Starlink Mini

pdo

pdo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
82
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
Selah
Is anyone using a Starlink Mini on a Cutwater C-288, and if so where did you locate it, how do you power it, and how did you run the power cord from the disk to the power source? Thanks
 
Hi
I am trying to do the same, install a mini Starlink on the mast of a Cutwater 28. I would love to know the path used to run the Starlink Mini Power Cable. What panels removed to run it from the mast down into the cabin and forward to the fuse box behind the mirror in the head. Thanks in advance!
 
We have just had our Mini for a couple of months and I am keeping it pretty simple for now. I keep the hardware in a dedicated backpack that I take to the boat when we cruise. I mount the Mini on a pole that goes into a rod holder mounted to my swim step railing and power it up via a 12-volt outlet in the cockpit. I don't leave this set up while underway, but it only takes a few minutes to get it up and going once we are stationary and want service. I plan to fine tune my pole-mounting setup a bit, but for now I am keeping it portable, as I also use the Mini at our Montana cabin property. Check out Seaviewglobal.com for their Mini mounting hardware options.
 
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If you are not doing video meetings or streaming we have purchased suction cups with straps from Amazon and mount it inside, in a skylight roof window, on our R27OB. it is not aligned but lets us email just fine. All of the components are inside the cabin. Easy to setup at the beginning of a trip.
 
Running the mini from 12V is a bit iffy unless the power cable is real short. In our R27 Classic I added a 12v to 36V DC to DC converter (small and cheap on Amazon). Took power from a downrigger receptacle I don’t use and added a barrel jack that fits the standard Starlink plug. Cable runs up the Bimini frame to the mini Starlink in a rod holder. Antenna sits just above the Bimini. Works perfect!
 
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I have my mini mounted to the cabin roof on the port side of the mast. The mast does not seem to adversely affect the signal. I initially had power problems, but solved them by replacing the stock cable with a larger gage wire for most of the run. I am using the spare switch on the helm to power it. It seems very stable now.

View media item 82923
 
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I have sorted out the run for the power cable from the Starlink Mini mounted on the mast into the cabin to a 12V power source. Thank you for all your suggestions. I took down the center wood trim with the cabin lighting. The trick is to make scaffolding by cutting 3 light weight 1 x 4 boards to the width of the cabin about 72" (measure from top of trim on each side across above curtains). Mount them across the cabin in thirds to support the center wood trim when you bring it down. Also, remove the angled wood trim between the windows alongside the seat that opens to the cave on the Starboard side. I then fished from the mask down into the center of the cabin the power line. I Again, then fished from the center to the Starboard side. From there, you can run the line down the starboard side where you removed the panel and then fished it aft behind the 120VAC control panel. Found a 12VDC open line. Connected the 12VDC to 36VDC converter from Amazon with a Mini Starlink female connector. Done! I am going to trace that open 12VDC line to the fuse it is using and add a switch to turn off the Starlink Mini when not in use.
 
What size fuse should be used with Starlink mini using 12 v power?
 
The specs say it uses 60 watts max. So I think a fuse that can handle 100 watts would be fine, so at 12v you need an 8 or 10 amp fuse. Remember it won't run properly at 12v. You need to do a dc/dc converter up to 24v or 36v.
 
Ours is plugged in to the cigarette outlet on the command bridge. Runs no problem off that. if the cord is 10 ft and heavy guage I would try that first before bothering stepping the voltage up.

Also keeping it portable allowed us to take it in the truck on a trip in the back country and it proved useful to have when we were out of cellphone coverage for a week. In the truck it fits between the sunroof and sunshade with the cord dangling down to the cigarette lighter.
 
I’ve ordered a peakdo battery that is supposed to run the mini for at least 4hrs on a charge and I plan to order the mini mounting kit from Veritas Vans that will suction mount the mini without concern - I’ll probably put it on top of the grill cover (people mount them on vans and travel on highways for weeks). I plan to recharge via Bluetti.

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SKing said:
Ours is plugged in to the cigarette outlet on the command bridge. Runs no problem off that. if the cord is 10 ft and heavy guage I would try that first before bothering stepping the voltage up.

Also keeping it portable allowed us to take it in the truck on a trip in the back country and it proved useful to have when we were out of cellphone coverage for a week. In the truck it fits between the sunroof and sunshade with the cord dangling down to the cigarette lighter.
Click to expand...
Yes, most high output usb-C cigarette lighter power adapters will run it. I believe the voltage on those is 20v. It also works great plugged directly into my Ecoflow high output receptacle.
 
venajeff said:
Yes, most high output usb-C cigarette lighter power adapters will run it. I believe the voltage on those is 20v. It also works great plugged directly into my Ecoflow high output receptacle.
Click to expand...
This was a pre-made cigarette lighter cord from starlink...., whether they have a built-in booster or not I do not know.1000033947.jpg
 
I’m not a big fan of using cigarette lighter type adapters for permanent wiring. Especially in the weather on the bridge. I’m going to try this: https://a.co/d/9p1eFbW

I’ll wire it to the fuse block on the bridge and use a 10a fuse. I think I’ll put a switch in the circuit to turn it off when not in use.

I’m not an expert in this, this is just my solution. We’ll see what happens.

Thank you all for your help!
 
I can't picture it, but where is the fuse block on the upper bridge? Asking as this device has a fairly short power cord - otherwise, looks great. Thanks.
 
My Mini mounted on the cross-roof rails. For now powered by inverter, considered a step-up DC setup (did that with prior KVH LTE setup) but I'm chronically short of overnight battery power on my older C26. Cheapest quick solution is a $269 Ecoflow River III devoted to Starlink/router/RogueWave power; easy to charge on shorepower or from inverter while cruising; takes the load off batteries at anchor. Also looking at the 800 watt River II pro, would take the microwave (chronic coffee-rewarming) out of the overnight loop as well.

Starlink Mini: incredible performance, highly recommended.

/diatom
 
jacrider said:
I can't picture it, but where is the fuse block on the upper bridge? Asking as this device has a fairly short power cord - otherwise, looks great. Thanks.
Click to expand...
There are many versions of this available on Amazon. I chose to use one without a cable at all and just wired it to a panel mount barrel jack that would accept the standard Starlink connector. Here’s one with a socket included that you can plug the standard cable into.

Curt

Starlink Mini 12V Adapter Power Cable, 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A DC Step Up Converter for Starlink Mini Power Supply with Female Plug, Compatible with Battery/RV/Yacht Off-Grid Power Solution https://a.co/d/dMIGH70
 
jacrider said:
I can't picture it, but where is the fuse block on the upper bridge? Asking as this device has a fairly short power cord - otherwise, looks great. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hi jacrider, I found it under the helm and just a bit toward the port side. There are two prewires. One marked “Outlet” and one marked “Spare.” Not sure at this point how long those wires are, but I will probably need to replace one and a ground with longer wires.
 
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