Yanmar 4BY2 Impeller Replacement on 2009 R25

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Gil, I don't think the Speedseal concept will work on the 4BY2 - there is no pump cover, just a spinning impeller, some bearings and seals, and a cover.

I was looking for a run dry impeller to see if it would last longer - impeller changing is no fun in a tight space.

Thanks /Stu
 
Several years ago I searched for a "run dry" impeller for the 4by engine. At that time, such an animal did not exist. I also question if the "O" ring seal needs to be replaced each time the impeller is changed. I inspect mine using a magnifying glass. If it doesn't look deformed or damaged, I reuse it. That being said, do so at your own risk.
 
There is a replacement run dry, but I am not sure if the additional cost is worth it. I can't find information indicating how much longer they may last. If I have to go in and check it, I'm replacing it, so why pay more.
 
I replaced the raw water impeller on my 4BY2 in about an hour (with a second set of smaller hands to get the "O" ring in place.

The new impeller is a Globe #100 Model Number P/N 01-12-1060.

Amazon has them back in stock for about $56. It comes well lubricated in a bubble pack marked "Run" and is pre-"greased" for easier insertion. It is also packed with a full set of gaskets and "O" rings for various pumps. The material is much more flexible than the Johnson original and is a lovely blue color.

Replacement on my 2010/2011 R-25 classic takes about an hour, many band aids, and several new words. The new impeller was followed by new exhaust hose and a new Vetus NLP-90 muffler. After installing the muffler, I learned that Vetus now makes a NLP-90 HD that is stocked by Defender, about $200 more, and withstands over 500 degrees without damage.

All the time I was curious why Ranger did not specify the engine with a manifold temperature sensor (standard option on Yanmar engines) or an after market raw water flow/temperature gauge (about $100). Seems a fair question for a high end boat builder.
 
Could not find that impeller listed on Amazon.

However, Globe Composite, the parent company of Globe Marine, seems to be selling them directly on eBay for $36.25 each. The description of the eBay item says they include the gaskets and O rings. The city address for shipping of the eBay item matches the address for Globe Composite.

Same part number on the box as described above - Model 100 01-12-1060.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151066648607?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
 
It pays to shop around. When I was looking for the Globe impeller for my Yanmar 3YM engine I noticed a very wide range in pricing for the same part.

dave
 
SGIDAVE":3d6ocy3f said:
It pays to shop around. When I was looking for the Globe impeller for my Yanmar 3YM engine I noticed a very wide range in pricing for the same part.

dave

S&H and taxes can make the difference as well. 🙂
 
I just replaced the impeller on my 2010 R25 4by150. It took me a little over four hours as it was the first time I did this but it was the third time the impeller has been changed on this boat. I hired a pro earlier.

The big time hang up for me was removing the fourth bolt as it was rusted and the allen head was somewhat rounded/smeared so when I got a 6mm allen wrench in the head it simply spun around. What I did to get it was get a long 6mm allen wrench and cut off the end with a Dremel tool so I had one long straight tool. I left the burr on the end. I placed the burred end in the bolt head and tapped it in. Using a 6mm socket I was able to get it out.

Two questions:
1. I replaced the bolt with a ss bolt that was a little longer. Is there a place to get the exact replacement? I believe it is m8 x 1.25 x 12mm.

2. How often do you change impellers? The last two were changed at 2 years ( roughly 300 hours each) and both looked perfect. Is this over kill? I put in the "run dry" blue impeller this time which is supposed to be good for five years. This is a bear of a job on the R25 Classic and I do not want to do it unnecessarily.
 
You did well replacing the impeller in 4 hrs IMO. Given that lower bolt is subject to rust I would check them every so often. To get the correct size remove one of the easy-to-remove bolts and charge down to your local HW store and get several to cover you if ever you lose one to the dark bilge below one day in future.
 
When I replaced the impeller in my 4BY2, I found the muffler and one hose damaged - replaced them also. The entire job took about a day.

I put some anti-seize on the bolts so they are less likely to run.

I'm also installing a manifold overheat detector and a flow detecter so the next impeller failure will not endanger the muffler or the exhaust system.

I found the engine controls on the 4BY2 include an option to monitor the exhaust water flow - but this is not enabled on my engine. I'm trying to find out how to enable the function so I don't have to run extra wires and cut a hole in the dash for the additional instrument.

Do the new boats with Volvo engines include an instrument to monitor flow and overheat.

Unfortunately, it is a game of chance to pick up some crap in the water inlet for a few minutes and damage the impeller or exhaust - it would be nice if this possible fault were monitored on the engine as it is on the generatorl
 
Yanmar periodic maintenance says to inspect the impeller every 250 hours. Once I inspect I may as well put in the new one because i am three quarters there. I can do mine in less than 1.5 hours. As posted earlier I use anti-seize on the bolts. I did have to replace the lower starboard bolt and also used a SS, slightly longer. As long as it isn't too long I can't see the length being an issue since it is threaded through the housing. I would debate the 5 year statement on the run dry. I think number of hours is a better requisite. In five years I could run 1,000 hours. The other thing is if I were to run dry I would be opening up the pump to examine the impeller anyway and here we go, I just did 3/4 of the job, should I put in an old impeller? Hence I am sticking with the standard impeller and changing it every 250 hours. FOR SALE - GOOD USED IMPELLERS. :lol:
 
Another thing to do after replacing the impeller if boat used in or is in salt water, is to wash the impeller pump area with fresh water after the job's been completed to avoid rusting issues on the surrounding engine areas. BTW... This was a tip provided to me by Jim Favors.

Also, always make sure the pulley belt is engaging ALL of the pulley grooves when re-installing.
 
In response to Rodeo

Changing the impeller on a Cummins powered R25 is done from the cockpit - by me at least. Now on my third reincarnation for this task.
Either on your belly over the open hatch or draped across the engine with your head and shoulders turned 90 degrees alongside the engine.
1. Be aware the impeller and housing combination is a bit too big for the small size impeller puller where the impeller diameter spreads the jaws so far they will not hook the back of the impeller.
2. And it is a bit small for the next size larger impeller puller where the jaws will hit the inside of the housing and be squeezed down too far before they can hook the impeller - as you are futilely pushing and mumbling in tongues.
I recognize that 1 and 2 mean nothing to anyone who has not attempted to get the impeller tool onto an R25 Cummins impeller - for those who have you know what I'm talking about.
If your impeller shaft was lubricated with silicone by the last victim, errr person, who changed it you may be able to easily slip it out by simply grabbing a vane with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull.
If not just be comforted by the thought that there has been a lot of cursing of the factory over the limited access so you are in good company :mrgreen:
Having a shop with metal working machinery I manufactured a new set of jaws for my impeller tool that properly fit the impeller/housing on the Cummins QSD2. I recognize that most owners don't have this luxury. While at the SW-FL rendezvous it is available to use for those in need.
 
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