now works as it should have. The part that changed how the boat performed do to unbalanced cylinder made a huge difference in the incremental changes the pump needs to make to keep its course. A black Mark for Fluid motion to not ship this part on the pump in the first place if it existed at time of manufacture. In my opinion Fluid motion should be providing this part gratis.
 
Thank you for the positive responses regarding the check valve. I just received it and need to get to a hydraulic supply store to get the additional parts needed for installation.
I was surprised Garmin didn't bring this solution up until I asked them a direct question regarding the need for it. I learned about it from my brother who owns a large machining company in Michigan. When I talked to him about the issues people were having with the autopilot pumps he said he thought the pumps were being overloaded and a check valve may help with this issue. He has been designing and building custom manufacturing machinery for the auto, aeronautics, pharmaceutical and multiple other industries for 50+ years and has used check values in multiple designs.
I hope this solves the problem as I'm tired of buying pumps and spending hours installing them and bleeding the system. I'm getting too old for this!
I will post my results when I get the valve installed.
 
Finally got the right hydraulic parts and lines and installed the check valve. After a limited amount of use, (3 short trips), everything seems to work well! No loss of steering, autopilot works well and no leaks. The worst part of the install was the placement/mounting and, of course, bleeding the system. I did use a syringe to fill the lines, connectors and check valve which did help in the bleeding process. Will post pics when I get back to the boat with a phone that's not dead and a back that stops aching!
 
I am also having a steering issue on my C28. Can anyone tell me where the auto pilot pump is located? I would like to do the AP lockout test to verify that the AP pump is the problem.
Bill Gaertner
 
Bill, It's in the right, starboard, rear floor locker between the batteries and the hot water heater. Hope this helps!
Terry
 
Terry,
I found the pump and closed the valves. However, my pump only has two brass valve screws. The Garmin manual and comments from others indicate that there should be three screws. I have three hydraulic lines connected to the pump, so my thinking is that there should be three shut off screws. Any ideas?

Bill
 
Gypsy, does your pump look like this:
 
This has been an issue sense 2015. It is the autopilot pump. We are on our third. Yes, you must check your hydrolic level regularly. However, talk to Flued Motion (Ranger Tugs/ Cutwater Boats). Garmin just jerks you around.
 
Sorry Bill, I was out for a day.
There are three screws but one of them is very difficult to see. I just about had to stand on my head to get to it but found it by feel mostly. Once all are turned off, (in), the manual steering should be normal. I hope this helps!
Terry
 
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